CK5
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84 diesel
- Thread starter toms-k5
- Start date
First picture is the day I brought it home, so far I installed new batteries and starter. I put in a new stereo and drove it a few months as a daily driver. It gets around 20 mpg with the 33s on it. Next came the shackle flip in the rear and 4 inch rough country soft ride springs in the front. ORD frame saver for the steering box. Bilstiein 5100 shocks front and rear. I repainted the old winch bumper off my last k5 and mounted on this one with fresh bolts.
Nice! Make sure you put the starter brace on to keep the starter from breaking off.
There are two different starters and each one has a unique brace. They attach the front end of the starter to the block are extremely important for the diesel starters. They came on the trucks from the factory but are often not reinstalled after people chalks the starter.
This is the gear reduction starter and brace.
This is the gear reduction starter and brace.
Diesel Sub
Newbie
STARTER BRACE
Following up on the post by 'kennyw'. The Starter Brace is CRITICAL, I literally wouldn't drive the vehicle on rough roads until one is installed. I've been playing with 6.2/6.5 Diesels for 25 years and have seen photos of the Starter Mounting Pad being BROKEN off the Engine Block. I think the 'Direct Drive' version of the Starter was more prone, due to it being heavier, however both versions are long and heavy. The 'Gear Reduction' version was introduced some time during production and in my opinion would be an upgrade. Just be sure to get the Brace for whichever starter you have.
One necessary feature for installing the brace is your Starter should have a Threaded Stud as one of the Bolts holding the unit together. That Stud is where the Brace mounts. If someone installed the 'Incorrect' Starter, it may not be present. There is a Threaded Hole in the side of Engine Block that secures the Brace to the engine. Also, I would follow kennyw's lead and purchase REAL GM factory Starter Mounting Bolts. All the ones from a 'Parts Store' are Chinese Junk copies.
I've had an '87 3/4 Ton 4x4 Diesel Suburban since 1998 and they are amazing. One wire to open the Fuel Shutoff on the Injection Pump is all it takes to keep the engine running. There are 'ways' of converting that valve to a Mechanical Cable, or at least there once were.
Fine looking rig, and your Mods fit well with it's mission. Not fond of 'lifts' personally, due to being an 'Old Geezer' and detesting getting in and out! Ha!
Bruce
Following up on the post by 'kennyw'. The Starter Brace is CRITICAL, I literally wouldn't drive the vehicle on rough roads until one is installed. I've been playing with 6.2/6.5 Diesels for 25 years and have seen photos of the Starter Mounting Pad being BROKEN off the Engine Block. I think the 'Direct Drive' version of the Starter was more prone, due to it being heavier, however both versions are long and heavy. The 'Gear Reduction' version was introduced some time during production and in my opinion would be an upgrade. Just be sure to get the Brace for whichever starter you have.
One necessary feature for installing the brace is your Starter should have a Threaded Stud as one of the Bolts holding the unit together. That Stud is where the Brace mounts. If someone installed the 'Incorrect' Starter, it may not be present. There is a Threaded Hole in the side of Engine Block that secures the Brace to the engine. Also, I would follow kennyw's lead and purchase REAL GM factory Starter Mounting Bolts. All the ones from a 'Parts Store' are Chinese Junk copies.
I've had an '87 3/4 Ton 4x4 Diesel Suburban since 1998 and they are amazing. One wire to open the Fuel Shutoff on the Injection Pump is all it takes to keep the engine running. There are 'ways' of converting that valve to a Mechanical Cable, or at least there once were.
Fine looking rig, and your Mods fit well with it's mission. Not fond of 'lifts' personally, due to being an 'Old Geezer' and detesting getting in and out! Ha!
Bruce
I did get the gear reduction starter, thanks for the information, this is my first diesel k5. I mainly got it because it is smog exempt, but it runs great and gets way better mileage than the last one I had. I have a lot more work to do to it before it's done.
