i have a 86 k10 i just replaced the 10 bolt rear but now it takes alot of thorttle just to get it going.I was wondering if theres something wrong with the transfer case?the brake light is also on.It feels as if the brakes are dragging,i have the ebrake disconnect thinking that was the problem but it wasnt.any suggestions?it only has 32" tires.
CK5
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86 GMC k10 problem
- Thread starter gmstrong
- Start date
Different limited slips do different things, but if both wheels were off the ground and it was out of gear, then you found the problem.
Drum brakes are what is known as self actuating.
When the cylinder pushes the shoe out to touch the drum, the whole assembly rotates and causes it to bind.
This makes the movement of the vehicle add to the braking force so that it takes less pedal pressure to stop.
But, it also means that if one shoe is touching, and the other is not, then it tends to cause it to stop only one way.
Which is what this sounds like.
Drum brakes are what is known as self actuating.
When the cylinder pushes the shoe out to touch the drum, the whole assembly rotates and causes it to bind.
This makes the movement of the vehicle add to the braking force so that it takes less pedal pressure to stop.
But, it also means that if one shoe is touching, and the other is not, then it tends to cause it to stop only one way.
Which is what this sounds like.
lovebomb_69
Registered Member
Did u replace the rearend with a matching gear ratio?
You will need to check all of your work.
The brake light is lit up on the dash because you either didn't "bleed" the brakes or did it incorrectly and the proportioning valve needs to be reset.
Jack it up again and take off each brake drum and see if you can turn both axles easily.
Brake adjustment as Fordum suggested sounds like it isn't correctly adjusted.
Have you verified that there is oil in the differential?
Was the 4x4 engaged as you were trying to drive it?
The brake light is lit up on the dash because you either didn't "bleed" the brakes or did it incorrectly and the proportioning valve needs to be reset.
Jack it up again and take off each brake drum and see if you can turn both axles easily.
Brake adjustment as Fordum suggested sounds like it isn't correctly adjusted.
Have you verified that there is oil in the differential?
Was the 4x4 engaged as you were trying to drive it?
I hate to throw more jack work at you, but you need to jack up the front end and make sure the front wheels turn free.
A bad front caliper could cause the brake light to be on and it not to drive right.
Or even a bad master cylinder holding pressure to the front brakes.
And, like Bradshaw and someone else suggested, make sure you are not in 4wd.
Other than that, we are looking at the transmission I guess.
When you say it takes full throttle to pull out, does the engine load down when you try to drive off, or does it rev real high?
If it revs high, then your transmission has a problem, maybe low on fluid.
If it loads down, and you have some dirt close by, try getting it up to about 20 or so, on dirt, and take your foot off the gas and kick the transmission into neutral.
If it is something binding, it should stop almost instantly, and might skid a tire. If just one tire skids, that is where we need to start looking.
If both rear tires skid, then it does not narrow it down as much.
A bad front caliper could cause the brake light to be on and it not to drive right.
Or even a bad master cylinder holding pressure to the front brakes.
And, like Bradshaw and someone else suggested, make sure you are not in 4wd.
Other than that, we are looking at the transmission I guess.
When you say it takes full throttle to pull out, does the engine load down when you try to drive off, or does it rev real high?
If it revs high, then your transmission has a problem, maybe low on fluid.
If it loads down, and you have some dirt close by, try getting it up to about 20 or so, on dirt, and take your foot off the gas and kick the transmission into neutral.
If it is something binding, it should stop almost instantly, and might skid a tire. If just one tire skids, that is where we need to start looking.
If both rear tires skid, then it does not narrow it down as much.
K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
Why was the original 10 bolt replaced? was it doing the same thing that you're asking about? or was it replaced for a different reason?
where did you get the "new" 10 bolt from? was it checked out and certified before it was installed? have you taken the drums off to check the conditions of the brakes? the reason I'm swapping my D70HD to disks is because the guy I bought it from leveled with me and told me the drums were seized. a parking brake lever sticking or breaking could be the cause of your concern, worn or rusted shoes could be binding with the drums, the drums could be rusted away to nothing.
I agree that you also need to check the front axle, and ensure those wheels are also free spinning.
process of elimination. if the rear axle is spinning freely, and the front wheels are spinning freely, its trans/tcase.
where did you get the "new" 10 bolt from? was it checked out and certified before it was installed? have you taken the drums off to check the conditions of the brakes? the reason I'm swapping my D70HD to disks is because the guy I bought it from leveled with me and told me the drums were seized. a parking brake lever sticking or breaking could be the cause of your concern, worn or rusted shoes could be binding with the drums, the drums could be rusted away to nothing.
I agree that you also need to check the front axle, and ensure those wheels are also free spinning.
process of elimination. if the rear axle is spinning freely, and the front wheels are spinning freely, its trans/tcase.
I jacked up the front end the tires move freely,The motor doesnt rev high not like the trans is slipping its more of a heavy load sound like trying to go up a 25* incline from a full stop.I didnt not bleed the brakes because the bleeders and so damn tight i guess from all the air.I did notice before i threw the rear in that the plungers on the master cylinder did not going in very far or any at all,also notice a bit of brake fluid in the master cylinder area.Would this hold it up?the tires spin freely front and rear.the rear also has fresh fluid,i filled it up until it came out of the check screw then putted alittle more in there to make sure it had enough.Thanks for all the help so far.i wonder if it would move better in 4wd hi just for ****s and gigs.
Ok, it sounds like you are in need of a lot more help than even you think you need.
You have to "bleed" the brakes when you open up the system or make hardware (axle) changes.
If you expect this to be a reliable daily driver then you need to do the job correctly. Example.... I think you have filled the differential too full. I want to make sure what hole you filled and added oil to just so we can be sure, can you describe it to me which hole and its location?
The bleeder screws need to be opened to do the job correctly so you may want to soak them down with some PB Blaster or WD-40 for a couple of days to help with loosening them up. Worse case scenario is if you cant get them loose or to pass fluid through you will need to change the wheel brake cylinders.
Where are you located? sj doesn't tell me much. There might be a brother in your area and he/she might be able to help you in person.
You have to "bleed" the brakes when you open up the system or make hardware (axle) changes.
If you expect this to be a reliable daily driver then you need to do the job correctly. Example.... I think you have filled the differential too full. I want to make sure what hole you filled and added oil to just so we can be sure, can you describe it to me which hole and its location?
The bleeder screws need to be opened to do the job correctly so you may want to soak them down with some PB Blaster or WD-40 for a couple of days to help with loosening them up. Worse case scenario is if you cant get them loose or to pass fluid through you will need to change the wheel brake cylinders.
Where are you located? sj doesn't tell me much. There might be a brother in your area and he/she might be able to help you in person.
Just a slight correction, but I think you mean wheel cylinders. There is only one master cylinder. It is on the firewall, and operated by the brake pedal. Not trying to be a dick, but using the correct terminology makes it easier for people to help you diagnose the problem.
Martin
Martin
