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85 K5 Blazer

zredleg

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I have a 1985 K5 Blazer which rides really rough. I have replaced the shocks and put a 3 inch body lift on(i know that changes some things about the ride) and new bushings. I want a little softer ride and am wondering where do I start and what do i need to replace.
 
Better springs, what shocks did you buy? As some bilstein 5100s will be far better than any lift company or rancho, monroe etc shock.
 
Springs and shocks. Also some quality bumpstops that hit their pads before the shock bottoms out is important to.

And a body lift does not effect the way it rides, it effects the center of gravity and handling, it will not ride rougher or smoother.

I would find some easy ride springs, Tuff country makes a good set, I run BDS smooth rides and they ride pretty nice. Some adjustable shocks, Rancho 9000s or equivalent, and some good bumpstops. To save money I just lowered my factory ones, they are not the best option, but I can buy a quality one and not have to change my mounting brackets up.
 
Your original post is too vague. What is the current suspension? Stock? Lifted? New shocks? Worn shocks? No shocks?

Martin
 
Re

Martin,
Yeah your right it was vague.. Everything is stock with the exception of the new shocks, bushings and new body lift. The vehicle was neglected for some time before I got a hold of it so it rebuilding quite a bit so it is a comfortable ride. Any helpis appreciated.
Thanks Z
 
Could be as simple as the tires you're running... I've had all kinds of vehicles through out the years that completely changed after different tires where on... Both ways, from good to bad and bad to good... Even if the tires look newer, they can still ride like junk depending on the age or brand...
 
The pressure in your tires might be too high too. That can contribute to a rough ride.

A stock blazer really doesn't ride too well when you compare it to a car but compare it to a leaf sprung one ton truck that is unloaded and you will thinks its as smooth as butter
 
The body lift eliminates any "cushion" and "give" the factory rubber mounts might give. This exaggerates any harshness in the suspension resulting in a "jarring" in some situation. Gs shocks make for a stiffer ride. Rancho actually makes a very nice riding shock...RS9000xl. They're not cheap,but on the softest setting they ride very nice and give great flex off road. On the stiffest setting they prevent sway when loaded down or towing. Superlift used to offer a hydraulic shock that gave an excellent ride,even with the old school stiff springs. Not sure if they are still offered. I doubt you're contacting the bump stops with a stock set-up,unless your springs are really shot. Do you hear clacking or any noise when hitting rough spots in the road? Could be you have some fatigued leafs...maybe even a cracked one or two. Take good look at those leafs.
 
Blazer ride

I am running some brand new BF Goodrich ATs that are 33x10.50. I am headed to the 4x4 store today to see if they have any new springs and possible some shocks. I have been looking at the Rancho 9Ks but it would an another 600 just for the shocks since i have six. I appreciate all the help.
Z
 
What pressure are you running those at, and under what conditions are you unhappy with the ride quality?

Mine rides quite rough at 40PSI (same tires as you), on road or off, but airing them down to 20PSI off road the change is nothing short of miraculous. In my case, based on completely arbitrary personal criteria, it's easily a 50% better ride aired down.

As mentioned, the front springs may be fatigued and contacting the bumpstops, which WILL give a very jarring, harsh ride on the street. BTDT, new springs are the "right" fix, I trimmed the front bumpstops (as I don't want to buy springs yet) because it was obvious they were contacting the u-bolt plates on the front. If you still have the front diff "pinion snubber", that would be good to remove too if contact is an issue, and you don't intend on replacing the springs.
 
I am going to buy the new springs today and see how that works because I believe they are pretty shot. I will try airing down the tires too. I dont think I am bottoming out yet. What are your thoughts on crate engines
and replacement trannies? Any recommendations?
Z
 
9 times out of 10 they are valved for a single shock application. So when you add 2, it more or less doubles the effective valving and dampening of the shocks. Try it with just one, it could be simply that alone is your problem. Your springs can possibly still be worn, but your 2 shocks up front, 4 in all could be the main problem.

I would say go out and buy just 4 nice adjustable shocks. Keep in mind if you buy springs, and for example you lift it, the shocks might end up being to short. So try and do it as a one time all at once deal.
 
9 times out of 10 they are valved for a single shock application. So when you add 2, it more or less doubles the effective valving and dampening of the shocks. Try it with just one, it could be simply that alone is your problem. Your springs can possibly still be worn, but your 2 shocks up front, 4 in all could be the main problem.

I would say go out and buy just 4 nice adjustable shocks. Keep in mind if you buy springs, and for example you lift it, the shocks might end up being to short. So try and do it as a one time all at once deal.
Ok that make perfect sense. I will do that first and see if thats the issue. Thanks
Z
 
No problem, i delt with that problem a few years ago and finally tried taking one off.

I run the RS90xx on my Suburban, I like them alot. Im about to order 2 more for the rear and switch out the old junk lift shocks that I had back there. You can order them to a length that you so desire as well. I run a F-250 shock tower in the front and mine are quite a bit longer than the shocks that came off. Mine has about 6in of uptravel, and in theory 8in of down. So I now have more down in theory than my old shocks had in total travel. Now my springs wont let me use all that, but I wanted the springs to bottom out before the shocks did, so my shocks are not the limiting strap. I have drove these on the road like this, and done some rough driving around, and they work great. No complaints.

WARNING. These adjustable shocks are a Monotube design. Unlike your old lift shocks. If you dent Monotubes, the shock will not work anymore. As the inner piston will hit the dent and tear it all up, ruining the shock.. Twintubes can be dented to a point and have no noticeable difference.

Bilstein makes a good set too, just personal preference.
 
My '85 Jimmy is a diesel and came with dual front shocks. When I lifted it and put the Rancho 9000s on I went to single. Figure OEM shocks are just adequate at best. These aftermarket performance shocks eliminate the need for dual shocks. They are rates to work just fine alone and exceed original equipment performance. Plus,the 9000s are adjustable. If you really feel you need more dampening...there ya go! Set them on "stiff"
 

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