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85 K5 --- CHOPPED! Edition

1985 K5 blazer -- converting to full convertible
@nvrenuf — looks like you cut yours up high, Colorado blazer cut his down low...Any thoughts on if one way is better vs the other?
 
I cut mine up high simply because I'm very lucky to have a rust free Blazer so I wanted to keep most of the original post. So many of these trucks develop rust on the lower art of the pillar or cowl, I just didn't want to disturb those areas. I really don't think it would make any difference in the job.
 
I cut mine up high simply because I'm very lucky to have a rust free Blazer so I wanted to keep most of the original post. So many of these trucks develop rust on the lower art of the pillar or cowl, I just didn't want to disturb those areas. I really don't think it would make any difference in the job.

Good deal — I’ve just got the windshield removed and I found some surprise rust at the bottom inside of the A pillar on the inside of the truck side of the windshield flange. So now it’s dash removal and some additional grinding.

Did you find that your tub sides moved as much as tRustyk5 saw? It seems like folks are 50/50 on body flex or tub distortion when they cut the roof.
 

Thanks NVRENUF. I found a great 1973 2WD donor truck with what looks to be a factory rollbar that attaches to both the floor and to the back fenders. I thought I had read that there's a difference in the floor between the 73 to 75 and the 89 to 91. Does anyone know that for certain?

Also, what is the final word on creating rocker boxes to reinforce the floor. What's the best method and is there a good writeup on this step?
 
@Morris75 I haven't found a write-up on the rocker boxes - if you do, please let me know. My current plan is a set of DIY4x sliders to help support the rocker panel and a factory-ish roll bar to help the sides of the tub from falling outward. I will note that I have neither of these yet, so I am planning to drive it for the next couple weeks as is and add those parts as they arrive.

I think this was one of the earliest writeups of the conversion that I could find: https://ck5.com/forums/resources/full-convertible-conversion.35/
He appears to not add any reinforcement at the time of the conversion.
 
Good deal — I’ve just got the windshield removed and I found some surprise rust at the bottom inside of the A pillar on the inside of the truck side of the windshield flange. So now it’s dash removal and some additional grinding.

Did you find that your tub sides moved as much as tRustyk5 saw? It seems like folks are 50/50 on body flex or tub distortion when they cut the roof.

I did find some surface rust on the windshield flange but nothing scary. I've wire wheeled and primed it so hopefully it's stopped.

I have purposely not driven the truck yet because I'm afraid of tub flex. I haven't noticed movement when I get in & out working on it but if I push / pull on the windshield frame it will move.

Thanks NVRENUF. I found a great 1973 2WD donor truck with what looks to be a factory rollbar that attaches to both the floor and to the back fenders. I thought I had read that there's a difference in the floor between the 73 to 75 and the 89 to 91. Does anyone know that for certain?

Also, what is the final word on creating rocker boxes to reinforce the floor. What's the best method and is there a good writeup on this step?

There is a difference in floor height, the later tubs ('83+ ?) have a lower floor for the rear passenger footwells.
 
Updates from a big weekend.....

Got the top cut off and the new frame tacked in place.

As far as method, I measured 3 spots on the windshield. center, and 16" left and right. Used some painters tape to mark the spots. My measurement was 24 3/8.

I was lucky that the doner frame I got was rust free and the A pillars were long. I was able to cut my A pillars down below the surprise rust I found under the windshield gasket. and then start cutting the doner frame down to fit.

One thing that really surprised me at first - The frame gets wider as it goes down toward the body. When I first held up the frame to test fit it, it stuck out past the doors given the height of the original A pillars.....Mega pucker factor as for a moment I thought my project was totally eff'd.

Building on posts from earlier and a couple other recommendations I would throw in:
1. Use a porta band to cut down the doner frame instead of a sawsall. Way neater for me to keep the cuts clean and straight.
2. Sneak up on your final measurement - I cut ~1" at a time until I got within 1" then I went to 1/4 - 3/8 cuts.
3. Make sure that your doner frame A pillars are evenly long. On mine, the LF side was ~1" longer than the right. I didn't catch this for a bit. This can become significant because my right side measurement was 24 1/2, so I stopped there. My left side was 25 1/4. When I took the 1/2" off of the left side, the right side opening came down to 24 3/8.
4. Focus on making cuts such that the A pillars touch with minimal gap -- given the super thin sheet metal, this will only make final weld up easier.
5. I made some holding pins out of 3/4 EMT conduit that I pounded to mimic the shape of the A pillar channel.
6. I used the windshield gasket when I was done to do a final test fit.

Enjoy some photos!

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:popcorn:

So I found my donor yesterday. This web site is boosting my confidence. Just need to find an '89 to 91 to build it on now.
 
Regarding body flex -- The truck did not fold in half. But.....the tops of the doors are most definitely closer than the bottom of the doors. I've got some pics here for you to see.

I'll be installing some DIY4x sliders this week. I'll repost after on how much the flex is reduced/eliminated.

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Ok, you scared the crap out of me because I used the 23.5" measurement but that was from tip to tip of the pinch weld. I almost fell out of my chair. LOL
 
LOL!
Did you test your gasket or mock up your window? What's your date for re-install??
 
I have not, that's a great idea. I'll do that this weekend and see how it fits, if you see a big fire at my place you'll know it was wrong. :rotfl:

No date for reinstall yet, I'm going to paint / bedline / cage it before reinstalling the glass.
 
what are you using for interior coating? I've been searching for a DIY coating to provide some sound deadening, protection and look good. I was thinking of perhaps using what they use for boat surfaces...
 
I bought a Raptor liner kit that I'll spray in.
 
#FAIL

Got some disappointing news today.....windshield doesn't quite fit. The angle on the passenger side bracket doesn't match so the top corner is too far toward the rear of the truck. coming....but it's back into the garage to get chopped.....Again.

#FAIL
 
#FAIL

Got some disappointing news today.....windshield doesn't quite fit. The angle on the passenger side bracket doesn't match so the top corner is too far toward the rear of the truck. coming....but it's back into the garage to get chopped.....Again.

#FAIL
Can you post pics or elaborate a little? This is important info, thanks for sharing it!!
 
#FAIL

Got some disappointing news today.....windshield doesn't quite fit. The angle on the passenger side bracket doesn't match so the top corner is too far toward the rear of the truck. coming....but it's back into the garage to get chopped.....Again.

#FAIL
That sucks man, keep after it, the full vert will be so worth it.
 
Do you mean, the A pillar posts aren't square to one another? Or is the shape of the windshield "groove" different top vs bottom?
 
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