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84 6.2 no start issue

6.2/1983

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I am having issues starting my k5. I am Trying to figure out if it’s the starter or the key lock. When it does this I have been able to get it to start by taking the keys out and locking the key tumbler and steering wheel and then turning it slowly again. It does click and not start each time so I have to back it back out and do it again. I’m thinking it’s either the starter, the ignition key switch, or the starter solenoid.

Here is a link to a video I made of it.


Thanks guys.
 
It is probably the rod from the tumbler to the ignition switch not moving far enough to activate the switch all the way to the "start" position,seeing it WILL start if you keep trying,indicated the starter and wiring is working...

--it "might" be the starter solenoid not activating too,it may not be getting enough voltage to make it "kick in"--you can check the purple "crank" wire at the solenoid by hooking a test light to it and watch as you turn the key to start ,if it lights up then you know at least some power is getting there..or you can jump the purple wire at the solenoid to the big stud with the positive battery cable to see if it will crank over then--if it does,then its a ignition switch or power issue to the purple solenoid wire .

I would make sure the solenoid is firmly bolted to the starter too,I have had a few that the 2 bolts loosened up on,or even fell out,that hold it to the nose cone on the starter,then the solenoid was just flopping around and bound up,couldn't make the starter activate..
 
Is it any different on the 6.2? It seems like the starter/soilniod is fine. I am thinking of pulling the steering coloum and working on that rod. I really think thats what it could be as the starter trys each time when i back the key off. Also the key tumbler/cruise controll/shift rod are sort of lose so i may look at that if i pull the colum.
 
Good idea. Thanks! I really am not looking forward to pulling the colum. I helped once in my dads 77 and i hated it so much. It took us a long time to get it back together.
 
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That rod looks like its going to be a bubblegum to get to. Anyone done it before that have any tips?
 
That truck got ac? That makes it a bit more difficult.

But in the past, I've dropped the column down to access the switches. Unscrew the plastic trim piece up at the dash, the lower metal plate, unscrew the nuts holding column to dash (15mm socket iirc) and it will come down if there is no ac ducting. *Might* have to unbolt the plate at the firewall to get a bit more travel, but iirc, you can rotate the column somewhat once it's loose from the dash. Might need to loosen linkage for trans shifter, and definitely remove shift indicator wire from the column.
 
Yeah,that little dental floss "string" for the gear indicator always breaks when you forget to detach it first before lowering the colum..:doah:..I've yet to get one fixed after I broke it ..

You could put a in push button switch just to crank it too,which is much easier than messing with the steering colum..and just use the ignition for the "ON" and "OFF",& "ACC" positions,if you want a quick easier fix..

I've swapped complete steering colums in several trucks,but balk at trying to "fix" one..they ones I replaced had worn bearings and the steering wheel could flop up and down,or they had loose or ruined tilt wheel mechanisms..I don't use or like tilt steering,so I put standard colums back in..

All you need to do to make a push button work is to tap into the purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid and run a wire to a 12V hot source like the battery positive or the thick red wire that goes to the ignition switch..an easy place to tap into the purple wire,is where it attaches to the neutral safety switch on the steering colum next to the firewall..

I rather like a hidden push button,that qualifies you for a discount on your insurance as an "anti-theft device"..
 
Before you tear into all that, test the starter circuit. You have a starter safety switch either on your clutch pedal bracket (stick) or attached to the top of your column (auto). On my '83 I had the wiring for both, with the clutch switch plug jumpered across. Yellow wire in, purple wire out (check the 1984 wiring diagrams in case the colors changed). Put 12V on the output wire and the starter will crank.

This 2-minute test will verify that the problem is in the column (or further upstream).
 
Or you can stick a screwdriver between the start and power studs on the solenoid...

Yeah, but that won't confirm that the problem is specifically in the column. Which was the goal here since that's the smoking gun.

Plus, screwdriver-jumping the starter is kind of a sucky job on a 6.2. And more so if he's still running a direct drive starter. That's the next place I'd look if the switch test fails, though.
 
I went to look into getting a rod for the column and was smashed into in the intersection by an old woman who ran the red light and said she forgot which peddle was for which. So i have been down for a few days.
I was in my subruban and not the k5.
I made a better video.

 

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