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84 SWB on 42's - Sorry it's not a k5 build

4

4-play

1/2 ton status
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Oct 1, 2007
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Location
Priest River, ID
I decided to start a build thread for me more than anything. I am hoping it will motivate me to get up and get to work. Here is what I'm working with.

84 SWB GMC 1/2 ton 4x4
D60 front 14BFF rear 4.10's
454 TBI-700r4-241 clocked
42x15x16.5 Swamps
4" tuff country front
4" MBT shackle flip rear (MBT= Made by Todd)
3" body (it was on the truck)

I'm really slow with progress, but this board does inspire me. Thanks to those who spend all their money and time on their project and neglect their significant other!!!:thumb:
Truck has somewhere around 7-8" of lift. Stock Chebby wheels. Gonna need some:hack:

GMC42's.jpg
 
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For Christmas I asked for and got a B&M Megashifter for my new 700r4. Bottom line is: I hate the way it works. All these gate or ratchet shifters seem hard to find info on. Basically, I can't find a shifter that works like I want it to for a 4sp auto. The Hurst VMatic2 for 3 speeds is probably the closest I've seen. My biggest complaint is that you can't pull up the "safety lever" and shift all the way to 1st. It goes to OD and then you have to ratchet the damn thing down to 1st. Is this a "racing" shifter? If you buy a ratchet shifter, wouldn't you want to start in 1st and ratchet through the gears? OK, I am calming down now. There may be better shifters, but for cheap bastards like me, I still can't find the right one. We need a comparison post that details how these shifters work and their prices.
 
I'll watch this build.

I love SWB's. They're the lightest weight trucks GM made. As I've said numerous times in the past: best trucks for the power-to-weight ratio.
 
Jays_Jeep

My buddy and I built this Jeep. Just take it for what it is, our first Jeep build. Me underneath! I promise no more Heep pics, his runs mine doesn't. You guys like pics right?

JaysJeep_Todd (3).jpg
 
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Pics of trucks here is like porn. We all love them.
 
Rear_Rock_Guard

Here is a MBT rear diff rock guard. Nothing fancy, but it should work for what I do. Standard non-shaved 14 BFF. I like shaved myself! Oh, don't mind the messy undercarriage, just look at the diff.

Rear_rock_guard.jpg
 
4-play said:
For Christmas I asked for and got a B&M Megashifter for my new 700r4. Bottom line is: I hate the way it works. All these gate or ratchet shifters seem hard to find info on. Basically, I can't find a shifter that works like I want it to for a 4sp auto. The Hurst VMatic2 for 3 speeds is probably the closest I've seen. My biggest complaint is that you can't pull up the "safety lever" and shift all the way to 1st. It goes to OD and then you have to ratchet the damn thing down to 1st. Is this a "racing" shifter? If you buy a ratchet shifter, wouldn't you want to start in 1st and ratchet through the gears? OK, I am calming down now. There may be better shifters, but for cheap bastards like me, I still can't find the right one. We need a comparison post that details how these shifters work and their prices.
Click to expand...

As far as I know, the only way any aftermarket shifter is going to allow you to jump from reverse to 1st without ratcheting is to get a reverse pattern valve body for the transmission. This would change your original pattern (PRNO321) to PRN123O. The down sides of this are it will make the transmission manual shift (no auto up or down shifting) and the labor to install the valve body. Once you've changed the valve body you can get a new "gate" (pattern plate) for the shifter.
 
You don't need a reverse pattern valve body unless you have a full ratchet shifter, which you do. Changing the valve body would be more work than it's worth, especially because ALL reverse patterns are manual, eg, you have to shift every gear, every time. You would be better off returning your megashifter and getting one that is not a ratchet action, but a detent style shifter.
The B&M Sport Shifter has the Megashifter look, but no ratchet action and should be exactly what you need. It's about 50 bucks cheaper too.
To answer your other question, yes the Megashifter is a racing shifter. I have one in my 640 hp '72 Skylark, and I love it to death. However the car sees a little bit less trail time than my Blazer :tongue1:
It's great to slam that shifter with no worries of overshifting while going full tilt in a high 10 second car, but again it's a different vehicle with a different purpose.
 
crashandburn: However the car sees a little bit less trail time than my Blazer :tongue1:
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And probably more trail time than my truck. lol I still want a ratchet, I just thought that if I pulled up the "safety" I could put it in or out of any gear. (no so) Even if it is in neutral, I have to shift to OD to pull the lever and put it in park. Why do they make them all that way? Kinda stupid IMHO.
 
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Ratchet shifters are designed to only go to the next gear to prevent accidentally shifting too far in either direction.
 
Rear tube bumper

Here is my MBT rear bumper. I thought up the concept, took the measurements and then built the bumper at work. Now that it is on, I'm not sure I like it. There won't be a tailgate and my spare tire rack will mount to and pivot on the upper bar. (spare in the bed) The sides are goint to extend after I cut the fenders. Now I need to decide if I should scrap it or keep it or modify it. Hmmmm? You can kinda see the MBT rear shackle flip.

Rear_Bumper.jpg

Rear_Bumper1.jpg
 
nvrenuf said:
Ratchet shifters are designed to only go to the next gear to prevent accidentally shifting too far in either direction.
Click to expand...
I got the whole ratchet part, I just want to be able to pull up the "safety lever" and put it in any gear I want.:D
 
Square front driveshaft pics coming soon. Nothing fancy, just needed some more length. haha, nothing more to say.
 
Square front driveshaft

Here's a pic. Nothin really to see, just another drive shaft. MBT! 2.5" seamless and 2" square tube .25" thick. Standard 1310 joints. This is sorta my tester shaft. I made it extra long and this thing is HEAVY! I'm not sure at this point if the double cardan has enough range for my application. It should work as a spare though.

Front_driveshaft2.jpg

Front_driveshaft3.jpg

DSCN1568 (2).JPG
 
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I am thinking of putting a Blazer/Suburban fuel tank in my truck. I would like the extra weight further back. I'm not sure that I like the look of the tank hangin down, especially with cut rear fenders. Here are some questions that I could use the forum's opinions on:

Should I use a Blazer tank and get rid of the saddle tanks?

Should I use all 3 for extra capacity? Hmmm?

What capacity tanks are there?

Any other suggestions?
 
I've got a Blazer tank (31 gallon) in my 86 SWB. I used one of the stock Blazer crossmembers, some square stock and stock Blazer straps to hang it. I don't think it hangs too low, but I was used to looking at in in my K5. The hardest part was getting the filler neck hooked up. Tried using the stock K5 parts, but that didn't turn out very well. Ended up using some 1 1/4" pipe for the filler. I cut off and welded the overflow tube into it. I can try to get some pictures tomarow if you like.
 
toomany said:
I've got a Blazer tank (31 gallon) in my 86 SWB. I can try to get some pictures tomarow if you like.
Click to expand...

If it's not to much trouble that would be great. I don't know anyone around here with a Blazer I can look at. Thanks for the info.
 
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