CK5
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'86 K30 - the Resurrection
- Thread starter FallGuy86
- Start date
My 1 ton Chevy crash course learning experience~
I ordered tune up stuffs from Advance Auto with a 25% off coopin' (in my best Ron White voice) and free shipping. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air fuel and oil filters and some conv oil for the first flush. Waiting till 9 so I can stop and get a magnetic oil drain plug.. I bought some Sea Foam fuel and crankcase treatments but not sure if I'll use those.
It shows I have an 1/8th or less tank of gas so I want to drop the tank to dump it and make sure it's clean.
It shows I have an 1/8th or less tank of gas so I want to drop the tank to dump it and make sure it's clean.
For anyone who may end up reading this.., the ole guy I bought it from stated it was running when parked 8yrs ago. I asked him to put a wrench on the crank to make sure it wasn't frozen..
He let me know the next day that if I wanted the truck it'd be another hundred bucks as he'd put a new battery in it. He said it not only turned over but it fired up after 10yrs of sitting. I laughed and asked if it was 8 or 10yrs, he says "yeah"..
Anyway, my question is,
After sitting that long and after I learned he'd ran it then, again to get it on the trailer as his winch broke and again to get it off the trailer as 3 of us guys couldn't push it off...what should I do to clean the carb, lines, tank, etc?
He let me know the next day that if I wanted the truck it'd be another hundred bucks as he'd put a new battery in it. He said it not only turned over but it fired up after 10yrs of sitting. I laughed and asked if it was 8 or 10yrs, he says "yeah"..
Anyway, my question is,
After sitting that long and after I learned he'd ran it then, again to get it on the trailer as his winch broke and again to get it off the trailer as 3 of us guys couldn't push it off...what should I do to clean the carb, lines, tank, etc?
Heck yeah man!! Your truck an auto or manual? You are lucky to still have all that emissions stuff connected... I am hunting for that stuff right now so that I can pass the test. Just saved off four of the photos in your Overview because they will help me install once I get my hands on all of it.
Regarding cleaning the carb and lines, are you gonna take all of it off to clean it? If you want to leave it all connected... I saw a quick tip on an episode of Roadkill yesterday where you block the intake with a rag or something and then rev the engine. They said that your engine's vacuum will pull all of the junk in your lines through because the regular air flow is blocked by the rag. Not sure if it really works, is recommended, etc... but figured I'd mention it.
Regarding cleaning the carb and lines, are you gonna take all of it off to clean it? If you want to leave it all connected... I saw a quick tip on an episode of Roadkill yesterday where you block the intake with a rag or something and then rev the engine. They said that your engine's vacuum will pull all of the junk in your lines through because the regular air flow is blocked by the rag. Not sure if it really works, is recommended, etc... but figured I'd mention it.
Stick!
You may want to check the tank, but the very least I would swap out the fuel filter and clean the filter into the carb (if it still exists)
Look over all the rubber lines starting at the tank, and check the brake lines and brake cylinders
I'd probably get tot the carb, and do a full tune up service once you know that other stuff isn't poopy
You may want to check the tank, but the very least I would swap out the fuel filter and clean the filter into the carb (if it still exists)
Look over all the rubber lines starting at the tank, and check the brake lines and brake cylinders
I'd probably get tot the carb, and do a full tune up service once you know that other stuff isn't poopy
I looked at the thread tags
So..what to do first.. How do I know which tank is selected or if they're tied together somehow?
I plan to pull the bed off to make it easier to work underneath and tocto replace misc easier but I'm alone today so that won't happen. I should be able to get to the tank straps from underneath, right?
I know I'm missing the smog/air pump, you can see the empty bracket on the pass. side in one pic. After reading your build I wonder which models had 2 air pumps.. Pfft, clean air, it's overrated~
Is the tank selector switch to the left of steering column or right?
The one to the left of ashtray is missing and the one on the left side isn't marked and looks aftermarket.
Is the selector switch on the left or right side of the column?
The one to the left of ashtray is missing and the one on the left side isn't marked and looks aftermarket.
That is a perfect truck to wheel.
Just sayin.
Just sayin.
See that gaping hole next to the ash tray? Thats your switch
And I'm gonna agree with @obijuank5 this is a wheeling truck...
And I'm gonna agree with @obijuank5 this is a wheeling truck...
But now we are curious. Is the toggle by the door hooked to anything?
I dunno.. I'm fixing to run grab a torque wrench and dielectric grease. I always forget something at the house.. Anyone know of a place for rent in the Denver area that'll let me wrench!? haha
I'm going to try and see where it's run from the toggle although I do know that with the battery hooked up my parking lights are on all the time. Not the top cab lights or running lights, just the two below the headlights and the two side marker lights on the front fenders.. I've checked the headlight switch and even with the headlight switch off and the key out, the parking lights are on constantly. I noticed it the night I got it so I just unhooked the battery till I had more time to diagnose it.
When I first looked at the truck it had dual batteries, one on each side of the engine bay but when the guy dropped it off with a new battery in it, both the old batteries were gone and only the new one remains.. I don't know if it came with duals like the CUCV's or if someone added it. It's got a small maybe 10g pos and neg wire just laying in the tray. I'll get better pics once I blow/brush all the dirt outta the engine bay..
I'm betting my lights will shut off with the mystery toggle..or maybe the original switch didn't work so they added this one for the fuel..
If I can't get the tank down, should I wait till I have help taking the bed off or would you guys put some new gas on top of the 1/8th of a tank it's got in it? I bought some SeaFoam fuel and crankcase treatments I could use as well but dunno if I should just wait.. The gas smells good coming out of the filler neck and it's ran a minute or two on a few occasions so... I'll be changing the oil and all filters including fuel before I do anything, just wondering out loud again.
If I can't get the tank down, should I wait till I have help taking the bed off or would you guys put some new gas on top of the 1/8th of a tank it's got in it? I bought some SeaFoam fuel and crankcase treatments I could use as well but dunno if I should just wait.. The gas smells good coming out of the filler neck and it's ran a minute or two on a few occasions so... I'll be changing the oil and all filters including fuel before I do anything, just wondering out loud again.
i recently bought a 72 K5 that supposedly sat for 17 years and then someone ran it for 15 miles on old gas before it just bogged down and would barely run. I pulled the hose off the carb and ran the engine for like 10 seconds, enough to fill up a poland spring bottle, looked like lipton iced tea come out of the tank. So i dropped the tank and there was soo much rust, just went with a poly tank and new fuel pump with a clear inline filter to make sure i didnt have rust in the lines also. Carb was still running terrible, new carb and now its running great, all new fuel
I spent the day cleaning the engine bay and running to get misc small parts. Magnetic oil drain plug, air cleaner stud kit, dielectric grease, etc. The engine is quite a bit cleaner after brushing it all down with air and then degreasing. Only found one mouse nest behind the carb but no dmg. Tomorrow we see if I can get the left tank down and finish the tune up
I’d bet with it having the glow plug light indicator in the gauge bezel that it was originally a 6.2 diesel truck and that’s why you have the two battery trays, I’d be sure to check that the positive wire hanging isn’t hot while it’s laying there.
Love the look, I’d keep it as is, lose the front bumper in favor of an A-bomb, or at the very least a factory bumper with the horns!
Love the look, I’d keep it as is, lose the front bumper in favor of an A-bomb, or at the very least a factory bumper with the horns!
