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84 cucv: Nom nom

So a few more pics.

Finished the Carb that next day. Had some issues :rolleyes:. I go to clean the surface of the intake and get it ready to put the gasket/carb on, and the fuel line is streaming fuel. It got hot that day, and the pressure built up in the tank and was pushing the fuel out of the line, so I opened the cap and all was well. Get the carb mounted, fires right up (minus the hickup to fill the bowl) and fuel is spraying out of a hose on the fuel line. About 2-3" of rubber hose near the top of the metal fuel line, I assumed from a hole, or someone cut it in half, so I didn't touch it because it didn't leak, and I knew it would if I messed with it. But luckily it just tightened up. I do now keep a fire extinguisher in Nom Nom now. :waytogo: Other than that, carb runs great, no more flat spots, choke works loads better, it's smoother all around. And I'ma start counting my MPGs. I'll be taking that dashpot off, took off all the vacuum lines, there's was no more emissions on it, so that tvs and all the other crap did nothing anyway. Still need to fine tune the A/F mixture.
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Rear speakers, one on each side. But now I can't fit rifles in the mount. Oh well.
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Not the best job on the install, but it works.
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Took the top off last night!
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And a present from the wife :woot:
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Oh and to solve the tank pressure issue. Put an axle breather cap on the extra steel line comming off the diesel tank. I'd of ripped the cannister off the parts truck, and rig it up how it should be, but it didn't have it.
 
mrschaeferpants said:
Nah no mods as of right now. Just want everything to work and be mechanically sound. I do like the late model grill/headlight setup though, perhaps one day.

Sometime down the road I'll be throwing on 3/4 ton running gear. I don't have the room right now, cause I'll probably find a fully loaded Suburban, and until I have room for another parts rig (once this one goes) and the garage space to store stuff, I won't be doing anything. Cause I'd like to switch to power doors one day too. Perhaps 4" of lift, 35s, and some fender trimming, but down the road.

I have a cig lighter, it's physically in the hole, not connected, and with a wire dangling from it. I haven't done anything yet to it, but will get it working soon, so I can charge my phone.
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When doing the cig lighter ya gotta run it to a 12v wire. I found a few of them coming from the headlight switch. Could tap into one of those wires easily. Those wires are also controlled by the blackout switch.

Yea I'm out off room too! Thinking bout buying some land so I have room for all my crap. Lol!

Oh and check your belts. All of mine were original and rotted. Found out during my May Moab trip...
 
More helpful tips:

A block heater is helpful too! 600-1000 watt.
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Anti gel
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Check the rubber hose on your trans, vacuum modulator. Make sure there's no leaks/cracks
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2INSANE said:
When doing the cig lighter ya gotta run it to a 12v wire.
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I'll probably just run a new wire off the fuse panel to a 12ign source like I did for the stereo, I don't like splicing into stuff, or better yet get a fuse tap thing, and like the stereo, it'll only work when the truck is running, less for me to forget to turn off, since I don't have an acc position.

As far as the block heater and anti gel. Mines no longer a diesel.

It didn't even have a line off the modulator, so it's all new hose now. Just bought a hose barb fitting and screwed it into the back of the intake manifold. Not sure if that modulator is supposed to have full manifold vacuum at all times or what? Should look it up, I have plenty of ports on my carb :D
 
andyblack said:
It needs full manifold vacuum. How is your shifting? Is it rough or really smooth?
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Driving it's just fine, but park to drive, or park to reverse it slams into gear. I'll have to double check now that the carbs rebuilt, I forget if it's only when the RPMs are high idling from the choke, and now that the choke works correctly, and idles back down. I gotta see if it still does it. It did it this morning when my wife took it out, but she didn't let it warm up :doah: I gotta let her know you can't just take off first thing in the morning, she hasn't drove an older vehicle in a while :haha:
 
10-4! I must have been overly excited to see another cucv that I failed to read about your motor not being diesel. Carry on!:waytogo:
 
2INSANE said:
10-4! I must have been overly excited to see another cucv that I failed to read about your motor not being diesel. Carry on!:waytogo:
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Just checked out your thread, that's an awesome rig man :waytogo: That's what I'd like to do some day, part for part. Perhaps not the canvas topper, since I'm in western WA :D I do like them though. That's the problem I have though, it's nice for a month or so here, but I don't want to keep putting the hard topper on. How does the canvas hold up to rain.... everyday... for 10-11 months out of the year.
 
If it shifts good while it's going down the road then you've probably got the right vacuum going to it. I put an adjustable modulator on mine but I haven't messed with it yet. Mine will slam into reverse sometimes too, but it did the same thing when I had a TH700R4 in there too. I think it may just be excessive backlash in the pinion or something. I sure don't like it though.
 
andyblack said:
If it shifts good while it's going down the road then you've probably got the right vacuum going to it. I put an adjustable modulator on mine but I haven't messed with it yet. Mine will slam into reverse sometimes too, but it did the same thing when I had a TH700R4 in there too. I think it may just be excessive backlash in the pinion or something. I sure don't like it though.
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Neither do I, just feels like I'm breaking something. So I started leaving my foot off the break so when it slams into gear, at least it moves a bit instead of not being able to give a little.
 
Hmmm... I take the opposite approach and keep the parking brake on and mash my foot down hard on the brake pedal. Seems like that minimizes the slamming a little. One of these days I'll get up under there and try adjusting that screw on my vacuum modulator and see if I can get mine to do any better. Then I'll let you know what I found out.
 
mrschaeferpants said:
Just checked out your thread, that's an awesome rig man :waytogo: That's what I'd like to do some day, part for part. Perhaps not the canvas topper, since I'm in western WA :D I do like them though. That's the problem I have though, it's nice for a month or so here, but I don't want to keep putting the hard topper on. How does the canvas hold up to rain.... everyday... for 10-11 months out of the year.
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Thx! I sold the soft top about 2 months ago.
 
If you want to swap to dual headlights, all you have to do is swap radiator supports. It only takes a couple hours. Then just swap headlight harnesses.

Martin
 
So here's how my day went.

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Wife took Nom Nom this morning(since her Silverado is STILL in the shop), came back, went out to smoke, and she told me I'm leaking coolant. So I check, ok lower radiator hose, that sucks, shoulda changed it when we did the engine, but oh well, np.

Change the hose, now it's pouring out of the water pump, great. So I'm tearing it all apart, notice some leakage at the front base of the intake mannifold, oil it seemed like, front rubber seal is bad, guess I'll do that too, and as I was taking that off, a few of the bolts were loose, prolly had some vacuum leaks, however small, sure why not might as well.

Good time to check the lifters, since I still have major ticks, intermittently. Pull them, they look good, blow out the tubes, and take some steel wool to the base since some slid out rough, get to #4 cylinder (intake I think) and it looks like this.

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So now I gotta decide if it's worthwhile right now to get a cam and lifter kit, then it's more might as wells I bet.
 
Now is a great time to do the radiator support swap. They are WAY easier to work on with that out of the way.

Martin
 
Everyone keeps talking about the quad headlight :dunno: No plans on that any time soon, if at all.

There's a lot of confusion on the CUCVs and 12-24v, just the starter was 24v.
99.9% of the truck is 12v, a regular K5.

They're ran in series to provide 24v to starter, and the nato slave adapter to jump other military vehicles. Each alternator is 12v, each battery is 12v. The front battery is ran to the rest of the truck for normal 12v applications.

The only ''conversion'' was since I put in a gasser, I had to buy a new starter that was 12v, otherwise the starter would turn super slow, if at all. And running a wire to the hei, and chopping up the alternator wires.
 
I was just joking. It is much easier to work on the engine with the radiator support removed.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I was just joking. It is much easier to work on the engine with the radiator support removed.

Martin
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Ya I gotta figure out if removing the radiator is enough to get the cam out. Or that and the grill, and if I can turn the cam to come out through the opening in the core support.
 
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