85 K30 dually

[Goose]

Starting family, gotta cut back on some toys....

1983 K30 dually, 6.2NA, SM465(hydro), D70HD, D60, 4.11s
Exhaust is a little rusty, but still working, not loud.
Tires are about done.

I spent about $2400 this last year on brakes and suspension:
New master cylinder and hydro boost unit, new extended brake lines front and rear. New rear hard line from under cab to wheel cylinders.
New rear drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders. New D70 u-bolt style yoke. New springs front/rear. New ORD front upper spring hangers. Greasable bushings. Rebuild kingpin, seals, repacked front bearings. HD tube bumber with Warn 8k winch. PTO off of transfercase with shaft to hydraulic pump, plumbed to rear with quick disconnects. It also has line lock to front brakes and e-brake works, so you can set all four tires if you really don't want to move. (nice if winching something big)
Truck is really set up to do some work. Would be ideal for tree cutting/hauling, esp with a hydraulic splitter.

Issues include having death wobble. Getting alignment on 07/24 to see what that does, about everything else is new or solid. Water pump drips every couple weeks and used a little coolant on long trip. (3 hrs) Short trips (1.5hrs) at 55-60 uses no coolant. Gets about 15mpg at 55-60, 12mpg at 70-75.

Asking $4500.
I can take pic of whatever you want and post it.
Hear are a few to start with.

 

[Goose]

Some more pics

 

[thatK30guy]

Bruce, is this truck a cab&chassis model or a standard long wheelbase? Check your RPO sticker in the glove box for the length. It should read either 131.5" or 135.5".

 

[thatK30guy]

Oh yeah, whats the scoop on the front and rear springs? They look arched pretty good and I see the blocks in the rear to raise the overload springs.

 

[Goose]

The RPO says 131.5 However, the bed is 8'x8' and the frame is re-enforced behind the cab. I can't tell, but it may have been lengthened a few inches. I say this because the 8' bed seemed odd.

Anyway, the springs are 4" lift. HD front and normal rear (couldn't get HD rears). The overloads are custom arched. After mounting the new main springs and buying overloads I took measurements to the spring shop and had the overloads arched to within a couple inches of the brackets the rest on when loaded.

The spring setup took a lot of time and energy to get correct.

 

[kennyw]

Tires are about done.

Issues include having death wobble.

I would try and swap the outer rear tires to the front first and see if it changes anything. Worn out tires can be out of balance or have broken belts that start the DW cycle. Also have you put a new stabilizer on it yet? Getting rid of the DW will definitly make it easier to sell.

 

[Goose]

Thanks, just got it alinged today. They said is was toed in alot. Also the steering box has some play, which may contribute.

Having driven it after the alignment it feels much better. I have'nt hit any RR tracks or other spots that makes it wobble yet. The DW isn't constant by any means, just some road conditions cause it if I hit a rough spot at about 45-50mph. Like I said, we'll see what the alignment did.

 

[joecowap]

Is this truck still available?? Are you firm on your price?

Interested in trades? Like possibly a sport quad?


Thanks, Joe

 

[Goose]

Yes the truck is still available.
I'm taking a $1400 hit with the price, so it's firm.
I got the truck aligned and it drives better, the shop pointed out the steering wheel play coming from the steering box which is prolly the looseness causing the DW when I hit the local RR tracks. I also just bought some SRW front hubs for it. (not installed yet)

 

[BillinAr]

Death Wobble continues for the White Zombie

Hello all, I just joined the forum and thought I'd try to revive discussing the problem with this particular K-30. I picked this truck up from my brother a while back and I continue battling the Death Wobble. I'm hoping to get some good advice on what to do in the future but for now, a quick update. The wobble is really bad at certain points (45mph and one sided bump) that it has ruined the new steering stabilizer. I need to replace the rod ends in order to eliminate them, but have not done so yet. What has helped is playing with the toe since it is inexpensive and the tires are not so hot anyway. Bringing the toe in caused the problem to worsen, so I've adjusted it out to the point of the truck pulling to the right. The wobble has subsided for now but I know I've only masked the problem temperarily. My adjustment was just to turn the sleeve with out disconnecting the rod ends. Since this helped, I want to get the pulling issue addressed. Will disconnecting the ends so I can adjust the rod toward the left help if I count the threads and keep the same spread? It is my next step but in the back of my mind, I think I might be thinking about the relationship wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks, Bill
PS If I'm posting in the wrong spot, please let me know. I have not navigated the site yet and don't know exactly where I'm at==For Sale section maybe?

 

[kennyw]

You are posting in the wrong spot (for sale/classifieds) so you won't get very many technical responses here. The garage would probably be one of the best places to search for "death wobble" to get some more information about the common causes.

You should look into rebuilding the kingpins, look for any worn steering components, replace the worn out tires, then get it aligned again...