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85 K30 Project

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If with the inner spacer I'll push the outer tire out past the hub centric, then even with the tapered ring that tire will not be centered correct? I'm definitely not against installing longer studs, but with the inner spacer wouldn't I need to taper the outer rim to keep it centered? Or use an inner spacer that had some centering ring on the ID, if there is even enough room for such?
 
You'd need to use a hub ring to center the outer dual.

With the Dodge lug nuts you remove the little ring for the lugs nuts. The Dodge ones have that in the lug nuts.

Like these ebay.com/itm/381940825442
 
We had issues with those spacers on a backhoe trailer at work. Dingaling tire shop put them on backwards a few times and then the wheels would come loose. Finally ditched them for some extra large ford style lug nuts. I would run an actual dually spacer that is hub centric also.
 
as said the lugs stay tight as the tapper lug ring acts as a spring when tight . holds a grip .

and the outer tires spaced out wont hit the narrow section of the hub and center with a spacer in the middle .

search my old threads I have posted a link to correct spacers a few times over the years . ( at work now don't have my links ) will post up tonight when home for ya .

not to diss bfg tires but there fatter than most . those coopers I tried cleared much better. . . . if need be you might wana keep your eye's open for a dana 70hd wide rear . then do flairs on the flat bed.
 
I can't remember now but I have dually studs front and rear on my k5 and I believe the ones from carquest were longer but it might be the ones from napa.Stupid crappy memory!
 
kennyw said:
I have posted part numbers of longer studs before. I will see if I can find it.
Click to expand...

Found your post, thanks!

The stock wheel stud is a DORMAN Part # 610194
(Thread; 9/16-18; Knurl Dia.: .621"; Length: 3-17/32"; Shoulder Length: 1-5/16")

There is a DORMAN 610359 that is 9/16" longer
(Thread: 9/16"-18; Knurl Dia: .625"; Length: 4-1/32"; Shoulder Length 1-15/32")

I plan to take one side apart today and measure how deep the hub centric alignment "part" is, see if with a 1/4" spacer I'll still be riding on it. Otherwise it doesn't appear anyone makes a ~1/4" spacer that includes a machined lip to maintain alignment.

If worst comes to worse I can pull the axle hub, make the centric deeper with a weld bead and machine.
 
I never did get around to measuring the hub. But having the hub extended with weld and re machining was my expectation.
 
So it rained most of the day, but I did take a quick look, the centric/alignment surface doesn't extend beyond the acorn ring, so I'll for-sure have to mod the hub.

Even with only a 1/8" gap between the tires I'm not in a huge hurry to get it done, probably still OK for ~1500lbs of load before the tires touch. I'll probably incorporate the hub mod while adding a locker at some point this summer.

RLC must be really busy, any members here in the bumper building business?
 
Anyone recommend a decent sized (50+ gallon) saddle fuel tank? These dual 18s are driving me nuts!

Each side has room for a 50" long 26" wide (edge of the bed to inner frame) and probably 16-20" deep, don't really want to use up any bed space, even though that would be the easiest.
 
never heard of one . yet . and there 20gal size in long bed .

think about adding in a 31 gal blazer tank or 40 gal suburban in the rear with some work .
 
Just noticed this thread, cool k30! I cant believe how clean it is. I noticed you have the same AC setup Ethel does, I am in the middle of replacing the lines in mine along with a parallel flow condensor, once I get it going again Ill report back with the results.. I hope it works good because I am in the 120+ zone..
 
That's great, I figured it was some custom/hack job AC system. Please let me know your source of parts as mine has cut/missing lines.
 
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