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'83 K5 Jimmy

bearbait49

Registered Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Posts
8
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Location
las vegas, nv
Hi everybody, I am in the preocess of converting my '83 K5 Jimmy from a TH350/NP208 (blew it up) to a SM465/NP205 (if I'm going to replace it I might as well put what I want in it). I decided to go with a hydraulic clutch because I prefer it over mechanical. I'm not having much luck finding information on how to do this conversion (mechanical to hydro, finding plenty on the trans swap) so I figured I would make an attempt at posting my own progress in case anybody else out there wants to try to do things the hard way as well. I've seen a lot of people that say I need a pedal assembly from an 85-88 hydro (proving hard and expensive to find), but I've found one thread (tried to post the URl but apparently I'm a newb) that states you can drill out to welds for the return spring on the mechanical pedal assembly and rotate the bracket 90 degrees, bolt and/or weld it back on and things are supposed to line up perfect for the clutch master cylinder. So I decided to try this out since I'm already commited to the hard route. I've got the new clutch disc/pressure pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch fork, throwout bearing, bell housing, and gearbox installed. I am going to try to use Advance Adapters (from summit) mount for the slave cylinder and I need to pull the gearbox back out to swap out the clutch fork for Advance Adapters clutch fork because the stock fork sits too close to the slave cylinder. Any rate, I figured I would document this somewhere and let you guys know how it goes. I'll post pictures as soon as I figure out how.
 
Okay, I've got the pedal assembly in and mounted, I ended up turning the bracket towards the drivers seat. This allowed for full movement of the clutch master cylinder rod at what seems to me the perfect agle. The clutch master cylinder fit perfectly in place of a wiring grommet that housed a three wire harness which was easily moved two inches up into another wiring grommet. I did have to cut a small piece of the collar around the brake booster/steering housing, but just enough to get a bolt and socket in. I think I might go back later and reinforce the firewall at the clutch master cylinder because it seems to have some minimal flex when the pedal is pushed, but I think it should be okay. Again, will eventually post pictures. Happy building everybody.
 
I have done the swap both ways (automatic to hydraulic clutch and automatic to mechanical clutch). I use a OEM hydraulic setup though, and it was pretty simple. Make a few more posts (I believe 5???) and then you should be able to post pictures. I would also recommend paying for the membership, it makes the board much better.

Martin
 

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