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Went thru a pile of calipers to find two good ones, replaced both, checked hubs, checked and adjusted rear brakes, checked all u bolts, rag joint is new, replaced steering box, a arm bushings and ball joints are new, alignment checked
I’d still revisit calipers, and lines. You’re having some misbalance there. Changing calipers to used ones would make me ask why the used ones aren’t on something already, and I’d be suspect of them
Occasionally the axle shaft joints are seized, and cause some mischief
If the calipers sat on a shelf with the line port open, moisture will destroy them. Even in Colorado. Like bent said, why were they removed in the first place? I have never understood putting a used, unknown safety part on a vehicle when remanufactured ones are $26 each.
Factory gm brake line of this age are notorious for failing inside.
Sometimes they balloon when pressure is applied, causing less braking force on that side.
Other times a little flap will form and act like a check valve keeping pressure on that side. Either will cause a pull.
Make the caliper pin bushings slide easily in the caliper, should be able to do by hand. Siliglyde grease on those orings, not to much but enough to slide the bushing.
Edit: need to clarify brake line, as soft lines. Though physical damage to hard lines can lead to brake pull.
Both my k5's have a heavy pull to the right under braking, i thought it was an issue until I saw the 1989 Motor Trend review where a brand new Factory K5 pulled hard right under braking. See 3:25 in this video:
I don't know if this is helpful to you being that yours pulls left, but I don't think K5's can brake in a straight line to begin with.