When my 1 year old needed to go in for testing for his chronic ear and sinus infection, they took 6 viles. Out of a baby!!! You know how hard it was for me to hold him down while they repeatedly stuck him?! That was rough...
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Oh boy do I know all about that.. my son cut the end of his finger off and we had to do the same dang thing.. ps his nose picker works fine.
Still waiting on some of the tests to come back, also have to schedule an appt for the ultrasound.
The list grows!
So in favor of time and hassle free assembly Ill likely buy the advance adapters bell housing. Looks like Ill bite the bullet and swap the hydro into the truck now. I figure Its gonna be down prob at least a month, I need to just do it.
Among that Ill pull the oil pan also because the rear main is leaking, Id like to make sure i am not building up an engine with a cracked block, Now I am not sure how these so called cracks hurt it but my oil pressure is pretty good, its 58 psi at idle cold and at least 40 when warm. I think I have seen it 30 one time but that was 120+ degrees and I just climbed a big hill and may have been time to change it.. or it could be that faulty gauge I discovered the other day...
Right now that indicates 40 max.. lol my ohmmeter indicates quite the opposite.
As far as the rear end, I think Ill take @bent72 advice and weld it and run it for a while, swapping rear ends around and buying new mystery axles just dont seem so fun right now. I have lived with welded diffs before so its nothing new and my drive is mostly straight.
While in there I am also putting down some carpet, I might get the Lund kit that summit sells?? It seems reasonably priced, unless someone has a better recommendation, again trying to keep the costs down.
The list grows!
So in favor of time and hassle free assembly Ill likely buy the advance adapters bell housing. Looks like Ill bite the bullet and swap the hydro into the truck now. I figure Its gonna be down prob at least a month, I need to just do it.
Among that Ill pull the oil pan also because the rear main is leaking, Id like to make sure i am not building up an engine with a cracked block, Now I am not sure how these so called cracks hurt it but my oil pressure is pretty good, its 58 psi at idle cold and at least 40 when warm. I think I have seen it 30 one time but that was 120+ degrees and I just climbed a big hill and may have been time to change it.. or it could be that faulty gauge I discovered the other day...
Right now that indicates 40 max.. lol my ohmmeter indicates quite the opposite.
As far as the rear end, I think Ill take @bent72 advice and weld it and run it for a while, swapping rear ends around and buying new mystery axles just dont seem so fun right now. I have lived with welded diffs before so its nothing new and my drive is mostly straight.
While in there I am also putting down some carpet, I might get the Lund kit that summit sells?? It seems reasonably priced, unless someone has a better recommendation, again trying to keep the costs down.
So...catch me up to speed here. You're buying the special bell housing for the SM465? Or is this NV4500 time? Either way, why bother converting to hydraulic clutch if it's currently working?
I'm not pregnant lol!
The bell housing is for the nv4500. Duh..
The bell housing is for the nv4500. Duh..
Because I don't want to mess with it later, I'd like to put the truck together one time. I have all the parts for it and I am taking the dash pad out anyway to get the ac working. It's not that much more work to remove the pedals.
And what is this "duh" you speak of? Ideas float back and forth so fast on this board that I can't keep any of them straight.
And if a thread has been silent for a few days, it's almost assumed that some part of the plan will have changed during the gap.
At least...that's how my threads roll!
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Hey if I got the parts I'll prob use them. It's been silent because we have two trucks right now being built and another three on the waiting list!! Not enough time in the day!
The cracks in the blocks from in the webbing near the inner main bolt of the center 3 caps. Generally if an engine has high miles whether it's cracked or not it will likely stay how it is. The cracks while not good don't mean you have to junk the block. Just limit how much power you're planning to make.
More than 20 hp?
Can the oil pan be removed while in the truck?
Mine, yes
Oh you joined the 6.2 diesel club!
Hmm
, 20 might be pushing it. 
I think you'll be good at that amount. It's more an issue when running a turbo and pushing too much boost and/or too much back pressure from said turbo.
Oil pan can come off in truck. Just have to jack up one side of the engine some.
Ok perfect, I'm not looking for a fire breather, just something reasonable and peppy. And I'm sure it'll make more than 20hp.. I mean cmon.. it's gotta be 21hp.. factory freak ok.. it's a Wednesday motorHmm
I think you'll be good at that amount. It's more an issue when running a turbo and pushing too much boost and/or too much back pressure from said turbo.
Oil pan can come off in truck. Just have to jack up one side of the engine some.
