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85 K5 --- CHOPPED! Edition
- Thread starter SuperCAN
- Start date
1985 K5 blazer -- converting to full convertible
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SuperCAN
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hey! sorry for the delays. We had 2 weeks of back to back audits at work.
Here are some pics of the windshield fitted up with gasket and you can see on the right side that the windshield is about 1/4" too high.
From the side you can sort of see that the A pillar is rotated back toward the rear of the truck. I used an inclinometer and the right side is ~1.5° rotated back to far. So the big takeaway here is --- Yes, the opening needs to be the same size AND the A pillar angle needs to match the original.
Seem so obvious now......<smacks forehead>
I hope that the community at large benefits from this LOL - I don't think I've read anywhere about double checking the angle - just the size.
Next step is to cut right side A pillar and try and shim it up to rotate it forward.
Here are some pics of the windshield fitted up with gasket and you can see on the right side that the windshield is about 1/4" too high.
From the side you can sort of see that the A pillar is rotated back toward the rear of the truck. I used an inclinometer and the right side is ~1.5° rotated back to far. So the big takeaway here is --- Yes, the opening needs to be the same size AND the A pillar angle needs to match the original.
Seem so obvious now......<smacks forehead>
I hope that the community at large benefits from this LOL - I don't think I've read anywhere about double checking the angle - just the size.
Next step is to cut right side A pillar and try and shim it up to rotate it forward.
So when you say "rotated" you're talking about the angle of the windshield post as it tilts front to rear? Meaning your donor frame was not at the same angle as the lower factory post? Didn't you use dowels to hold it all together?
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Quick suggestion. Cut that pillar loose and use your windshield as a template. Make spacer blocks to properly align it all the way around and tack your pillar. To me it looks like there will be a slight gap when you are finished that will need to be filled.
This has me nervous now, I can't help wondering if I should have the glass installed now and then remove it to paint. 
SuperCAN
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I think using the windshield as a template is an absolutely winning idea! Agree, a gap in the back of the A pillar is what I'm expecting to need to fill.
My attack plan is to cut the A pillar and try to shim it up in the back to bring the angle to match the drivers side. Tack things in place there and then re-fit the window. WIll let you all know how that goes.
SuperCAN
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This has me nervous now, I can't help wondering if I should have the glass installed now and then remove it to paint.
If you have the windshield and the gasket, might be a good check. You wouldn't have to fully install it, you can just do the gasket + with the windshield. I don't' think you would need to put in the retainer gasket. If I remember correct, I think yours is cut quite a bit higher than mine was, I'm thinking that may mean that the chance for an angle difference to matter is way less. I had to cut mine super low b/c there was some rust on my original A pillar and the 74 frame that I got was rust free.
SuperCAN
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Yes, the angle that the A pillar makes with the ground - or some horizontal reference line. I did use dowels to hold everything together, but somehow in my cutting I must have messed up the angle somehow allowing that side to rotate toward the rear of the truck.
IDK - I mean, I haven't seen anyone else post about this sort of error, so maybe it's a noob type mistake. LOL The good thing about metal working is that you can add and take away metal at the expense of your time...So, it should still be workable!
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Here's another way to do it if you want options. I did this years ago with a full top restore on a 46 ambulance. remove the windshield and tack in 1/4" rod into the windshield channel. Giving you all the upper and Side to side dimensions. You essentially want at least 6 pieces vertically and one or two horizontally. Tack it all together like a frame work. Grind the top tack welds and remove the top section of windshield frame. When you install the new section I gives you a hard reference to where it goes. You can then measure your old one to get a perfect fit by measuring the tack weld spots if that makes sense. Of course this isn't going to help you as you have already went past that point but someone else reading will appreciate it. Best part is that since it's in the channel it doesn't effect the paint and the gasket will cover it completely.
SuperCAN
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Thanks Vombrown.
Friday update: I finished up the welding this past week and am painting today. This time, I got everything tacked in place and confirmed the windshield did fit in the gasket before fully welding in. With any luck, I'll be sending some pics of the install + sliders which are done this weekend.
Friday update: I finished up the welding this past week and am painting today. This time, I got everything tacked in place and confirmed the windshield did fit in the gasket before fully welding in. With any luck, I'll be sending some pics of the install + sliders which are done this weekend.
SuperCAN
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Exciting news about the build -- Got the windshield installed last weekend and took it out for some weekend errands.
Here are a couple pics of the truck with the soft top, sliders and tube doors on.
As a note -- I am seeing quite a bit of body flex. To the point that the drivers side door will not close once I open it. Passenger side works fine.
Next steps: Roll bar, including support for the front of the tub - in between the back of the front seat tub and the front firewall, replacement of the body mounts and filling the B pillar holes. WIll keep you all posted!
Here are a couple pics of the truck with the soft top, sliders and tube doors on.
As a note -- I am seeing quite a bit of body flex. To the point that the drivers side door will not close once I open it. Passenger side works fine.
Next steps: Roll bar, including support for the front of the tub - in between the back of the front seat tub and the front firewall, replacement of the body mounts and filling the B pillar holes. WIll keep you all posted!
Holy crap that thing looks good! 
I'm interested to see your ideas on bracing the tub. I plan to use the 2 existing threaded holes in the B pillar (for seatbelts) to tie the cage there, still haven't come up with a good idea for tying to the A pillar / firewall. I thought about incorporating a vertical bar from the front tip of the sliders up to wherever I brace the firewall but wasn't sure if it would add much strength (being vertical).
That is a beautiful rig!
