No idea what gp is present in the system.. zero clue even how to tell short of pulling them?
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
That's a good start...
Stock controller?
Stock controller?
Yes stock controller and it seems to be working, the preliminary tests when I got the truck all the glows tested working with the test light. I haven't tried to check it again.
A small air leak on the vacuum side of the pump will do this, particularly at idle, when the fuel flow rate is low. Mine would behave perfectly under load but sputter at idle, and it eventually got bad enough that it could completely stall if I idled it long enough. But it took several months to get to that point.
I don't think you can tell, aside from Bosch using a 10MM head instead of the common 3/8" head size.
And that sounded like a stock GP controller to me. Haven't used one of those for several years now.
I don't mind the stock controller, as long as the focker starts easy. I found the Kennedy quick heats worked well with the stock controller on my '83 GMC, but after a year they started failing one at a time. At roughly $10 each it wasn't the end of the world, just annoying.
If you don't mind an easy mod and one momentary button under the dash somewhere, the AC 60G's are pretty good and last longer than the quick heats. You learn about how long your GP's need to glow based on temp etc. With a manual button on my 81 Jimmy if it had been running in the last hour, temp in mid 50's I'd only have to hold the button maybe three seconds. From dead cold overnight, temp around 30's I'd hold the button for a full 10 count, throttle half open and it'd fire up no problem.
If you don't mind an easy mod and one momentary button under the dash somewhere, the AC 60G's are pretty good and last longer than the quick heats. You learn about how long your GP's need to glow based on temp etc. With a manual button on my 81 Jimmy if it had been running in the last hour, temp in mid 50's I'd only have to hold the button maybe three seconds. From dead cold overnight, temp around 30's I'd hold the button for a full 10 count, throttle half open and it'd fire up no problem.
Honestly I'd rather it be manual vs auto..
Manual button is easy as pie. Open the hood and find the GP solenoid on the driver's inner fender. You'll see a small light blue wire that goes to the solenoid. The other end of that comes from the controller at the rear/top of the engine. Snip the light blue wire about 6" away from the GP controller and pull it back out of the loom until it's peeking out somewhere near the lower firewall area. Find a grommet and push that light blue wire through to the under-dash area. Install your chosen momentary switch and attach the light blue wire to one side of it. Attach a ground wire to the other side of the switch. Now when you push the button the light blue wire gets grounded, which activates the GPs.
Easy mod, but I wouldn't recommend it until you have AC60G's installed. The older GP's swell and the tips break off which is ungood.
Easy mod, but I wouldn't recommend it until you have AC60G's installed. The older GP's swell and the tips break off which is ungood.
This is pretty easy to change.
That's actually easier than what I did. I left the GP controller harness intact and wired up my own 12V circuit to flip the relay. The other 2 trucks already had hack jobs when I got them. Also, 2 of my trucks had relay failures, those relays were replaced with standard Ford starter relays (same shape but bolted connections instead of spade lugs). Supposedly they handle longer cycle times more robustly, but that's just hearsay. I just know that they were easier for me to locate when I was in need.
Looking back, Rene's idea sounds better than mine. I've learned a bunch of things the hard way.
I can't take credit, I read about this method from one of the 6.2 gurus that came well before me and posted in the diesel forum. I passed it along because it's easy, works well, and there is no high current wiring going through a switch under the dash. 
I can't take credit, I read about this method from one of the 6.2 gurus that came well before me and posted in the diesel forum. I passed it along because it's easy, works well, and there is no high current wiring going through a switch under the dash.
Yeah, I like the idea a lot. The P.O. of my suburban took one large wire from each side of the relay and ran them under the dash to a 5 amp push button. Needless to say, he melted the terminals and was doing his GP controlling with a pair of pliers and a small spark each time he wanted the plugs to come on. That was class "A" stupidity right there.
Been away, so I'm sorry for my delayed response
Finally got to watch all the videos. Completely agree with Rene on his glowplug recommendations - I also have Kennedy Quick Heats, and they've worked fine in low-demand Texas.
The quality of your warm start/idle indicates to me that you have a well functioning IP, and injectors are holding good pressure during the shorter intervals between warm starts.
I'm of the opinion that idle variations are usually air related. A small leak in the low pressure side will find its way to the IP. Check for wet lines on the return side, between injectors, and up to the IP. Easy to identify and change.
David
Finally got to watch all the videos. Completely agree with Rene on his glowplug recommendations - I also have Kennedy Quick Heats, and they've worked fine in low-demand Texas.
The quality of your warm start/idle indicates to me that you have a well functioning IP, and injectors are holding good pressure during the shorter intervals between warm starts.
I'm of the opinion that idle variations are usually air related. A small leak in the low pressure side will find its way to the IP. Check for wet lines on the return side, between injectors, and up to the IP. Easy to identify and change.
David
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@AgDieseler a friend of mine says it runs good for a 6.2 but I cannot confirm the mileage other than taking the po word for it.. someone has definitely been in some parts of the engine obvious from the copious amounts of silicone.
It doesn't smoke as you saw unless it's heavily loaded and I am running a big hill but that seems normal to me.. I'm trying to get some indication of the life left..
It doesn't smoke as you saw unless it's heavily loaded and I am running a big hill but that seems normal to me.. I'm trying to get some indication of the life left..
Well, it appears to be in better shape than mine. I'm not sure why you think it's on its last legs.
It sounded good through my iPhone speakers. If it fires right up after your glow plug fix, that is an indicator (along with the low/no smoke) that compression is good.
Seems like all she needs is some catch-up maintenance.
David
Seems like all she needs is some catch-up maintenance.
David
I'll try and get some more video along with swapping glow plugs because the colder it gets the less likely it will be to actually start..
How cold do you ever get in your area? You should be able to easily start at 20* with no block heater. If not, something is wrong.
Personally, the coldest I've ever started without a block heater was 5*, but that's because I usually do not drive my truck in the winter time. And that's on the truck that doesn't start as well as the other two.
It gets to 19 F that I have seen with snow on the ground.. but it hasn't been that cold for a while.
Well, that's a nice and balmy day. You shouldn't ever need a block heater. Get the GPs running and you'll be fine.
