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85 Blazer manual regulator help

dam88dam

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Newbie here - So my crank on the driver's is toast with bonus that the window is frozen a third of the way down. Driving was not bad at night in the cold but now it's raining.

Can someone point me to a video or tell me how to unstick the window and whether it needs to be up or down to get the regulator out?

I can canabalize another parts truck but before I freeze and drench myself for an hour or two, I'd like a sanity check.

Handle spins, window can't seem to be weaseled up or down. Nothing appears to be jammed in it.
 
The teeth on the inside of the handle may be stripped. Push the door panel in slightly and pop the clip off the handle with a screwdriver to remove it. Then put a pair of vise grips on it to roll it up for the time being ... if your problem is that simple.
 
The teeth on the inside of the handle may be stripped. Push the door panel in slightly and pop the clip off the handle with a screwdriver to remove it. Then put a pair of vise grips on it to roll it up for the time being ... if your problem is that simple.
Thanks for the reply. Teeth are not stripped, I removed the handle and the door panel. The actual mechanism (regulator) rotates but doesn't engage as it is stripped and the window appears to be seized in place 1/3 open. Need to understand how to move the window up or down as needed to replace the regulator. Does the window need to be up or down to remove the reg and who has the best/preferred regulators? Thx.
 
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I'll be following this thread as I wondered how the window motor could be fixed with such a small opening.

As a side note, I ordered the window regulator kit from LMC and re-wired the windows and switch and what an amazing difference. Turns out the window motors on older cars are powerful enough to make the windows go up and down like a newer vehicle, they just never get the right voltage since the power wire is shared and runs through the switch before the motor. The resistance and voltage drop is too great and the window motor doesn't see enough voltage. The regulator and power coming straight from the battery really helped.

Just though I'd mention this since you already have the panels off.
 
The little gear inside the "box" where your window crank goes onto is probably stripped..you may be able to fix it by drilling the rivets out that hold that sheep metal "box" together to get the gear and splined shaft out,and use another gear from another truck at a salvage yard..
I had to fix a few that way on trucks I had in the past...

I found out many GM cars of the same vintage shared the same manual window crank gear,and if you got one from a rear door window off an older 4 door car,that probably never had the window rolled down much, were the ones in best condition..usually like new..
The drivers side always gets the most wear..
 
The little gear inside the "box" where your window crank goes onto is probably stripped..you may be able to fix it by drilling the rivets out that hold that sheep metal "box" together to get the gear and splined shaft out,and use another gear from another truck at a salvage yard..
I had to fix a few that way on trucks I had in the past...

I found out many GM cars of the same vintage shared the same manual window crank gear,and if you got one from a rear door window off an older 4 door car,that probably never had the window rolled down much, were the ones in best condition..usually like new..
The drivers side always gets the most wear..
 
Thanks for the update and the clue to pull a rear window regulator. Previous searching showed some windows need to be up to replace the reg and others need to be down - any clue on that?
I think I'll see about extracting an entire unit - wondering on the years that interchange?
 

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