What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

86 GMC Diesel (NV3500 / NP241) - Parting out - Updated pricing, see post 8!

Russell

Russell

3/4 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jun 23, 2000
Posts
8,493
Reaction score
1,935
Location
Rocky View County, AB
Here is what is available:

6.2L diesel specific:

- 8 Nearly new AC-Delco 60G glow plugs = $20 ea ($25 ea new)
- Brand new Napa Premium timing chain set = $120 ($150 new)
- J-code HD / Military intake manifold = $80
- Brand new never used Napa Premium air filter = $20 ($20 new, never used)
- Spin on diesel filter heads + Brand New Napa Gold filters = $100
- Brand new clutch kit including flywheel, disc, pressure plate and pilot bearing. = $800 ($1000 new)
- Brand new upper rad hose = $30
- Brand new lower rad hose = $40

Will sell all the diesel parts, not including the clutch and fuel filter stuff, together to refresh your 6.2L diesel engine for $350, firm

Driveline:

- NV3500 5 speed manual transmission from an 04 Chev K1500 with a meer 34 000km. Comes with brand new master & slave cylinders + the hydraulic line. Fresh Syncromesh fluid, 32 spline output shaft with the standard 6 bolt round t-case pattern. = $800

Suspension:

- Procomp 4" rear lift springs, nearly brand new = $400 (Paid $450)

- Front 4" lift springs, brand unknown, well used = $100

- Procomp Stainless Steel flexible brake lines for Chev trucks lifted between 4 - 8" = $200

- Shocks for 73-87 Chevy pickups lifted between 2 - 4", brand unknown, well used = $150.00

I will sell the complete lift kit for $700, firm. Includes used u-bolts for 3/4 ton running gear.

Other:

- 4 35"x10.5"x15" Super Swamper boggers, excellent tread = $900
- 4 15"x10" 8 lug white spoke steel wheels = $250


If anyone is interested in anything, feel free to call me at 7802970869, PM me, or send an email to me through the site.

Thanks,

Russ
 
Last edited:
Russell said:
Just put a "fresh" engine into the off-roading rig, and it seized up within about 20 minutes of running. I'm not willing to go buy another engine for the truck, so I am parting it out.

Here is what is available:

6.2L diesel specific:

- 8 Nearly new AC-Delco 60G glow plugs = $20 ea ($25 ea new)
- Brand new Napa Premium timing chain set = $120 ($150 new)
- J-code HD / Military intake manifold = $80
- Brand new never used Napa Premium air filter = $20 ($20 new, never used)
- Spin on diesel filter heads + Brand New Napa Gold filters = $100
- Brand new clutch kit including flywheel, disc, pressure plate and pilot bearing. = $800 ($1000 new)
- Brand new upper rad hose = $30
- Brand new lower rad hose = $40

Driveline:

Both differentials are from my 1980 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4. I am putting the 4.56 diffs I just rebuilt into my 80 for the better gear ratio. Both are painted black with Zero Rust.

- 10 bolt open 4.10:1 front differential. All new Napa Premium steering links + tie rod & Moog balljoints, 4" raised steering arm, Warn hubs. All outer seals replaced, fresh gear lube in the diff. Comes with brand new brake calipers. Needs an alignment done. = $500

- 14 bolt gov-lock 4.10:1 rear differential. Brand new wheel cylinders & brake lines, but needs new shoes. HD drum brakes. Fresh gear lube installed. = $500

- NV3500 5 speed manual transmission from an 04 Chev K1500 with a meer 34 000km. Comes with brand new master & slave cylinders + the hydraulic line. Fresh Syncromesh fluid, 32 spline output shaft with the standard 6 bolt round t-case pattern. = $800

- NP241 passenger side drop manual shift transfer case. Fresh fluid, and rear seal. Comes with your choice of a mechanical or electric speedometer drive. Painted black. = $500

- Stainless Steel flexible brake lines for Chev trucks lifted between 4 - 8" = $200

Other:

- 4 35"x10.5"x15" Super Swamper boggers, excellent tread = $900
- 4 15"x10" 8 lug white spoke steel wheels = $250


If anyone is interested in anything, feel free to call me at 17802970869, PM me, or send an email to me through the site.

Thanks,

Russ
Click to expand...


Is this what it costs in Canada to have this hoby?
Oh my god now I see why you guys get frustrated more than us when things go wrong, it really costs big time.

:doah:
 
I've got a little over 8k invested in this rig over the last year. I've only gone wheeling with it 3 times, and broken something major every single time...

When I first got the truck I bought it pretty cheap knowing it had bad differentials in it. The engine ran good, no major smoke, and the transmission seemed alright as well. I replaced both differentials with a second set of 1/2 ton diffs, lifted it while I had it apart, and put a set of boggers on it. Went wheeling to the mountains and split the 700r4 clean in half. Replaced the 700r4 with an NV3500 / NP241 combo.

Next trip out I destroyed the front end, patched it back together with parts from the old 1/2 ton diffs, purchased a set of 3/4 ton diffs to start overhauling. Next trip out the engine started smoking really badly on the driver's side bank (it'd started smoking on the first trip when I busted the transmission), found out that cylinder 3 had very low compression and wasn't burning all it's fuel. Swapped in the 3/4 ton diffs, and started looking for a new engine.

One day I went to start the engine and it started to surge very badly, from nearly dieing to hitting the rev-limiter over and over. Went and picked up this new engine to drop in. Bought a bunch of parts for it, and switched all of the other new parts I had put into the old 6.2L as well. Filled the rad, started it up, and the thing ran beautifully. Noticed a few coolant leaks and a diesel leak, went to put it in the shop and while I was moving the other truck out, she spun a bearing or something and seized up.

So yeah, in 9 months of ownership I've put 3 front differentials and 2 rear differentials in it, a transmission, transfer case, and an engine. I'm pretty much fed up with it breaking all the time, especially considering how little I wheel, and how gentle I am when I am out wheeling. Rarely hit more than 2000 RPM in 2nd gear.

That said, now that the anger of a blown engine has passed, and after moving the K25 over from the other shop, I've realized that getting the K25 streetworthy will not only cost a crapload of money, but also be 10x the effort as replacing the engine in the 86 again. I've still got the old engine I pulled out, which I suspect has burnt valves, so I may be able to switch heads over (Mmm... boost-compliant headgaskets + head studs, supercharger anyone?
icon_wink.gif
) and have a solid engine to put in once again....

So, unless the engine I removed winds up having a damaged piston / rings or excessively low compression across the board, I will be rebuilding once again.

To those who have PMed for parts -- They are still coming if you want them. All the parts sold thus far came off the old engine, the new one is un-touched and they are not parts I need to have kicking around.
 
Last edited:
Good to hear you're keeping it...

That being said you really need to learn how not to get butt raped on parts. You're internet savvy, so be a little more patient and order stuff online...you will save a metric assload of money.

Clutch kit...I got a super duty puller truck clutch made by Hays from Jegs. Everything except the flywheel, for $275 cdn to my door...taxes, shipping, exchange in. glow plugs should never be more than $10 each new...and they fit in an envelope so shipping is super cheap.

Sure we're supposed to support our local economy, and I try to as often as possible...however when the local guys can financially rape me with a smile my response is fukc you buddy!

Rebuilt IP and 8 injectors for $350 CDN to my door shipping, exchange etc all figured in. Best local price? $1200 for the IP alone.

Jeg's and Summit are bothc excpetionally good to deal with, and they understand international shipping and the most cost effective carriers to use.

Just my two cents...I gotta work real hard for my cash and I'll be damned if I'm gonna spend more than I have to over some false sense of civic duty. If they treat me right, I will buy from them.

Rene
 
More than anything, I buy my parts locally because I want them now, not 3 weeks from now. I hate sitting around waiting on materials to show up, especially because most of these problems pop up days before I plan on a wheeling trip or something.

I've also been burned buying parts online, wind up with crap being sent up that can't / won't be waranteed, not to mention the added expense of the weak cnd dollar, brokerage charges and sometimes insane shipping charges.

I used to buy everything from the US, and found that in the long run I only saved about 5% over a local purchase.
 
Well, looking at the prices you posted I'd say you're spending about 50% more than you should...

To avoid brokerage altogether ask for USPS.

Better yet, got a price online and take it with you to the local place and tell them to sharpen their pencils. Stuff does cost more here, but there is no need to gouge. In this economy they can't afford to piss off their local customers if they hope to weather the current economy.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Well, looking at the prices you posted I'd say you're spending about 50% more than you should...

To avoid brokerage altogether ask for USPS.

Better yet, got a price online and take it with you to the local place and tell them to sharpen their pencils. Stuff does cost more here, but there is no need to gouge. In this economy they can't afford to piss off their local customers if they hope to weather the current economy.

Rene
Click to expand...

That is the way to do it.
I even do it here, local to our county or city is also important but it only works if they are reasonable.:wink1:
 
I understand that things are listed a bit expensive compared to what many Americans are used to. Since you guys are my best market, and I do want to sell things here is what I'm willing to do:

Find me a price on any given part as it'd cost south of the border somewhere. I'll match that price and I'll ship it to you at that price. I am not willing to offer free shipping on the big stuff including the trans, t-case, intake, clutch, rims, tires or springs etc
 
A little off topic, Russell, But tell me how the NV3500 fits the old body style. I saw one a few years back, took some pix, but didn't save the guys name. It was an '86 3/4 ton PU with a 5 speed, 4x4 of course, and a notch taken outta' the 4x4 shifter plastic for the 5 speed. I've always wanted one for my 6.2 Sub. Anybody want to install it here in NewYork for me??? Lol...

BTW, I have a '91 5 speed 4x4 for parts, drove it to the barn, 210k miles. What's the scoop on these trannys? Everyone says they toss syncros, etc. Mine whined a bit in 5th(?) or something. Heard MANY stories. Is mine the NV3500? It's a shortbox 1/2 ton 305, I think 305, maybe 350???...
 
Fits like it was built to be in the truck! The NV3500 is the same length as a 700r4, or any other transmission from 82+. It can accept any 27/32 spline 6 bolt round pattern t-case right off it's tailhousing (depending on it's spline count of course), I personally ran a 32 spline NP241 behind my transmission.

The hydro clutch can be a bit fun to integrate, but all I had to do was stop at the dealership and buy the bracket that was used in the factory 95 - 99 Chev pickups and cut out the part I needed, then bolted it to the inside of the firewall. The master cylinder then pops right on just like from the factory of the newer trucks. The internal slave cylinder utilizes the same clutch geometry as the older transmissions do, so you can use your factory clutch setup. I would highly recommend you run a diaphragm style pressure plate to keep the clutch pedal fairly light, 3 finger was no easier to actuate than a mechanical linkage.

Of course, there is the shifter clearance issues with 208 / 241 equipped rigs, I just used a very small shifter boot on the NV3500.

I had no problems with either of my two NV3500s strengthwise, one behind a 6.2L diesel that was used off-road, the other behind the 4.3L V6 in my old 96 which was driven daily, and not always nicely either. Keeping fluid in them (the correct fluid at that!) is obviously very important, and not kicking the crap out of them is also just as key.

Install was easy, no harder than putting in another 700r4. Infact, its a big lighter!
 
haha, nicely done on the grass fire!

We had a "controlled" burn get away from us at the farm -- That was a tense 30 min of the 5 of us trying to put out a major grass fire 30 min away from the nearest fire department! We got her beat though, hopped into the tractors / skid steer and plowed strips of grass away in the path of the fire and managed to contain it from spreading out into an open field, and onwards into the neighboring hutterite colony, haha

The NP241 in your burb is probably a 27 spline unit, if you wind up with a 27 spline NV3500, it'll bolt straight on. If you wind up with a 32 spline unit like mine, you'd need to switch the NP241's input shaft out with a 32 spline unit.

I'd be happy to help ya install, but the 30 hour drive each way isn't particularly appealing :P
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom