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CK5
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82 K5 once was someone's mud toy.
- Thread starter cyrwu
- Start date
First truck ever. Trying to bring it back to life.
one day... an index.
Step 1: Mechanical. Get it running and driving with no hiccups.
Step 2: Interior. Make it enjoyable to drive.
Step 3: Exterior. Make it look pretty while I'm driving it.
Step 1: Mechanical. Get it running and driving with no hiccups.
Step 2: Interior. Make it enjoyable to drive.
Step 3: Exterior. Make it look pretty while I'm driving it.
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Got the engine out yesterday, and started tearing it down in accordance with a book I got by S-A Design. Need some help determining if it is even worth continuing on this engine, the coolant passages are rusted all to hell and some even completely clogged.
The photos attached will give you a lot more info than what I could ever put into words.
I'm done in the garage for today. If I have time to mess with it more tomorrow, I will post another update at end-of-day.
The photos attached will give you a lot more info than what I could ever put into words.
I'm done in the garage for today. If I have time to mess with it more tomorrow, I will post another update at end-of-day.
The valve covers make me think its a GM replacement engine. Looks like a "hecho en mexico" one I bought back in the 90's. They are pretty affordable if you just want a new one. $3000 from scoggin dickey.
sdparts.com
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It’s definitely not the original engine. VIN number on the body says it’s supposed to be a 305, casting number on the engine says it’s an 80-86 350.The valve covers make me think its a GM replacement engine. Looks like a "hecho en mexico" one I bought back in the 90's. They are pretty affordable if you just want a new one. $3000 from scoggin dickey.
Free Shipping on New 350 Chevy Crate Engine
Save Money with a NEW Chevrolet Performance 350 New Small Block Chevy Crate Engine with warranty at SDPC!
Machine work adds up and you have to have all the parts checked for cracks etc. If you just need a replacement it's hard to beat those crate engines.
There is nothing wrong with that build up. Pretty common.
You could disassemble that engine and take the block to a machine shop. They could clean it up, and pressure test it.
Martin
You could disassemble that engine and take the block to a machine shop. They could clean it up, and pressure test it.
Martin
Looks pretty ordinary to me as far as the tear down looks. Nothing sludgy in the valley, deposits in the cooling passages look normal too. Just didn’t get flushed much is all. Should clean up though.
Not that you shouldn’t build that engine it is worth pricing out both ways. Call a local machine shop and see what the price is for cleanup and machining. Price out the kit for all the rebuild parts, bearings, pistons, rings, seals, cam, lifters, gaskets. Some machine shops will sell the parts as a kit some will have you bring in your own. Have them price it if they do. Factor in your time to tear down and reassemble. Then compare that cost to a reman like that goodwrench you already have.
Compare the numbers. The difference may be your time. If you have the extra time it’s a good saving that cost and gain the experience. If time is tight, it may make getting a reman a better option cost wise.
Don’t forget to ask the machine shop what kind of backlong they have. They may be months out too.
Not that you shouldn’t build that engine it is worth pricing out both ways. Call a local machine shop and see what the price is for cleanup and machining. Price out the kit for all the rebuild parts, bearings, pistons, rings, seals, cam, lifters, gaskets. Some machine shops will sell the parts as a kit some will have you bring in your own. Have them price it if they do. Factor in your time to tear down and reassemble. Then compare that cost to a reman like that goodwrench you already have.
Compare the numbers. The difference may be your time. If you have the extra time it’s a good saving that cost and gain the experience. If time is tight, it may make getting a reman a better option cost wise.
Don’t forget to ask the machine shop what kind of backlong they have. They may be months out too.
Thank you for all the feedback. (and 82335)
Time isn't much of a concern. Not that I don't work, I'm just not in much of a rush to get this done. I know it will take time regardless. I'm also in this for the experience. I've already learned so much and I'm sure there is much more to come as I go along.
Not much to update on today. I stopped today at the part where I'm taking pistons out, but I'm now waiting until Friday for a 7/16-20 thread chaser to come in so I can repair the crank threads and be able to turn the crank. The threads for the center crank bolt got messed up when using the damper puller / gear puller for damper and timing gears.
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You have the pan off, turn the crank with a small prybar.
Martin
Martin
So, what happened over the weekend?
I got the block completely torn down, and pressure washed the living hell out of it. It cleaned up nicely on the outside, and none of the cylinder walls look to be too bad. But, the coolant channels are still full of rust that seems to have welded itself on, and other debris. I've been unable to get the bigger plugs out of the block, and I'm sure having those off would help. Also found out that I have 624 heads, which the book I'm using calls out as being the absolute worst possible heads for a SBC, and says that I should seriously consider replacing them. Anyone else have input on this?
Also, how much work should I expect a machine shop to do for me? Will they clean everything out? I've yet to call around to local shops.
I got the block completely torn down, and pressure washed the living hell out of it. It cleaned up nicely on the outside, and none of the cylinder walls look to be too bad. But, the coolant channels are still full of rust that seems to have welded itself on, and other debris. I've been unable to get the bigger plugs out of the block, and I'm sure having those off would help. Also found out that I have 624 heads, which the book I'm using calls out as being the absolute worst possible heads for a SBC, and says that I should seriously consider replacing them. Anyone else have input on this?
Also, how much work should I expect a machine shop to do for me? Will they clean everything out? I've yet to call around to local shops.
I considered this, but I'm taking it slowly on purpose. I want to be sure I fix all the problems as they come up in order to not forget or skip anything.
The center crank thread is now fixed. Took me nearly a week to find a 7/16-20 thread tap. (Thank god for northern tool.)
Thank you.
I'd be happy to help you out. Its not uncommon what you are seeing, it appears it was behind on maintance for the cooling system. Yes the machine shop can boil the block and magnaflux it to check it for cracks. But you'd have to tear it all the way down for that. They can tear it down for you, the more they do the more it will cost and the longer it will take.
You have to decide if you want to go there and rebuild it or try to flush it out yourself.
The heads and cam are a huge part of the engine performance, and have to work together with the rest of the engine and the whole vehicle.
Let us know what questions you have.
BEEN A WHILE. Whoops.
Life, deployment, etc. Glad the machine shop still had my block when I came back 9 months later lol. I’ve been busy on this thing recently. Here’s some pics from along the way and where it is now.
The paint on the oil pan is me testing a bedliner I got for free, (Durabak) plan on eventually painting the whole truck with it. Just need to figure out a better paint spraying setup, it didn’t come out too great on the oil pan imo.
Next step is a carburetor and then the electrical fun. Also looking around for a shop that has a run stand so I can do the break-in there. If anyone’s ever run an engine on a stand like this one … I’d love to hear about it.
Life, deployment, etc. Glad the machine shop still had my block when I came back 9 months later lol. I’ve been busy on this thing recently. Here’s some pics from along the way and where it is now.
The paint on the oil pan is me testing a bedliner I got for free, (Durabak) plan on eventually painting the whole truck with it. Just need to figure out a better paint spraying setup, it didn’t come out too great on the oil pan imo.
Next step is a carburetor and then the electrical fun. Also looking around for a shop that has a run stand so I can do the break-in there. If anyone’s ever run an engine on a stand like this one … I’d love to hear about it.
