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85 blazer power windows wiring

RSAP

RSAP

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Lake Havasu/Rancho Cucamonga
Had my windows working although needed to replace the switches and connector where the switch plugs into. Connector wires had broken off. After soldering in new connector and installing new switches, got zero power to the windows.

1) checked fuse PWR WDO which looks good.
2) read something about the 30a 12v fuses. Swapped those to see if one was good.
3) both doors and motors are connected with wiring and switches
4) read another post about ah orange wire in steering column... no idea on that
5) while waiting for new connectors, I ran some speaker wires and was near fuse box.. not sure if something got pulled off. As I look now, seems to be a orange loose wire.. no idea where it belongs in fuse box if at all.
**update: checked pink wire and I am getting power up to the connector. Tried new and old switches, neither works**
Any thoughts?
 
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Orange with black stripe, plugs into fuse panel in the w section. I would plug in IGN or on the upper right side where the windows and ac plug in. this is where the 85 GM book says for the door locks.
 
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Oddly enough they just started working... for the orange and black wire into a spot... then it worked only one side... removed it and without the orange and black wire still works. I’m wondering if it’s something to do with ignition as I saw in another thread.
 
The fuse will have power with key on. If switch culprit the fuse will not have power.
 
Common problem with power windows are the wires at the door jamb to door area,after flexing thousands of times opening & shutting the doors,the strands break inside,and make intermittent connections..
 
Just to add, I believe that is an automatic reset circuit breaker in the power window slot. It could have reset.
:dunno:
 
30 amp circuit breaker on power windows and another 30 amp circuit breaker on power accessories, metal cans in fuse box. Fuse block at top marked W ( two in vertical line) is for power windows front and the power window on rear gate.
 
Possibly not all. In the 80's I would rebuild window motors, under warranty, cause the parts guy pissed me off. So by rebuilding the motor, which mostly consisted of cleaning and new grease, he wouldn't get the part sale or commission.
I don't remember thermal protection at/in the window motor.
 
Wes Harden said:
Possibly not all. In the 80's I would rebuild window motors, under warranty, cause the parts guy pissed me off. So by rebuilding the motor, which mostly consisted of cleaning and new grease, he wouldn't get the part sale or commission.
I don't remember thermal protection at/in the window motor.
Click to expand...

I thought I was the only one who disassembled and cleaned out all the dried up grease. :D

Here’s the thread where I posted pics. Don’t know if you being a paid member allows you to see the pics (I’m seeing red X’s) or if they’re being held hostage by photobucket - could probably email them to you if you really wanted to see. In any case, the thermal contacts are under the white end cap. Maybe it was just in later model motors they were integrated in there. :dunno:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/elec...ake-12v-to-15v-how.310884/page-2#post-3347203
 
Wes Harden said:
Possibly not all. In the 80's I would rebuild window motors, under warranty, cause the parts guy pissed me off. So by rebuilding the motor, which mostly consisted of cleaning and new grease, he wouldn't get the part sale or commission.
I don't remember thermal protection at/in the window motor.
Click to expand...
what is the prefered grease? I was thinking to try permatex brake caliper grease on the window wheels and metal contact points

IMG_1685.jpeg
 
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