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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C

Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup. 5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
Overview Gallery Discussion
sreidmx said:
Bolt was too long, I just used a spacer I had lying around..
trying to find a switched hot that stays hot during cranking.. damn diesels
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Is this worse with diesels? I'd think the general ignition/fuel shutoff wire is what you're looking for either way. :dunno:

I'm also a little surprised that you're keeping the second battery. Cranking is much easier now, yes?
 
Cili said:
Not having o2 sensors won't cause it to go into limp mode.
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It was because the fuel trim was positive 20% on one side and negative 20% on the other. Ther is also some other codes that popped up but prior drives nothing ever made it do this and the only thing that changed was the o2 addition
 
campfire said:
Is this worse with diesels? I'd think the general ignition/fuel shutoff wire is what you're looking for either way. :dunno:

I'm also a little surprised that you're keeping the second battery. Cranking is much easier now, yes?
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No second battery and I am using the fuel solenoid wire for my starter relay
 
I would read all the codes and see what's set current. If it sets o2 sensor codes it should just default to open loop fueling and the readings wouldn't matter
 
sreidmx said:
Well some of my stuff showed up yesterday!
The waytek order had the wire sleeve and crimpers,
View attachment 244872
Fyi the metripack is the left and weatherpak on the right. Unless I missed a memo there is something different about how the wire seals crimp or these weather pack crimpers are not for the seals and only for the terminal? Anyone know?
View attachment 244873
Got my main ecu ignition and a few other pinned into the fuseblock. This is so easy it's silly I didn't know about it before.. there is a lot of little things but once you have the stuff, it's a no brained.. compact water tight.. safe!! I'll never go back!!
View attachment 244874
I'll be using one buss for switched 12v and the other for constant. The relays are down the middle.
View attachment 244875
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Weatherpak on the right is what o use on my duetch connectors but only for the crimp
 
Ok did some more recon this morning, had my o2 banks swapped, fixed that, rewired o2 sensors properly, now it appears that either my pedal is bad or there is a problem in the config for pedal setup in the tune causing it to wig out, based on my logs I’m leaning towards the pedal or the wiring from the crappy dorman pigtail.
 
I was going to ask if you modified the harness to the pedal or throttle body. For sure get rid of the aftermarket pigtail. Crimp, solder, and heat shrink any connections in those circuits no exceptions.

I've seen wayyyyy too many problems with that stuff on stock vehicles, let alone swaps. And for the record I've never seen a bad pedal on one of those trucks.
 
I've welded on the stock pedals and they work perfect.
I've never had a bad pedal either

Most common issues are poor repairs/connections, or grounds.
 
Grounds can be cruel and unusual when it comes to throttle signals. I've been down that road with some equipment before
 
Fixed it, there is a bad connection on one of the wires going into the pedal, reseated this and it worked awesome. I’ll order a Delphi connector to fix this properly.
Side note, redid the entire tune, runs great!
 
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