For a fuel pump on a 1997 S-10 four banger?
CK5
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800 bucks?
- Thread starter justhorsinaround
- Start date
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
um...... HELL NO
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
That's about 1/3 of the trade-in value for the truck! The pumps cost about $300 off the shelf, and I think you have to drop the tank to replace the pump, so they might be quoting an installed price with some hefty markup on the pump and a massive labor charge or something. Way too much money.
Yea I didn't think so either so I called the dealership. The shop that we towed the truck to wants a grand to replace the pump. I'm thinkin they thought saw a sucker in front of them.
ramses
1/2 ton status
Probably around $300 for the pump, labor shouldnt be any higher than $300, closer to $200 I think. I know we usually charge $200 for a fuel pump when you have to drop the tank. Expect to pay between $500 and $600 though.
We're just gonna have it towed to the house (Thank you AAA) and I'll do it. I have an engine hoist/cherry picker and the guy at one of the local dealerships is cutting me a deal for the module thingy. Still gonna have to pay the shop for the diagnosis though.
dont let them hit you for more than 1 hr time on diagnostic time. it dont take that long unless its a wiring problem.
CrewCab59
1/2 ton status
9 out of ten times if you hit the fuel tank with a rubber tiped hammer and have some one start it ,most can be restarted again. Gm has bad fuel pumps,we had to due that to most of our service trucks,vans.
yup--expensive!!
My friend who runs his own garage just got a 97 S10 with a four banger,about a month ago--its former owner,a steady customer of his for years,said "you can have it--the clutch is blown,and its all dented,and the gas gauge doesn't work--I aint dumping any more money into it!....
...well,the "blown" clutch was an empty clutch master cylinder,(we told the guy to make sure it was full--he looked at the brake master cylinder!-never saw the clutch master!..
)---the bed had 99% of the dents,(my friend found a identical bed the same color ,for 200 bucks with a bedliner,at a nearby boneyard,lucky stiff)--and since the bed had to come off anyway,the fuel pump and sending unit is accessable without pulling off the tank--so he decides to do it before we bolt the new bed on....
He calls around,and the lowest price he can get with his discount is 260 bucks..many places quoted 400,360,and 320 bucks!--just for the fuel pump !-because the gas tank sending unit is built into it,and as far as we know cannot be removed separately!..gotcha!!!!..its just like the sending units on the 90's GM's that rusted away in 5 years here,and cost 400 bucks just for the sending unit--dealer only item in most cases, IF they even still list them!..another ripoff....
WHY cant the fuel pump be mounted OUTSIDE of the tank,and the sending unit be like the ones on older cars???--so repair shops can gouge unwitting customers,and so mechanics can suffer more I guess..
.....only good thing about pulling the tank is the free gas we get!--we always tell the customer NOT to fill up before bringing the vehicle in,but they almost NEVER do!..so we have to siphon it out, so we can get the tank out without having to bench press 100 lbs of gas...most of the customers just say to keep the gas,because all we have is dirty 5 gallon pails and old gas cans to put it in,rather than risk getting dirt put back in the tank.....
My friend who runs his own garage just got a 97 S10 with a four banger,about a month ago--its former owner,a steady customer of his for years,said "you can have it--the clutch is blown,and its all dented,and the gas gauge doesn't work--I aint dumping any more money into it!....
...well,the "blown" clutch was an empty clutch master cylinder,(we told the guy to make sure it was full--he looked at the brake master cylinder!-never saw the clutch master!..
)---the bed had 99% of the dents,(my friend found a identical bed the same color ,for 200 bucks with a bedliner,at a nearby boneyard,lucky stiff)--and since the bed had to come off anyway,the fuel pump and sending unit is accessable without pulling off the tank--so he decides to do it before we bolt the new bed on....He calls around,and the lowest price he can get with his discount is 260 bucks..many places quoted 400,360,and 320 bucks!--just for the fuel pump !-because the gas tank sending unit is built into it,and as far as we know cannot be removed separately!..gotcha!!!!..its just like the sending units on the 90's GM's that rusted away in 5 years here,and cost 400 bucks just for the sending unit--dealer only item in most cases, IF they even still list them!..another ripoff....
WHY cant the fuel pump be mounted OUTSIDE of the tank,and the sending unit be like the ones on older cars???--so repair shops can gouge unwitting customers,and so mechanics can suffer more I guess..
.....only good thing about pulling the tank is the free gas we get!--we always tell the customer NOT to fill up before bringing the vehicle in,but they almost NEVER do!..so we have to siphon it out, so we can get the tank out without having to bench press 100 lbs of gas...most of the customers just say to keep the gas,because all we have is dirty 5 gallon pails and old gas cans to put it in,rather than risk getting dirt put back in the tank.....
So the tow truck driver pulls up to the truck and asks what's wrong. I tell him. He doesn't grab a mallet he just dives under the truck and starts bangin on the tank with his fist. Not only did it start and get me home but started four or five times in the driveway. Course I'm still gonna replace the suspect part for not only is not only did the pump go out on me but the gauge hasn't worked in something around 4 years.
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
I think that another fair question regarding many similar vehicles is this:
Why isn't there a removable access plate in the floor, directly above the fuel pump/sender? Back out a dozen bolts, pull a plate and gasket, and there's the top of the tank.
Many vehicles are definitely not designed for speedy servicing (but that would mean less dealer labor time to be reimbursed under warranty, wouldn't it).
Why isn't there a removable access plate in the floor, directly above the fuel pump/sender? Back out a dozen bolts, pull a plate and gasket, and there's the top of the tank.
Many vehicles are definitely not designed for speedy servicing (but that would mean less dealer labor time to be reimbursed under warranty, wouldn't it).
ramses
1/2 ton status
Some cars do have a removable plate to get to the pump, but ive never seen a truck with one. Yes the free gas siphoned from the tank is another perk of a fuel pump job. Beating on one works about half the time ive seen, a lot of times when they take one off the tow truck it will start because its been shaken around on the ride there.
Only cars I've seen with a access plate is a VW Jetta,and an Audi,though I'm sure a few others do too (probably foriegn cars I bet!)...
I see no good reason why they had to put the pumps IN the tank,other than perhaps they run cooler submerged,but I never liked the idea of a running electric motor being submerged in gasoline!..how the hell it dont blow up is beyond me!..(maybe there isn't enough air in the tank??)...
We use the fist or mallet treatment too,but only about 1 out of 6 vehicles with "dead" fuel pumps come back to life after a beating for us...we usually have to push the dead horse into the stall and onto the lift..
Dont make a 200+ dollar mistake!!---
I've learned to thouroghly check ALL the fuses,the wiring harness to the pump,(especially the plug near the tank,it often gets gangrene and causes a poor connection that somtimes kills power to the pump)..also ground wires,and the safety switch that kills power to the pump if the car gets hit.....more than once my friend assumed it was a bad pump,so he just orders one and installs it...and after 2 hours of ass busting,it still wont start!..
I found a blown fuel pump fuse on one car, ,and another car must have gotten hit while it was parked at the mall--the fuel pump safety switch in the trunk was tripped!... ..oops!!...oh well,the pump had 100,000 miles on it--it was junk,right??..
I see no good reason why they had to put the pumps IN the tank,other than perhaps they run cooler submerged,but I never liked the idea of a running electric motor being submerged in gasoline!..how the hell it dont blow up is beyond me!..(maybe there isn't enough air in the tank??)...
We use the fist or mallet treatment too,but only about 1 out of 6 vehicles with "dead" fuel pumps come back to life after a beating for us...we usually have to push the dead horse into the stall and onto the lift..
Dont make a 200+ dollar mistake!!---
I've learned to thouroghly check ALL the fuses,the wiring harness to the pump,(especially the plug near the tank,it often gets gangrene and causes a poor connection that somtimes kills power to the pump)..also ground wires,and the safety switch that kills power to the pump if the car gets hit.....more than once my friend assumed it was a bad pump,so he just orders one and installs it...and after 2 hours of ass busting,it still wont start!..
I found a blown fuel pump fuse on one car,
,and another car must have gotten hit while it was parked at the mall--the fuel pump safety switch in the trunk was tripped!... ..oops!!...oh well,the pump had 100,000 miles on it--it was junk,right??..
randy88k5
1/2 ton status
ramses said:
I had to replace one on my friends 90 Toyota 4Runner. It had an access plate under the rear seat. And it also had a nice fuel tank drain plug.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Man... something must have seriously changed between '93 and '97. I changed the pump on my brother's '93 S-10 with the 4.3L and it was only like $35 for the pump and another $108 for the sending unit.
Oh, and I cut a hole in the bed to change it.
Fyi... www.rockauto.com has your pump for $245 plus the ride.
They recommend you change the wiring harness, too. That's another $8.
Oh, and I cut a hole in the bed to change it.
Fyi... www.rockauto.com has your pump for $245 plus the ride.
They recommend you change the wiring harness, too. That's another $8.
