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85 K5 - New AC or fix old?
- Thread starter RSAP
- Start date
wasted wages
1 ton status
It may be better for you in the long run to search out a different model compressor.
I am not a big fan of GM's refrigerant pumps.. You can look online or maybe check out some local auto air shops in your area for a conversion kit as swapping to a different model will require a bracket mounting kit as well.
you will have to install a condenser anyway, so step up to the largest condenser you can get in there. Again, aftermarket is probably your best bet especially if you step up the compressor's capacity. You would need to have new hoses made to adapt to the compressor as well, but a good auto AC shop can do these as well...
CCOT systems are pretty forgiving as far as modifications are concerned, and with R-134a you don't have the same capacity as an old R12 system. So it won't hurt to step up to an 8-10 cubic inch pump as long as you increase the condenser as well. Playing with orfice tube size may need to change as well to keep the suction side happy with a larger pump. The old Ford type pump is a great compressor as well as the Sanden and Denso rotary's... since you have V-belts an aftermarket bracket kit shouldn't be hard to find..
I am not a big fan of GM's refrigerant pumps.. You can look online or maybe check out some local auto air shops in your area for a conversion kit as swapping to a different model will require a bracket mounting kit as well.
you will have to install a condenser anyway, so step up to the largest condenser you can get in there. Again, aftermarket is probably your best bet especially if you step up the compressor's capacity. You would need to have new hoses made to adapt to the compressor as well, but a good auto AC shop can do these as well...
CCOT systems are pretty forgiving as far as modifications are concerned, and with R-134a you don't have the same capacity as an old R12 system. So it won't hurt to step up to an 8-10 cubic inch pump as long as you increase the condenser as well. Playing with orfice tube size may need to change as well to keep the suction side happy with a larger pump. The old Ford type pump is a great compressor as well as the Sanden and Denso rotary's... since you have V-belts an aftermarket bracket kit shouldn't be hard to find..
While I agree with you about the R4 compressor as far as durability and quiet operation, according to what I have read that others have posted on here, the R4 has about 11cfm capacity. The Sanden is less. And you have to make sure that you find a 7 piston Sanden with the 6 bolt rear housing.
This possibly isn't much of an issue if the majority of driving is not stop and go.
If you have some specifications or experience to shed some light on this, please tell us.
I have a Sanden 7 piston compressor and adapter brackets to put on my '90, but I haven't gotten it installed yet. But I do have a frame of reference with the parallel flow condenser with an R4, so I am interested to see what results I get with just a compressor swap.
@Blue85 has done a good amount of research and work with these from what I remember.
wasted wages
1 ton status
You are correct about the R4 in regards to capacity. I just prefer the Sanden or York over a Chevy pump. The 508 Sanden works well as a replacement for the R4.
Back when R12 was plentiful, I worked for
Thermo King ( reefer units) The shop in South Florida did tons of installs on vans, box trucks, sea going units, shrimp boats, buses, monorails etc... If it had an engine and it was mobile... we worked on it.
We did custom installs on box delivery vans that retained the factory air for the cab as well as mounting a second compressor for the TK unit for the box. Those were a nightmare to try and get all of the brackets and pulleys under the hood and keep good belt wrap and alignment. I worked with a Cuban fellow who was a wizard at fabrication for the brackets...
We used a lot of York pumps too as they were easier to mount. but yes, the GM comps do have close to 11 CI of pumping power, but for the long run my personal choice would be the Sanden.. I've seen more than my fair share of destroyed GM R4's and A6's...
Back when R12 was plentiful, I worked for
Thermo King ( reefer units) The shop in South Florida did tons of installs on vans, box trucks, sea going units, shrimp boats, buses, monorails etc... If it had an engine and it was mobile... we worked on it.
We did custom installs on box delivery vans that retained the factory air for the cab as well as mounting a second compressor for the TK unit for the box. Those were a nightmare to try and get all of the brackets and pulleys under the hood and keep good belt wrap and alignment. I worked with a Cuban fellow who was a wizard at fabrication for the brackets...
We used a lot of York pumps too as they were easier to mount. but yes, the GM comps do have close to 11 CI of pumping power, but for the long run my personal choice would be the Sanden.. I've seen more than my fair share of destroyed GM R4's and A6's...
Figured its time to update this old thread for anyone that comes across it. (will update part #'s)
New Compressor - 4 seasons @ pep boys pt#58235 $153.99
New Compressor hoses - Napa pt#282923 $72.49
New Accumulator - Napa part# 208542 $24.29
New Evap Core Amazon UAC EV 6275PFXC $43.00
(repaired hole in fiberglass cover, cleaned leaves/debris, confirmed door flap working)
New Orifice tube (went with blue .067) Napa $2.69
New metal tube Evap to Condensor - LMC #32-0918 A/C TUBE ASSY-CONDENSER $19.95 OUTLET
New Condenser - Napa pt#1K200083 $98.99
R12 to R134a Retro kit - Napa pt#408886 $26.99
Old R12 said it takes 3.25 Lbs.. using .80 conversion for r134a
Got tons of help from ck5 member @Wes Harden .. Thanks a bunch! Nice to meet others who love their squarebodies!
New Compressor - 4 seasons @ pep boys pt#58235 $153.99
New Compressor hoses - Napa pt#282923 $72.49
New Accumulator - Napa part# 208542 $24.29
New Evap Core Amazon UAC EV 6275PFXC $43.00
(repaired hole in fiberglass cover, cleaned leaves/debris, confirmed door flap working)
New Orifice tube (went with blue .067) Napa $2.69
New metal tube Evap to Condensor - LMC #32-0918 A/C TUBE ASSY-CONDENSER $19.95 OUTLET
New Condenser - Napa pt#1K200083 $98.99
R12 to R134a Retro kit - Napa pt#408886 $26.99
Old R12 said it takes 3.25 Lbs.. using .80 conversion for r134a
Got tons of help from ck5 member @Wes Harden .. Thanks a bunch! Nice to meet others who love their squarebodies!
Last edited:
MEMO43
1/2 ton status
I know I'm a little late to the party but I was wondering what all you did or had done to your control as far as the vacuum switch,
I'm doing my dream sheet and stuck between soft topper and fix what I have same boat as when you started.
Or go vintage air and new seals for the hard top.
did you have to replace any of the duct work, I know my door flap needs the plastic part replaced.
any and all info tips would be highly appreciated
I'm doing my dream sheet and stuck between soft topper and fix what I have same boat as when you started.
Or go vintage air and new seals for the hard top.
did you have to replace any of the duct work, I know my door flap needs the plastic part replaced.
any and all info tips would be highly appreciated
I have not had to replace any ductwork, but the vent fins can be fragile. New ones are available, but I haven't bought any, I have spares. I didn't like how vintage air had all 4 hose connections under the dash, behind the firewall, and I didn't like the performance of it during anything other than a hot, dry day. A rain storm in summer would fog the windows terribly just like winter.
I'm in the same boat, I pulled out the A/C pump and condenser when my '85 Suburban was going to be a bug out vehicle, years later it is turning into a daily driver and I need to the the A/C back in. I have the A6 compressor with the 6.2l diesel so I am on the hunt for a replacement.
