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85 k10 - Emissions delete questions

I can only speculate, but GM did the same thing on the Olds 307 too...conveniently, after the 305 and 307 were both chosen to replace the respective divisions 350's. As the story goes, the 305 was supposed to mean the demise of the SBC 350. I find it odd GM made that miscalculation.

From testing I'd seen from folks like Vizard, the large CFM carbs help torque on the smaller motors. This flies in the face of "conventional" carb wisdom, but if you've been around long enough, you'll recall that the way that carb sizing was previously recommended, was even more basic than it is now.

I would speculate that since the difference is on the primary side, the additional CFM helped before the secondaries came into play. Probably let GM use the secondaries less often, which likely tended to improve economy, drive down emissions, and "feel" better to the driver since the tuning of the primaries is more precise.

Side note, the HO 305 in the Monte SS of the same vintages got the 750 variant. I don't know much about the b-bodies, but I bet the heavier cars with worse gearing probably got 800's. As the Old's 442 got the 800 as well, but had 3.42s vs. the SS' 3.73, I feel that also indicates GMs rationale.

AFAIK the 800 was the norm on 305 trucks. I didnt pull a ton of them off the trucks back in the day, but if I knew the truck was a 305, invariably I found an 800. I dont know if the bad gearing/800CFM combination was across the board on the truck 305. I cant recall if the 305 trucks could have been had with 3.73's. Would be interesting to know...OP might be able to answer that depending on the gears in this particular rig, if OEM.
I’ll check the option sheet and see if I can find any info on gears. Although my guess is 3.42 unless it had a factory tow package that would have given it lower gears. About to tow it over to my house to work on it this week. Going to order an edelbrock non egr intake, a new quadrajet and a non ESC distributor. The only thing I’m not totally clear on yet is whatever controls the converter lock up but I haven’t had a chance to look for it or trace any hoses/wires yet.
 
Got her back to my shop. Believe I’ve found the torque converter lock up switch, here is a pic if someone can clarify. Looks like it has a vacuum nipple on it but there’s nothing connected to it and it seemed to be working when we drove it home so not sure what’s going on there.ED6898D1-2037-4CF5-B241-D7B814820A2A.jpeg

Also not sure what this switch is here. It’s on the passenger side rear of the intake, wires going into a switch and the output is 2 vacuum lines, one which goes to the intake behind the carb and one that appears to T into some other lines going to the EGR valve. Any ideas?
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Also, if anyone has any advice on the best way to get rid of the AIR stuff... I’ve already started spraying the line fittings with PB. I was planning on removing them and just plugging them with brass pipe plugs provided they come out, would like to get rid of them all to clean up the engine bay but if there is a better way to do it I’m all ears.
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Cant think of any other way to remove AIR but to unthread them.

As I recall they are not pipe thread. Probably need some confirmation on that, but I seem to recall that they are a standard thread, just fine vs. coarse.
 
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Cant think of any other way to remove AIR but to unthread them.

As I recall they are not pipe thread. Probably need some confirmation on, but I seem to recall that they are a standard thread, just fine vs. coarse.
So I will plug them with a bolt then I guess
 
I cheated and used bolt cutters to snip off the air pipes,then brazed the flattened ends shut..after a long hunt to try finding the correct "plugs" with the right metric threads and flare,I found this way faster and easier.

One guy I know who had a Ford,some previous owner took the air pipes out of the exhaust manifolds ,and used old spark plugs to plug off the ports..he was not very mechanically inclined,but was willing to learn how to do oil changes,tune ups, "easy stuff",so one day he decided to do a tune up..he did OK as far as getting the spark plugs in and gapped,but he goofed up and put one of the spark plug wires on one of the spark plugs used to plug the manifold hole--it shot flames and backfired out of the exhaust when he started it up--and called me to ask if I'd come over and see what he'd done wrong!..:rotfl:
 
Got all the smog stuff pulled off, it is amazing that the engine even ran, most all the vacuum connections were rotten or already broken off, charcoal can bottom was gone too. Removed smog pump, air pump and all vacuum lines except cruise and what I think is the lone hose that has to do with TC lockup. Also unplugged ESC from the controller behind the glovebox and cut the wires off flush at the firewall. New parts should arrive tomorrow.
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The wires for the TC lockup switch
(Yellow an brown) do they go to the trans or else were
 
The wires for the TC lockup switch
(Yellow an brown) do they go to the trans or else were
Actually, the picture I posted above where I said I thought I had found the TC lockup switch, that turned out to be a vacuum switch for the electronic spark control. The TC switch is actually on the driver side of the firewall.
 
Can you post a picture of it please
I'm wondering if it's the same for my 83.
I omitted alot of the emissions stuff an went with a crate motor since the original was tired.
Only thing I have for the trans is the tv cable.
Still need to see were my wires from the trans go to
 
Can you post a picture of it please
I'm wondering if it's the same for my 83.
I omitted alot of the emissions stuff an went with a crate motor since the original was tired.
Only thing I have for the trans is the tv cable.
Still need to see were my wires from the trans go to
This is what I believe is the switch. Right behind the booster.
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It has a single vacuum line which goes to a block connection that used to hold other vacuum lines as well.
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And that used to connect to the manifold beside the thermostat housing
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So I guess I will just hook it to manifold vacuum when I put the new intake on. This and the vacuum advance and cruise control should be the only lines left.
 
Today’s progress, got new intake on, installed new spark plugs and new distributor and got one valve cover off. Replacing VC gaskets because that was the only oil leak. Going to have to pull one of the AC compressor brackets to get the driver side cover off. Man, these newer trucks are a lot more of a bear to work on with AC and other crap in the way. The seller wasn’t lying about the crate engine having 10k miles on it. Looks like new under valve covers and in the lifter valley. New carb will be here Friday so hoping to get everything else done tomorrow and be ready for a quick fire up Friday. I really want to remove these air lines from the manifolds somehow but I’m scared to try and bust the fittings loose. Have been spraying with PB for a few days now but couldn’t seem to find a wrench that fit them tight today, metric or SAE. Are they some kind of weird size? Any advice on removing them or a hack to “remove them”. I was thinking of cutting the lines and pinching them flat. One is already like that. I am going to tell my buddy to get new manifolds in the near future.
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Engine is done and ready to go except for the carb. It comes tomorrow. Removed AIR pipes and got 1/2x20 bolts that threaded in the hole pretty well. Fingers crossed for a quick fire up tomorrow and no leaks. Engine bay is certainly much cleaner.
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Did you do a static timing for now.
What all have you replaced for now
Haven’t put a timing light on it yet obviously but I just installed the distributor where it was before. As of now I have replaced the intake and distributor and have a new quadrajet coming tomorrow. Also plugs and wires. And removed electronic spark control and every piece of smog equipment.
 
Got her going tonight. Cranked right up after I installed the new carb! Thanks @kennyw for the tip. It had exhaust leaks before but I guess they were not as pronounced because the engine was running so poorly due to the disfunctional smog equipment, but when I first fired it up it had a terrible leak from the rear of the passenger side manifold. So I replaced the manifold gaskets on that side and now it is much better but still has some ticks. I am betting the manifolds are cracked under the heat shields as I can’t feel any more leaks coming from the mating surfaces. Anyway, it’s running worlds better, smooth idle, revs good, fires up instantly... haven’t had a chance to drive it yet but will do that in the morning. Fingers crossed that the lockup will still engage. I have the vacuum line from the switch on the firewall ran to full manifold vacuum which is how it was before, minus the thermal vacuum connector that it and a bunch of EGR crap used to plug into, whatever that is.
 
Much better!
But I would suggest that he get a larger diameter air cleaner and filter. I saw a 400 small block suck the lid downwards with one of those years ago. When we convinced him to get a bigger one and cut a hole in the hood of his Monza, it ran lots better!
 
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