4) This sounds like a fun idea, if that's what you're wanting to do. That engine may be a really good choice, given its low age. And, yes, engine, tranny, and many parts will swap between that 1980 motorhome and your Jimmy.
CK5
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85 gmc jimmy "she's got balls"
- Thread starter timmfrit
- Start date
4) This sounds like a fun idea, if that's what you're wanting to do. That engine may be a really good choice, given its low age. And, yes, engine, tranny, and many parts will swap between that 1980 motorhome and your Jimmy.
5) Axles. 1/2-ton chevy axles (10 bolts on differential cover) quickly become a weak link if you get into large tires and trail abuse. Until you get to that point, I wouldn't worry too much about changing them. Though it is worth noting that factory positraction carriers have a habit of fragmenting and wrecking differentials. This can happen under fairly normal driving habits. Not something to freak out about, but if you are driving such a unit (as I am), you should have a plan for replacing it eventually. Best way to check gear ratios is to pull the cover off the differential, but you can check them from the outside. If you still have the RPO tag in the glovebox, it will tell you what options the truck came with, including axle ratio and whether you have the dreaded positraction unit.
3/4-ton trucks (after about 1980) have a somewhat sturdier 14-bolt semi-float axle (basically your axle scaled up a little). Older 3/4-ton trucks and 1-ton trucks have a 14-bolt full-float axle. These have advantages (easier maintenance, much sturdier design, etc), and that is probably what your friend is assuming you'll find underneath that motorhome (although it could also be something else). Are those dual tires underneath there? That would be a headache. Also, those are 8-lug wheels, while your truck is set up for 6-lug wheels. So if you swap, you're stuck changing the lug pattern in the front as well (not hard, but it's extra work). And swapping in an axle, it is important that the gear ratios match between the front and rear axles. Having wheels spin at different speeds causes some interesting things to happen.
6) You really, really don't want the suspension from that. Taking springs off of a 12,000 pound motorhome and putting them on your 5,000 pound will yield a very stiff ride with very little wheel travel. Not any improvement over what you already have.
3/4-ton trucks (after about 1980) have a somewhat sturdier 14-bolt semi-float axle (basically your axle scaled up a little). Older 3/4-ton trucks and 1-ton trucks have a 14-bolt full-float axle. These have advantages (easier maintenance, much sturdier design, etc), and that is probably what your friend is assuming you'll find underneath that motorhome (although it could also be something else). Are those dual tires underneath there? That would be a headache. Also, those are 8-lug wheels, while your truck is set up for 6-lug wheels. So if you swap, you're stuck changing the lug pattern in the front as well (not hard, but it's extra work). And swapping in an axle, it is important that the gear ratios match between the front and rear axles. Having wheels spin at different speeds causes some interesting things to happen.
6) You really, really don't want the suspension from that. Taking springs off of a 12,000 pound motorhome and putting them on your 5,000 pound will yield a very stiff ride with very little wheel travel. Not any improvement over what you already have.
7) There is no such thing as a 100% reliable vehicle. And most 30-year-old trucks are far past the point of being super reliable. So if reliability's your goal, you may find yourself replacing a bunch of stuff to get to that point. Playing catch-up on 30 years' worth of aging and abuse (and perhaps shoddy maintenance as well
).
This is where I am with my Blazer. But it's in need of more than yours is.
As for your steering column, what's wrong with it? Is it simply a loose tilt column? That issue is easily fixed. And I haven't heard of too many other issues that happen with steering columns.
Another rust-belt special, eh? That's encouraging to me. Hardly any of the trucks on this board see salt driving. And most of the pictures are from areas where rust is scarcely comprehended. So it's easy to feel lonely here in the rust belt.
That area underneath the passenger door is one of the things I'm fixing on my K5 right now.
The picture of the front tire reveals an alignment issue. FYI.
Aside from that, it looks like you have a fairly normal truck. I don't see anything strange, except for the front plate. I've never seen a truck that rusty with a Texas license plate.
And what part of Michigan are you in? There are a bunch of CK5 guys in lower Michigan that are a great resource if you need knowledge or parts.
That area underneath the passenger door is one of the things I'm fixing on my K5 right now.
The picture of the front tire reveals an alignment issue. FYI.
Aside from that, it looks like you have a fairly normal truck. I don't see anything strange, except for the front plate. I've never seen a truck that rusty with a Texas license plate.
And what part of Michigan are you in? There are a bunch of CK5 guys in lower Michigan that are a great resource if you need knowledge or parts.
My mom baught this camper, it only went on a couple of trips up north and my sister took it to Florida and back, then it got left up north when my mom moved to Colorado. That was about 6 years ago it's sat and hasn't been started or cared for. I was given it just to get it out there. The interior is toast. I am a tent and sleeping bag kinda camper so I have no need for it and getting it up and ready for a 200 mile trip just doesn't seem feisable. So I was just going to go up and pull the drive train and scrap the rest. Before I picked up Berty here I had planned on building just the motor and dropping it in an old camaro or something of that nature. I like fast capable vehicles, i am still getting my daily a 97 xr7 cogar up to par, i was working on her this week too, blown brake line. I am a third generating trucker or was so I appreciate a good drive, understand the importance of being a safe driver, knowing what my limits are and that of my rig. I had though about asking in what circumstance would i swap them out, for a beefier truck strength wise, performance weather it be speed or ability to go through rougher terrain, or cause mine broke and parts are scares or expensive. I don't plan on being rought on her, but a michigan winter can dump feet of snow. And finding a good camping spot can be miles into the woods, gettin gear close via vehicle increases enjoy ability. I might even want to take a trip over to sleepy bear dunes on the west side of the state. I went there as a kid and want to go back and take my son. He's almost old enough to drive himself, so this truck is also an excuse to spend time together doing something fun and learning something new. Philosophy of mechanics and life if you will. I live in the port huron area. Always been on the water. If I want a boat...need a truck to pull it. This should more than surfice.
This is pretty much the direction that I'm heading with my K5. Great minds think alike!
This is where I am with my Blazer. But it's in need of more than yours is.
As for your steering column, what's wrong with it? Is it simply a loose tilt column? That issue is easily fixed. And I haven't heard of too many other issues that happen with steering columns.
Apparently a privious owner lost the keys and tried starting it with a screw drive and broke something inside. Now if you don't hold the column while turning the wheel it will shift the gears as your turning. So I have a replacement one with aftermarket steering wheel ( for better or worse).
Another rust-belt special, eh? That's encouraging to me. Hardly any of the trucks on this board see salt driving. And most of the pictures are from areas where rust is scarcely comprehended. So it's easy to feel lonely here in the rust belt.
That area underneath the passenger door is one of the things I'm fixing on my K5 right now.
The picture of the front tire reveals an alignment issue. FYI.
Aside from that, it looks like you have a fairly normal truck. I don't see anything strange, except for the front plate. I've never seen a truck that rusty with a Texas license plate.
And what part of Michigan are you in? There are a bunch of CK5 guys in lower Michigan that are a great resource if you need knowledge or parts.
I've seen many Cars and trucks rust away over time. From nice and new to holey pos. It is just one of those things around here. So the rust don't bother me to much...but I would like to keep the elements outside and the heat in. I have a Lincoln 225 buzz box I will be welding in new floor and rockers. My buddy's uncle was a welder and I have some mig welding experience so I think I can do it.
5) Axles. 1/2-ton chevy axles (10 bolts on differential cover) quickly become a weak link if you get into large tires and trail abuse. Until you get to that point, I wouldn't worry too much about changing them. Though it is worth noting that factory positraction carriers have a habit of fragmenting and wrecking differentials. This can happen under fairly normal driving habits. Not something to freak out about, but if you are driving such a unit (as I am), you should have a plan for replacing it eventually. Best way to check gear ratios is to pull the cover off the differential, but you can check them from the outside. If you still have the RPO tag in the glovebox, it will tell you what options the truck came with, including axle ratio and whether you have the dreaded positraction unit.
3/4-ton trucks (after about 1980) have a somewhat sturdier 14-bolt semi-float axle (basically your axle scaled up a little). Older 3/4-ton trucks and 1-ton trucks have a 14-bolt full-float axle. These have advantages (easier maintenance, much sturdier design, etc), and that is probably what your friend is assuming you'll find underneath that motorhome (although it could also be something else). Are those dual tires underneath there? That would be a headache. Also, those are 8-lug wheels, while your truck is set up for 6-lug wheels. So if you swap, you're stuck changing the lug pattern in the front as well (not hard, but it's extra work). And swapping in an axle, it is important that the gear ratios match between the front and rear axles. Having wheels spin at different speeds causes some interesting things to happen.
6) You really, really don't want the suspension from that. Taking springs off of a 12,000 pound motorhome and putting them on your 5,000 pound will yield a very stiff ride with very little wheel travel. Not any improvement over what you already have.
No, they are single truck tires. I had heard somewhere if you take out a couple leafs you'll get a smooth ride and a bit of a lift.
Ok. Assuming your new column matches the vehicle, you should be able to swap the steering wheel quite easily if you decide you want to keep your old one.
Ok. I thought you were talking about just throwing the springs on there as-is. If you're willing to modify things, all sorts of possibilities open up.
Factors to consider with that axle include:
1.) Spring mount spacing.
2.) Shock mount placement (both width and direction).
These need to match your K5's springs and shock mounts. If they are not correct, they can be cut off and moved to the correct location (be sure you are comfortable trusting your welds if you do this). Not a big deal if you have a welding background. There are ample numbers of threads on here detailing this procedure.
3.) Wheel-mounting-surface width. This is somewhat flexible; the biggest consideration is that your tires may contact sheet metal if the WMS distance is narrower or wider than your stock axle.
4.) Lug pattern. As said before, the van axle is 8-lug, so you'll either wind up with mismatching wheels or converting your front axle to match. Not a big deal either way.
5.) Springs. Yes, you can reuse the springs if you're willing to do a little work. Leaves can be removed (you may or may not be able to remove enough leaves to make this comfortable). They may be longer or shorter than your existing springs. So the shackle mounts may have to move in order to accommodate. Lift might happen (depending on the spring arch), but if you're trying to wind up with stock-stiffness springs that are slightly taller you might as well pick up a cheap set of blocks. That saves the cost and hassle of modifying the suspension components.
Adding height without changing spring rate does not increase the spring travel, so you won't be any better off for rock crawling. But you will have greater ground-body clearance for tearing through snowdrifts.
I would yank the engine out of that camper, and leave the rest go.
Martin
Martin
Keep the hub caps. Maybe the wheels, too, depending on the size.
There are still folks out there who like those dog dish caps.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Van width 14bff???
Or sf?
Or sf?
Officially taking a trip up north next weekend. I'll be going up with some family camping but while I'm there...I will be identifying the hardware on the motor home. I know where to look on the engine for the casting number along the back side. But I couldn't tell a 700r4 from a th400 if my life depended on it. Or how to tell a 14 bolt from a dana 60...so if anyone could tell me how to differentiate it would be greatly appreciated. I'll obviously take pictures of it all. This will be the first weekend ive had off since the 4th, and only my 3rd this year as I usually work 7 days a week. That being said here are some pictures from my office....30 ft off the shop floor...
Not to be a jerk, but I really think you are over estimating the value of this motor home. Yank the drivetrain, pull off the hub caps, and haul the balance to iron.
Martin
Martin
