85 6.2 head gasket blown ??

[tourus]

1. the truck is an 85 cucv 42,000 mile on it
   
   I will start at the begining early part of Dec. not getting any heat at an idle or if stop at stop sign or red light all heat goes away. meaning the blower blows ice cold air . so I said self check antifreeze level it was a little low topped off. still the same thing no heat at an idle. so said self themastat bad sticking open or something. day off from work put new themastat in along with upper hose and new heater core hoses and lower hose. drive the truck a few days same thing happening. No heat at idle. but now loosing coolant and all over the left side of truck blowing out all over the place. For a while thought there was a leak in radiator due to the fact of no coolant in tank but still all over in side of engine compartment. Found a crack in the recovery tank bought a new one from the dealer 25 bucks. but now when the truck is running alot of bubbles in the recovery tank.
   
   so all that is in December get though January fighting only getting heat going down the road a road speeds. only using the truck to go to work and home 10 miles one way. still losing coolant and blowing out. tried to leave cap loose no differnt some thing fill the recovery tank and blow it out all over side of truck.
   
   so all this is going on still to day drive the truck to work and then homethe recovery tank is full. Alot of bubbles turning up like an air hose in the tank shut engine off hear and see alot of air for a few minutes. then when all cools down a bit suck all coolant out of recovery tank and put it back in the radiator. go to work next day do it all over again at night when get home.
   
   so to fill in the other questions I think?
   1 the truck starts great two cycle of glow plugs starts up perfect no matter what temp sits out at work 20 delow start perfectly.
   2. only smoke is when first starts goes away before high idle kick down kicks down. only 4-5 secs. of white smoke.
   3. truck runs great going down the road. only smoke is when first step on fuel to leave drive way. smoke goes away by the time it shifts into third gear. then no smoke.
   4. truck is started in un heated garge each moring so I can start and see that ther is no smoke only diesel fumes no smell of antifreese at all drive the truck out of garge no smoke at tail pipes.
   5. the engine idles perfect no sound differance sice all this has been happening.
   6. there is no antifreese in engine oil the oil level has been the same since last oil change 2000 mile ago and is nice and thick when check cold and just a little runny when check hot after sits a few minutes. so the antifrees is not going into the oil pan.
   7. research research and 30 years of experance says bubbles in coolant head gasket.
   8. tried some stuff called Iron tite suppose to be fix head gasket prombles thought I could get by until spring be fore the tare down but did not do any thing no diffance doing the same each day after work.
   9. the heater hose will go cold after a minute of idle time.
   
   so I know that the head gasket is blown some were am going to tare down and fix in spring but thought MAYBE that some other thing I might be missing could be the issue. I know adding stuff to "FIX" head gaskets is bull but thought I could get by a few more weeks because I do plow snow with truck that is the only reason have not torn down already.
   
   when I do tare it down going to take the heads to a shop for a vavle job and all new seals and spring and any new valves if need and going to have radiator flushed at a shop. and will be putting all new belts onas well.
   
   I am not the type to just rip off the heads and put a new gasket in and bolt it all back together. I say while I am there I might as well do this and this and this. so I figue the truck will be down 2-3 weeks. I know the job could be done crudly in a few hours but I dont play like that. so I am just looking for ideas of some thing I might be missing and ask me other questions I will try to ansewer them I think I have cover all the bases up front.
   
   sory so long but I am trying to tell the story up front. THANK for your time . I tried to post this in the diesel section but it won't let me so I put it here. I did also post on steel soldiers but here aswell to get any differant point of views.

 

[jake 03]

Sounds like blown head gaskets. What you need to do is get is one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FELK6A and test to be sure. Don't forget to order the test fluid with it,it won't work with out it.

 

[putt putt diesel]

A quick way to check for blown head gasket into coolant passage is to remove the radiator cap, start the engine, and look for bubbles in radiator as the engine warms up. A pressure test would be the best way though. You might also flush your heater core to see if it is plugged and causing the no heat issue.

 

[tRustyK5]

Mine was very similar, never did get coolant in the oil...but it did eventually convince me 100% when it hydro-locked while trying to start it. Never hurt it thankfully.

Get some quality head gaskets, and buck up for ARP studs. I found a couple of the stock TTY head bolts almost finger loose on tear down. I personally think that was 100% of the cause for the head gasket fail on my truck. Do the water pump while it's apart anyways. Sounds like your IP is working just fine by how it starts and stuff.

 

[Blue85]

6.2s will do this. Sometimes compression just pukes the coolant out and you don't get it in the oil or exhaust. When you pull the head, have it checked for flatness.

 

[tourus]

To answer some of the comments which are great the IP pump was rebuilt about 4000 miles ago back in OCT.12. I was going to take the heads to a head shop and have them checked thats wy I was saying the job would take 2-3 weeks to complete. the heater core is new thought it could have been plug so put a new one in 35.00 bucks 2 HRS. of time no big deal.but there is alot of bubbling in radiator on start and heat up. I dont kno if I will put the ARB studs or not or just buy all new bolts. I have been reading alot of pro's and con's about studs. but either ways all new will be going in.

Only one real question about the whole job is vavle ajustment after wards ??

All info I have been reading states there is no ajustment needed if you put the racks back in the same place. I just find it hard to beleive there is no adjustment to check after wards.

All so what head work could be done besides haveing all the valves grinded and sits ground as well and new seals and have springs checked.

how about a port and polish job??

 

[imiceman44]

To answer some of the comments which are great the IP pump was rebuilt about 4000 miles ago back in OCT.12. I was going to take the heads to a head shop and have them checked thats wy I was saying the job would take 2-3 weeks to complete. the heater core is new thought it could have been plug so put a new one in 35.00 bucks 2 HRS. of time no big deal.but there is alot of bubbling in radiator on start and heat up. I dont kno if I will put the ARB studs or not or just buy all new bolts. I have been reading alot of pro's and con's about studs. but either ways all new will be going in.

Only one real question about the whole job is vavle ajustment after wards ??

All info I have been reading states there is no ajustment needed if you put the racks back in the same place. I just find it hard to beleive there is no adjustment to check after wards.

All so what head work could be done besides haveing all the valves grinded and sits ground as well and new seals and have springs checked.

how about a port and polish job??

I think you should check for leaky freeze plug first. If they are all good then it most likely is the gasket.
I just don't feel it's the gasket because of how good it starts and runs.
Everything could be explained by a coolant leak from the block out of a freeze plug and it did happen to me.

 

[tourus]

I WILL CHECK THE FREEZE PLUGS. Thanks for an other tpye of answer. but nevere heard of a freeze plug putting somuch air in the radiator?? but I am up for any thing and every thing new and out of ordenary.

 

[imiceman44]

I WILL CHECK THE FREEZE PLUGS. Thanks for an other tpye of answer. but nevere heard of a freeze plug putting somuch air in the radiator?? but I am up for any thing and every thing new and out of ordenary.

What happens is that it drains the block and when you top off the coolant it has to displace the air inside. When a radiator leaks the engine block is still full so you fill the radiator and no bubbles.
It's easy enough to check the plugs.:thumbup:

 

[diesel4me]

While reading a Motor's Manual at a frends shop,I learned that 6.2's had a problem with the heads ,they have a casting "cutout" that often lets coolant leak out from between the head and block,and it can lead to overheating or "no heat" conditions...they showed a special brass "plug" you could get to seal up that area ,along with some sealant,to "fix" the problem...unfortunately it required pulling the heads off to install them,but chances are the head gaskets would be toasted by then anyways...

Maybe this is why both of my 6.2's have some leakage at the back of the heads on both sides--seems like every one I have crawled under and looked at had a lot of oily residue and dirt accululated above the starter and on the back of the block near the bellhousing--not enough of a leak to drip really,but let it build up into a thick gooey layer...

 

[tourus]

well that is something I will look for while I have it torn down. but the truck has never over heated. would be a good cause of the "no heat". I am in hope that in a few weeks we wiil be out of threat of snow so I can get started o n the project. because I do use the truck to plow snow and it is to early yet to say we are out of danger of snowing a plowable amount.