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80s Blazer Reliability

I daily drove my 85 blazer through college. I was commuting an hour drive each way 4 days a week. It was the most stressful part of owning that truck. I bought it as a clean ready to go driver with a new trans. I had to do everything on it. Even another trans. At any time I was ready and equipped to tear it down. I hard mounted a tool box against the tailgate. I had to be able to do any repair at any time.
Thank god for ck5 and tech support. I'd have to limp it to school and hit up the library and use a computer there lol. It's never going to be convenient. But I loved every minute of it.
 
Cot damnn. Gas is 4 bucks where I live. 4.60 at the high price gas stations. $5 in fancy neighborhoods.

It's even $4 in Mexico. Where the hell do you live that is 2.50??
Yeah, you guys get screwed on gas. I am in WY so lots cheaper but wages are lower (no state tax) so no real savings in the end. When I got my first square gas was $0.99, I drove it across the country 3 times, NP203 and 36" tires.
to the original poster, the mechanical engineering student with the 7K budget, I would absolutely get a $3000 k5, and save 3k for surprises.

I would also put full coverage insurance. I had three cars stolen during my five years of college.
I would also buy one with a bit of extra cash for expenses. The good ones are getting harder to find. Get a stock one that nobody has messed with and then mess it up yourself. The experience is invaluable.
 
Hey guys I’m new here and am looking to buy a K5 Blazer, obviously. I’m sure this subject has been touched upon before but I haven’t been able to find specific enough answers. I currently have a very reliable car, but I’ve been in love with the K5 for as long as I can remember and desperately want a car that I can work on myself.

My worry though is switching from my current car to a much older one and having it be a money suck as I’m a broke college student. My budget would be about $7,000 and I’ve heard that that amount should get a pretty clean daily driver, but again I’m looking for some more specific input than that.

For reference, I am a mechanical engineering major and consider myself very capable with tools and such, about as capable as one could be without having any experience working on cars specifically, however whether or not I could, I probably will not have time in the foreseeable future to fix major issues (rebuilding transmission for example).

Sorry for all the info but my QUESTION is I’d love to hear from anyone who daily drives their Blazer. What has gone wrong with it over the years? How much money have you HAD to put into it to keep it on the road for such repairs?

I’m mainly just trying to figure out what sort of financial risk I would actually be taking on, because I REALLY want to get one, but not if that means I have to move back in with my parents because I put all my savings into my car. THANKS!
I will add my voice to the 2 car scenario.
When you are in college you can't have no backup.
I even say the car you have now can break down, you need to have backup.
If you can afford a $3-4000 k5 while keeping your car go for it, if not then just wait
 
For a 4x4 truck/suv the old square bodies are among the cheapest and easiest to maintain in my experience. And I'll 3rd the backup vehicle regardless of what vehicle you have.

A 6.2 powered k5 will get low-mid 20's for fuel economy with good torque down low BUT you have to learn those engines. Most shops won't touch a old mechanically injected engine anymore and here in the US diesel isn't nearly as well known. On the plus side, the old diesel's run well on filtered waste oils/old diesel/veggy oil which keeps the fuel costs down.
 
Everyone else has said what I was going to say, get the cleanest un-****ed-with 87-91 you can find and make sure it’s all in good shape.

I wouldn’t daily one myself unless I knew for a fact what was good and what was probably going to go bad in the future. That’s going to be hard to do but not impossible.
 
Great info guys super helpful
Now because I do have multiple vehicles I had no problem daily driving my suburban for years and the few times that I had minor issues I was able to deal with them on the run.
I did lose air conditioning at one point so I stopped using in the summer except when I needed the bigger truck.
I have a very reliable and fuel miser 2003 Honda civic and I prefer driving the suburban or the Jimmy
 
Hey guys I’m new here and am looking to buy a K5 Blazer, obviously. I’m sure this subject has been touched upon before but I haven’t been able to find specific enough answers. I currently have a very reliable car, but I’ve been in love with the K5 for as long as I can remember and desperately want a car that I can work on myself.

My worry though is switching from my current car to a much older one and having it be a money suck as I’m a broke college student. My budget would be about $7,000 and I’ve heard that that amount should get a pretty clean daily driver, but again I’m looking for some more specific input than that.

For reference, I am a mechanical engineering major and consider myself very capable with tools and such, about as capable as one could be without having any experience working on cars specifically, however whether or not I could, I probably will not have time in the foreseeable future to fix major issues (rebuilding transmission for example).

Sorry for all the info but my QUESTION is I’d love to hear from anyone who daily drives their Blazer. What has gone wrong with it over the years? How much money have you HAD to put into it to keep it on the road for such repairs?

I’m mainly just trying to figure out what sort of financial risk I would actually be taking on, because I REALLY want to get one, but not if that means I have to move back in with my parents because I put all my savings into my car. THANKS!


How far is your commute?
 
Same here......Get an 87-91 because it's fuel injected and IMO the best of both worlds. When it's tuned right it will run for a long time.

Plus you get all the support on here if you have any problems regardless if it's carburated or fuel injected.
 
Actually on that note, what are the main differences btw a fuel injected engine and one with a carb other than the fact that fuel injected engines run better? I was leaning toward pre 87 engines because I figured one with a carb would be simpler and easier to learn/work on for someone with less experience? Or are both just simple enough that the added performance of fuel injection is worth it?
 
Actually on that note, what are the main differences btw a fuel injected engine and one with a carb other than the fact that fuel injected engines run better? I was leaning toward pre 87 engines because I figured one with a carb would be simpler and easier to learn/work on for someone with less experience? Or are both just simple enough that the added performance of fuel injection is worth it?
Neither were barn burners in stock form. Other than the electronic fuel injection, the only other major difference is the use of the electric fuel pump
 
If you like carburetors, then you won't have to deal with an ECM. Just tune it up with plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.....and keep carb in top running condition.
If you prefer fuel injection, which is the newer technology over carbs, then you get to learn about the ECM, sensors, data logging etc.
It really depends on what route you want to go. It makes no difference to me or some others on this site as to which way to go. Myself, I prefer the TBI over carburetors. I learned about my K5 when I bought it. I had no clue about fuel injection until I joined this site. The brotherhood here helped me with any question I had. And now I won't go back to a carburetor. But there is nothing wrong if you decide to stay with a carbureted set up.
If you have any questions, as you have seen, just ask. We are glad to help.
 
Yea seems like a really great community here! I mean honestly carb or no carb having a fully removable hard top would be sweeeet. Anyone have any sort of ballpark how much more expensive a 73-75 would be compared to a 76+ of comparable condition? Obviously they are more rare and since they’re older harder to find in as good condition so I’m curious how that translates to price... like an extra $3-4k?
 
Yea seems like a really great community here! I mean honestly carb or no carb having a fully removable hard top would be sweeeet. Anyone have any sort of ballpark how much more expensive a 73-75 would be compared to a 76+ of comparable condition? Obviously they are more rare and since they’re older harder to find in as good condition so I’m curious how that translates to price... like an extra $3-4k?
Price varies as much by region as by condition really
 
All I can say is I daily drove one K5 I had 65 miles each way to work and back for a good 6 months ,till I found an apartment close to work..then I bought others and split the drive time between them for another 2 years..

I had a '72 K5 that I bought well used for $1800 ,it had some rot on the floors and tub,but not extensive,I patched it up and over the course of driving it I eventually had to replace the u-joints and wheel bearings,nit until I put a good 15,000 on the originals though..

It's biggest "issue" was its TH350 refused to go in forward gears until the engine was warmed up 5 minutes or so..after that you could drive it 500 miles and it'd shift fine,no slippage..but the next morning,back to square one..

The engine was the original 350 ,4 bolt main,the owner replaced the cam with a Crane mild grind for low end torque,that engine always ran strong,and when I first got it,someone had put a 283 intake and the dinky 2 bbl carb on it..

I thought ditching that for a 4 bbl aluminum intake & Carter AFB was an upgrade,but in reality I felt it had more low end pulling power with the 2 bbl..after I put an SM 465 in place of the TH350,(after driving it like it was for almost 2 years with no decline!)--it had to be downshifted into third on hills I formerly climbed in 4th !..

I tried a Q-jet and it was slightly better,but no big improvement..
Had I not sold that 2 bbl setup,I'd have put it back on..it was hilly where I worked and lots of steep ones--with 3:08 gears it needed all the pulling power you could get..it got about 12-14 mpg no matter what carb was on it or how I drove..

Only other thing I did to that engine was put an HEI ignition distributor ,that made it run smoother and then I had no points to deal with,but I drove it a long time with points too, and never had any issues..

I carried a spare ignition module with me,one would croak once in a while for no apparent reason..
I started carrying a spare HEI distributor "just in case" but do not recall ever having to install it on the side of the road..

I had a '75 K5 that was 2WD,with a 250 six and a three speed manual--drove that one to work in the summer mostly,and I put at least 10,000 miles on it before the camshaft gear that was fiber decided to shed its teeth about 5 miles from home on my way home from NH ,a 100+ mile ride..that was the only major malfunction .
It already had over 150,000 when I bought it..

I decided to put a 307 V8 in it I had rather than fix the six,it was not powerful enough and had a lousy 1 bbl that surged and an intergral cylinder head,those sixes were not like the better earlier 250's..
They were just as rugged,but they ran weird and pinged a lot..

I'd say older GM truck are reliable as any other ,and probably better than most of the rest,parts were common & cheap,they were very forgiving,and overall I do not recall getting stranded in any of them,despite the number of hours and miles I put on them...not to say I didn't have to limp home several times,or replace a belt or hose that failed "on the road".but that was more my fault that the truck's for not replacing them sooner..
Maybe I'm just lucky but once I got the carbs dialed in I never had any problems with flooding,etc on the road..we had better gas then too,carbs don't like todays gas so much..

That was all we had back in the 80's to drive..we may not have had overdrive,but we got there and back,and the real beauty of an old truck is YOU can fix it,they are a lot simpler than newer EFI computer controlled vehicles.
There is more room under the hood,the only "disadvantage" in my opinion is they don't have all the safety features as newer vehicles,but since most of the air bags either are defective and on a recall or just fail to deploy half the time on many newer vehicles,maybe thats no big deal..a heavy old truck has the weight advantage over a lighter SUV ...
 
Honestly no clue... right now I have no commute to school. But I drive from LA to the Bay Area and back a few times a year. Next summer i have no idea what sort of commute I’ll have or where I’ll live and same goes for after graduation in two years.
 
Given the uncertainty, i would hold off until you are settled. If you end up somewhere where you cant have 2 vehicles, then it will pain you to sell the truck you just fell in love with.
 
Honestly no clue... right now I have no commute to school. But I drive from LA to the Bay Area and back a few times a year. Next summer i have no idea what sort of commute I’ll have or where I’ll live and same goes for after graduation in two years.
So is college in Los Angeles or bay area?
I am guessing Los Angeles since you come up and back to it
 
Yep but I am planning on living wherever work takes me for at least a couple years after college. As an engineer interested in automotive/aerospace stuff the most that probably means the midwest, Texas, or CA but who knows.
 

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