CK5
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'83 K10 SB "L1TSBFIBBC" build
- Thread starter folkenheath
- Start date
Thanks guys. I'll try and get some more pics of it installed early next week for you. I plan to have the EFI all installed, except for the exhaust this weekend. The pipes are supposed to be here Monday. But I will get the shocks custom mounted first so it's easier to weld in the mounts without the exhaust in the way. I need the exhaust pipes for the 02 sensor.
Also, after talking with Eric I am shooting for a 20 deg shackle angle in the back.
So what I plan to do is move the rear shackle hanger forward 1 7/8" (the bottom bolt hole seperation). This will allow me to drill only 5 holes per side and not have any overlapping holes. Also, I ordered some 5" shackles (1" longer) from DIY4X so it will give me a little extra length for the spring to cycle and should put my angle right around the 20 degree goal. Plus my stock shackles are not exactly straight anymore. I ordered some new bushings too from ORD with the DOM sleeves. I like the DOM sleeves better than the rolled sheet sleeves because they keep the bolt tighter so it doesn't wallow out the bolt holes.
I'll let you know how much more droop it gives me with those mods, and I'll make sure to mount the new shocks so it doesn't limit that.
Also, nvrenuf, I'll try to get a video for you in a couple weeks when I get it running again. However, I really want to get a better video of it screaming up a hill or down the sand drags this summer. Then hopefully you can hear that puppy sing! I just have to find a way to host the video, never posted a video before.
Also, after talking with Eric I am shooting for a 20 deg shackle angle in the back.
So what I plan to do is move the rear shackle hanger forward 1 7/8" (the bottom bolt hole seperation). This will allow me to drill only 5 holes per side and not have any overlapping holes. Also, I ordered some 5" shackles (1" longer) from DIY4X so it will give me a little extra length for the spring to cycle and should put my angle right around the 20 degree goal. Plus my stock shackles are not exactly straight anymore. I ordered some new bushings too from ORD with the DOM sleeves. I like the DOM sleeves better than the rolled sheet sleeves because they keep the bolt tighter so it doesn't wallow out the bolt holes.
I'll let you know how much more droop it gives me with those mods, and I'll make sure to mount the new shocks so it doesn't limit that.
Also, nvrenuf, I'll try to get a video for you in a couple weeks when I get it running again. However, I really want to get a better video of it screaming up a hill or down the sand drags this summer. Then hopefully you can hear that puppy sing! I just have to find a way to host the video, never posted a video before.
That is just awesome heath. I can not wait to see this beast in person. Where did you order the exhaust pipe from. I have been looking at a few kits but don't feel like spending the money on em. I will be doing exhaust on my dads k5 starting next week sometime.
I ordered them from the same place Zim got his mandrel bends, http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/StoreFront. One of the few places you can get mandrel bent 3" pipes that don't cost an arm and a leg. However, I didn't just order various bends. I bought a piece of 3" sewer PVC (thin stuff) and cut it into a few pieces. Then I used it to mock some stuff up just to take measurements. Then I ordered my pipes in 5 pieces from a hand sketch. I should be able to weld it up pretty easy.
However, if you want an exhaust for your Dad's K5, I would highly suggest one of the prebent dual systems from dynomax or hooker. All alumized, mandrel bent. You just have to pick header back or manifold back. You can get them for $150 - 200 plus mufflers. If you need to weld in an 02 bung for the EFI I have an extra one I didn't use.
Edit: Actually I just saw your putting headers on that thing, check your PMs, you can have my 2.25 aluminized system if you want it, just swing by and pick it up.
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answered check your pms
Photobucket or Youtube. Pretty easy.
Well, I have the EFI mostly installed, except for running the fuel lines and fitting/welding the exhaust. I made a step further last night. I decided not to use the external fuel pump that came with the kit. I am using the regulator, fittings, AN line, etc, but not the pump. I realized that if the pump lost prime for even a second when climbing, etc, the engine could go lean or stop running, the injectors NEED the pressure, unlike the carb where it would probably just pump the air through and out the bowl vent. The venturis will still pull the fuel through that they need as long as the bowl remains full. Not so with EFI, pressure is necessary at all times.
So, I changed the primary tank to the 87 TBI tank with the baffle pan in the bottom. And I thought, well, if I am doing that, electric fuel pumps are much better at pushing, so I might as well put the pump in the tank, cooler running, quiter, better pickup, more flow. So I got a new TBI sending unit, and then cut the barbs off since I am running much higher pressure. It was a little iffy cutting on a new $100 sending unit since sometimes double flares don't turn out correct(not a big deal on a $4 brake line). But it turned out great. I cut the barbs off, slid IF fittings on there, and double flared them. Then I could screw these IF-AN conversion fittings on there for a safe high pressure connection. This pump (Walbro GCA758-2, ~$125) flows enough fuel at 13.5 V to supply a NA 720 hp, kind of hard to believe with the small outlet, but the flow chart doesn't lie. And it's a direct swap for the factory TBI sending unit, comes with everything you need to swap it right in that sending unit. Here is how it looks now with the new ends...
I am not using a 2nd high pressure expensive pump, tank, and sending unit(although if a good stock used one was found it would be just the cost of the pump), the other tank I am just using as a transfer tank. My friend designed a PCB circuit that will allow me to just hold the factory tank switch button down for two seconds, and it will transfer the fuel from the other tank to the primary tank. If you just merely press the switch for either side, it will switch which side the gauge is displaying. If you hold it down on the aux (L) side, it will begin to tranfer the fuel, unless that tank empties, or the other tank fills, then it will automatically shut off.
So, I changed the primary tank to the 87 TBI tank with the baffle pan in the bottom. And I thought, well, if I am doing that, electric fuel pumps are much better at pushing, so I might as well put the pump in the tank, cooler running, quiter, better pickup, more flow. So I got a new TBI sending unit, and then cut the barbs off since I am running much higher pressure. It was a little iffy cutting on a new $100 sending unit since sometimes double flares don't turn out correct(not a big deal on a $4 brake line). But it turned out great. I cut the barbs off, slid IF fittings on there, and double flared them. Then I could screw these IF-AN conversion fittings on there for a safe high pressure connection. This pump (Walbro GCA758-2, ~$125) flows enough fuel at 13.5 V to supply a NA 720 hp, kind of hard to believe with the small outlet, but the flow chart doesn't lie. And it's a direct swap for the factory TBI sending unit, comes with everything you need to swap it right in that sending unit. Here is how it looks now with the new ends...
I am not using a 2nd high pressure expensive pump, tank, and sending unit(although if a good stock used one was found it would be just the cost of the pump), the other tank I am just using as a transfer tank. My friend designed a PCB circuit that will allow me to just hold the factory tank switch button down for two seconds, and it will transfer the fuel from the other tank to the primary tank. If you just merely press the switch for either side, it will switch which side the gauge is displaying. If you hold it down on the aux (L) side, it will begin to tranfer the fuel, unless that tank empties, or the other tank fills, then it will automatically shut off.
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Well, I have the EFI mostly installed, except for running the fuel lines and fitting/welding the exhaust. I made a step further last night. I decided not to use the external fuel pump that came with the kit. I am using the regulator, fittings, AN line, etc, but not the pump. I realized that if the pump lost prime for even a second when climbing, etc, the engine could go lean or stop running, the injectors NEED the pressure, unlike the carb where it would probably just pump the air through and out the bowl vent. The venturis will still pull the fuel through that they need as long as the bowl remains full. Not so with EFI, pressure is necessary at all times.
So, I changed the primary tank to the 87 TBI tank with the baffle pan in the bottom. And I thought, well, if I am doing that, electric fuel pumps are much better at pushing, so I might as well put the pump in the tank, cooler running, quiter, better pickup, more flow. So I got a new TBI sending unit, and then cut the barbs off since I am running much higher pressure. It was a little iffy cutting on a new $100 sending unit since sometimes double flares don't turn out correct(not a big deal on a $4 brake line). But it turned out great. I cut the barbs off, slid IF fittings on there, and double flared them. Then I could screw these IF-AN conversion fittings on there for a safe high pressure connection. This pump (Walbro GCA758-2, ~$125) flows enough fuel at 13.5 V to supply a NA 720 hp, kind of hard to believe with the small outlet, but the flow chart doesn't lie. And it's a direct swap for the factory TBI sending unit, comes with everything you need to swap it right in that sending unit. Here is how it looks now with the new ends...
I am not using a 2nd high pressure expensive pump, tank, and sending unit(although if a good stock used one was found it would be just the cost of the pump), the other tank I am just using as a transfer tank. My friend designed a PCB circuit that will allow me to just hold the factory tank switch button down for two seconds, and it will transfer the fuel from the other tank to the primary tank. If you just merely press the switch for either side, it will switch which side the gauge is displaying. If you hold it down on the aux (L) side, it will begin to tranfer the fuel, unless that tank empties, or the other tank fills, then it will automatically shut off.
very nice
whats the specs on the inline pump you didn't use? And how much do you want for it 
very nice
It was rated for 600 hp, but FAST has very good service, and they took it in a partial return for a "universal" in tank kit from them for $245, it's so new they didn't have any pics or specs on it I could see (they do now) but to me it's too universal, it's great quality, but I got it and thought, a stock TBI sending unit would be a much easier install, and cleaner too, for less money, so I am sending that back too. If you are going to run EFI or an LS engine, I think your best option is to just buy that walbro pump I did and put it in your stock TBI tank, blazer tank, truck tank, whichever. I think the FAST in tank pump kit would work excellent for a vehicle that never came with an in tank EFI pump though. BTW, did you see that 6.0 for sale on craigslist? I saw that and thought, Jess needs that!
the one for 300 that burns oil?? if so yes
No, it was $900, had 140k on it, and the 4L80E available (was more money)
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
It would be great if you can, to give us some more details on your transfer pump setup. Specificly, the wiring making it function how you described! Sounds perfect!
That is a little more complicated. It started out as a simple enough solution, but it got pretty complicated by the time my friend Scott (he is an EE) finished the circuit because I was asking for it to do more stuff and he had good ideas to implement it. If it wasn't for him, I would of had ot buy two EFI walbro pumps, two TBI tanks, and two TBI sending units, (or switch to a blazer tank) because there is no way I could of designed the circuit, that was all his knowledge, and I thank him for that. It's programmable, and he also wrote the programming code to make it work.
It looks like this...
I haven't put the enclosure on it yet, it will mount under the dash near the factory tank switch. The switch in the right is the ""revert to one tank" switch, it turns everything off and displays the passenger side tank level on the gauge in case something goes wrong. The passenger side tank is my primary tank, the drivers side is the auxilliary one, this is because the fuel inlet for the fast injection is on that side, plus the factory fuel line routing is already there too, easier to attach the new stuff. There is a connector on the other side, that has 8 terminals for input:
- switched 12V
- ground
- primary (PS) tank from factory tank switch
- secondary (DS) tank from factory tank switch
- primary tank sending unit
- secondary tank sending unit
- fuel gauge sender wire
- wire for relay that turns on aux fuel pump relay by switching to ground
So, I just bought this little pump...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACF-EP12S/
It is a low pressure pump that came with 3/8" hose inlet/outlet and mounting hardware. It is turned on by a standard relay, that is controlled by that PCB above. Much simpler plumbing with one system. I just bought a brass PEX 3/4x1/2x3/4 T fitting at Lowes, and plumbed the transfer line into the vent hose for the filler neck (my brothers idea).
My truck was carbed before, so it was cheaper for me to do this, or if you just think it's cool to have aux pump control this will work great. (assuming your friend is willing to design a circuit for you, or you are an EE). Or you could just put a seperate switch in to turn the transfer pump on and off. But knowing me I would forget to turn it off, and it would run dry, or start pouring fuel out the vent hose on the other tank, so I thought that was a little dangerous. With this circuit, it won't do that. Plus just touching the button will switch which side the gauge is displaying without actually changing anything(my friends solution).
However, if you already have a dual tank TBI setup, it's cheaper to just get two walbro pumps and put them into a Y fitting on the high pressure side (supply), and just use the solenoid valve to control the return line (low pressure) side. Then the wiring is already there to control both pumps too, you just need new pumps. The walbro pumps have a built in check valve to maintain injector pressure after prime, so the fuel in the supply side will only be able to go one way, you don't need to use the solenoid valve on the supply side, which may leak because of the pressure, and could also limit flow depending on your HP level.
To be honest, I have the EFI all wired up, but still need to run the extra wires for the fuel pumps. He said it tested out fine but I haven't actually installed it on the truck yet (we did test a prototype before though).
It looks like this...
I haven't put the enclosure on it yet, it will mount under the dash near the factory tank switch. The switch in the right is the ""revert to one tank" switch, it turns everything off and displays the passenger side tank level on the gauge in case something goes wrong. The passenger side tank is my primary tank, the drivers side is the auxilliary one, this is because the fuel inlet for the fast injection is on that side, plus the factory fuel line routing is already there too, easier to attach the new stuff. There is a connector on the other side, that has 8 terminals for input:
- switched 12V
- ground
- primary (PS) tank from factory tank switch
- secondary (DS) tank from factory tank switch
- primary tank sending unit
- secondary tank sending unit
- fuel gauge sender wire
- wire for relay that turns on aux fuel pump relay by switching to ground
So, I just bought this little pump...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACF-EP12S/
It is a low pressure pump that came with 3/8" hose inlet/outlet and mounting hardware. It is turned on by a standard relay, that is controlled by that PCB above. Much simpler plumbing with one system. I just bought a brass PEX 3/4x1/2x3/4 T fitting at Lowes, and plumbed the transfer line into the vent hose for the filler neck (my brothers idea).
My truck was carbed before, so it was cheaper for me to do this, or if you just think it's cool to have aux pump control this will work great. (assuming your friend is willing to design a circuit for you, or you are an EE). Or you could just put a seperate switch in to turn the transfer pump on and off. But knowing me I would forget to turn it off, and it would run dry, or start pouring fuel out the vent hose on the other tank, so I thought that was a little dangerous. With this circuit, it won't do that. Plus just touching the button will switch which side the gauge is displaying without actually changing anything(my friends solution).
However, if you already have a dual tank TBI setup, it's cheaper to just get two walbro pumps and put them into a Y fitting on the high pressure side (supply), and just use the solenoid valve to control the return line (low pressure) side. Then the wiring is already there to control both pumps too, you just need new pumps. The walbro pumps have a built in check valve to maintain injector pressure after prime, so the fuel in the supply side will only be able to go one way, you don't need to use the solenoid valve on the supply side, which may leak because of the pressure, and could also limit flow depending on your HP level.
To be honest, I have the EFI all wired up, but still need to run the extra wires for the fuel pumps. He said it tested out fine but I haven't actually installed it on the truck yet (we did test a prototype before though).
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
I bet he could make money selling those things! Cause i know i sure ainy got the smarts build it!
I bet he could make money selling those things! Cause i know i sure ainy got the smarts build it!
Yeah I am not sure if there is enough of a market for them or not, but it is pretty cool what he did, I couldn't do that. The funny thing is he put both of our names on the custom PC board he had made, it's surprising to see your name built into a PCB. My wife doesn't usually care about that technical stuff and she was laughing when she saw the names on it.
This weekend I got the fuel system all plumbed. I used some thermotec sleeve close to the exhaust to keep the fuel lines from getting too warm. I ran AN lines out of the tank, to hard lines along the PS framerail. Then there are two more AN lines that go up to the throttle body and regulator. The short line comes out of the throttle body and into the regulator. I also started the wiring for the fuel pumps, but I didn't get it done. Wiring always takes me a while because I make sure to run the lines in factory convolute where available, and solder and heat shrink every joint, and use new convolute where needed. I hate electrical gremlins so I try to avoid them as much as possible.
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That EFI is saweet!!! How much is that whole system costing????
That circuit board is pretty sweet 
. I would love to have something like that on mine. Then I could run a FASS unit. Mines a diesel so it has some interesting requirements.
. I would love to have something like that on mine. Then I could run a FASS unit. Mines a diesel so it has some interesting requirements.
Yeah, he went above what I was expecting. One minute I was asking if it was possible, and the next thing you know he was ready to build it. Albiet, after MANY hours of circuit design and part selection.
Well, I got the master kit for $1890, returned that fuel pump for about what it costs for the walbro pump after I decided to go in tank. So about that much, plus a couple extra fittings. The 2nd tank I consider a seperate cost, not really needed for EFI and many people don't have two tanks, I just wanted to keep the fuel capacity and that solution will work excellent. (I want to be able to drive to silver lake without filling up in the middle) I'm also putting dual 3" exhaust on at the same time, but that isn't needed either. I have about $300 in those pipes to my door (3" mandrel bent aluminized), plus the mufflers (Flowmaster big block muffs).
That circuit board is pretty sweet
OK, I'm not a diesel guy, I'll bite without googling it, what is a FASS? (It seems to me like you forgot the T.
) And what are your interesting requirements? Can you get a simple, inexpensive electric pump to transfer the diesel?
