87 chevy 1 ton

[87chevyon42s]

i have an 87 i ton 454, th400, np203 np205 doubler and 42s i was wondering what drive shafts should i run i want to go 1350 all the way around or should i put 1410 and i want to keep the drive shafts u-joints all the same size and i mostly do rock crawling also what company do you think makes good drive shafts also one thing i was thinking about was that i want my drive shafts to be the weak link because u-joints a easy to change compared to t-case output thanks

 

[84CUCV]

i have heard good things about these guys.

http://highangledriveline.com/

 

[Steve GMC]

sorry i do not have an answer to your question, and not to hijack this thread, but can you post a pic of your truck, im building an 83 k30 and wanna see what it looks like on 42s

 

[reddog64]

do it right... call Jesse at high angle and go for 1410's
Your gonna spend about 420 for teh rear shaft.. and about the same for teh front.. but you'll be one ton...

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Will this see street time or not?

I don't believe in purposely building a weak link and a driveshaft would be a pretty poor choice for a weak link because they can cause a lot of carnage when a joint lets go.

I doubt you will break 1350 joints.

 

[boz42]

Jesse at HAD builds the good shat. I have 3 of his shafts & all are right as rain. I would go w/ the 1410's & never look back.

 

[5280k5]

Call Jess, he'll steer 'ya straight on what the best way to go is.
No complaints from me on my HAD shafts

 

[reddog64]

I just ordered my rear 1410 shaft... the 32 spline 1410 flange etc from HAD...

I was really not wanting to spend the coin I did... but I DO NOT want that rear shaft breaking on the trail.... front one... ok... (even it will go 1410 sooner than later)...
dont be a cheap bastard on the rear shaft... and dont waste yoru tiem with anythign less.. your running 42's... you have a doubler... a big block.. and your gonna go cheap on the part that transfer's that power and tourque???

 

[87chevyon42s]

so if i went with the 1410 would i have to worry about t-case output shafts and axles breaking before the drive shaft. I will drive it one the street and to trails. I would rather change a u-joint than a t-case output shaft. Sorry no pics dont have a camera.

 

[sandawgk5]

so if i went with the 1410 would i have to worry about t-case output shafts and axles breaking before the drive shaft. I will drive it one the street and to trails. I would rather change a u-joint than a t-case output shaft. Sorry no pics dont have a camera.

If you are that worried about breaking **** you are in the wrong hobby.

Breaking 1350s will get old and expensive really fast, especially when the failed joint takes out your CV.

If I had the coin and my wheelbase was set I would go 1410 and never look back.

Dik

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

If you are that worried about breaking **** you are in the wrong hobby.

Breaking 1350s will get old and expensive really fast, especially when the failed joint takes out your CV.

If I had the coin and my wheelbase was set I would go 1410 and never look back.

Dik

1350's and 1410's aren't all that different strength-wise.

I really feel that u-joint upgrades are overrated. Honestly, who breaks driveshaft u-joints on any kind of regular basis (I bet that most joints that are broken are due to poor maintanence).


For the record I run 1410 joints in the front and 1350 in the rear and I don't expect to ever break either. I have broken a dana 60 hub and stub shaft and the stock 1310 driveshaft survived just fine.