You are right. I thought it was part of the U Joint. It won’t come off. Rusted on big time.
CK5
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83 K5 sloppy steering with videos
- Thread starter Aviodont
- Start date
No need to replace unless damaged or rusted away. New stub shafts don't come with them. I used a press to remove and install on my new stub shafts
I didn’t change the spindle bearings because they look good. but I am thinking maybe they were originally pushed in too far because the channel seal (I think that’s what it is called) is not flush with the surface where the bevel washer will rest. It comes up to the level of the chamfer edge.
So, despite a wasp sting under the curly part of one of my toes which has caused my whole foot to swell which prevents me from curling my toes.... I have made a little progress.
1. I finally installed the axles. No laughing, but I first tried to slide the passenger one in with my little homemade shim, and thought, this is easy. Then I read the directions Ftn96 provided and realized the knuckles had to go on first. Well, it was not easy at all to slide out the shim with the knuckle in the way. When it was time to do the drivers side, I was thinking there is no way I am going to be able to support that sort of weight and it is going to scrape. To make matters worse, my son left the hydraulic jack in the way in tight quarters in the garage and I began muttering under my breath, and then it hit me.... I’ll use the hydraulic jack to support the weight of the axle. I got the jack right up against the knuckle, got it to the perfect height to give me a little less than half inch clearance and all I had to do was keep it centered. A little jiggle at the end and I was in.
2. Spindle lubed and installed onto axle and brake shield installed next and torqued to 50. I will say that I think Ftn’s instructions were mixed up in order. His said to put the brake shield on first and then the spindle.
Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to seat the races and put the rotor on.
I am thinking to the next week and I want to change the leaf spring bushings as well as the sway bar.
Is the best place to place jack stands at the frame right before it curves upwards and forwards?
I was looking at the shackle and the upper bolt access looks tight. Any tips?
1. I finally installed the axles. No laughing, but I first tried to slide the passenger one in with my little homemade shim, and thought, this is easy. Then I read the directions Ftn96 provided and realized the knuckles had to go on first. Well, it was not easy at all to slide out the shim with the knuckle in the way. When it was time to do the drivers side, I was thinking there is no way I am going to be able to support that sort of weight and it is going to scrape. To make matters worse, my son left the hydraulic jack in the way in tight quarters in the garage and I began muttering under my breath, and then it hit me.... I’ll use the hydraulic jack to support the weight of the axle. I got the jack right up against the knuckle, got it to the perfect height to give me a little less than half inch clearance and all I had to do was keep it centered. A little jiggle at the end and I was in.
2. Spindle lubed and installed onto axle and brake shield installed next and torqued to 50. I will say that I think Ftn’s instructions were mixed up in order. His said to put the brake shield on first and then the spindle.
Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to seat the races and put the rotor on.
I am thinking to the next week and I want to change the leaf spring bushings as well as the sway bar.
Is the best place to place jack stands at the frame right before it curves upwards and forwards?
I was looking at the shackle and the upper bolt access looks tight. Any tips?
cut the heads off the tight sides, install new grade 8 bolts in the easy direction which ever it is.
Jack stand on flat part of frame, be sure to chock rear wheels and make sure the jack rolls when going up and down.
Jack stand on flat part of frame, be sure to chock rear wheels and make sure the jack rolls when going up and down.
Races seated (what a pain in the arse, even with the proper tools).
Thinking ahead to the hubs. I went with Mike Marker 302. Can I use the original wheel bearing lock nuts with the sandwiched washer (holes)? (See photo)
And I think there was another washer in between the outer lock nut and the snap ring.
Thinking ahead to the hubs. I went with Mike Marker 302. Can I use the original wheel bearing lock nuts with the sandwiched washer (holes)? (See photo)
And I think there was another washer in between the outer lock nut and the snap ring.
Doesn’t the hub go in deeper? It is a Mile Marker 302. I don’t know how I would be able to get the snap ring on the axle since it is covered by the hub currently.
Wheel bearing adjusting nut was a torqued to 50 while rotating, backed off, re torqued told 35 while rotating. Washer was test seated and I only needed to undo the nut a little since I could see half the simple through the washer. Lock nut torqued to 90.
I think I can see the groove for the round wire snap ring exposed, if you ring locks in your good.
edit the locking mech needs grease too, try and smoosh grease in between the 2 sliding parts.
edit the locking mech needs grease too, try and smoosh grease in between the 2 sliding parts.
Interesting. The instructions say not to add any grease. I thought that was wrong.
When you say you can see the groove for the snap ring, do you mean the small one that fits on the axle splines or the large one that goes around the whole hub?
Also, is the spin to restricted in this video?
View attachment FullSizeRender.mov
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it doesn't seem to be, I always like to see it with tire on, should spin several times with one good push. New bearing need to be a touch tighter than used.
Almost done!
Torque values for the following will help:
-Front leaf spring main eyelet bolt
-front leaf spring shackle bolts
-sway bar end link bolts (where it joins leaf spring plate)
-sway bar front frame bolts
Torque values for the following will help:
-Front leaf spring main eyelet bolt
-front leaf spring shackle bolts
-sway bar end link bolts (where it joins leaf spring plate)
-sway bar front frame bolts
I usually go 95ft lbs on these but if you are using stock bushings the rubber is molded to the sleeve and it puts more stress on the rubber when the spring cycles.
With greased poly bushings you can tighten your bolts with no worries
I went with Energy Suspension polyurethane on all the bushings above.
Anyone ever come across this? My upper ball joint zerk fitting is too close to the knuckle and I can’t get the grease gun to attach to it. Any suggestions?
Use a needle tip attachment on your grease gun
Well I want to thank ALL who helped.
I ended up replacing the whole front end with the exception of the upper shackle bushings. We were just worn out after 4 months and my son needed to start using the truck to get to/from school. We also got an alignment and tires. It is not a great ride, but it is a big improvement. Even my wife enjoyed driving it.
I will try to post a video of the driving as well as the cost of the refurbishment in case anyone in the future is curious. The only big ticket items were a red head gearbox and 4 new tires.
The next items up are:
1. A tune-up to help increase the 8.5mpg that I have calculated over the last two weeks
2. Fix the rear window so it goes up reliably (or find a hack)
3. Reduce the “aroma” of exhaust penetrating the cabin
4. Work on the rusting body parts (my son is in welding school now)
5. Replace the rear suspension
Once again, thank you to everyone who helped make this truck safe for my son!
I ended up replacing the whole front end with the exception of the upper shackle bushings. We were just worn out after 4 months and my son needed to start using the truck to get to/from school. We also got an alignment and tires. It is not a great ride, but it is a big improvement. Even my wife enjoyed driving it.
I will try to post a video of the driving as well as the cost of the refurbishment in case anyone in the future is curious. The only big ticket items were a red head gearbox and 4 new tires.
The next items up are:
1. A tune-up to help increase the 8.5mpg that I have calculated over the last two weeks
2. Fix the rear window so it goes up reliably (or find a hack)
3. Reduce the “aroma” of exhaust penetrating the cabin
4. Work on the rusting body parts (my son is in welding school now)
5. Replace the rear suspension
Once again, thank you to everyone who helped make this truck safe for my son!
