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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

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no clue on the shear Zim.....




sweet....... :wink1: I'm thinking this is going to become quite addictive... :haha:


tube009.jpg




tube008.jpg
 
that looks pretty dang close to the body, or is it my old eyes?








as far as strength goes, does this help?



ASTM A193

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Scope

Originally approved in 1936, this specification is heavily utilized in petroleum and chemical construction applications. The ASTM standard covers alloy steel and stainless steel bolting materials for high temperature service. This specification includes fasteners intended for use in pressure vessels, valves, flanges, and fittings. Although, this material is often available in national coarse (UNC) thread pitches, if being used in traditional applications, threads are specified 8 threads per inch (tpi) for diameters above one inch.
Below is a basic summary of a few of the common grades. ASTM A193 covers a number of other standard specifications not covered in this description including B5, B6, and B16.


GRADES

B7Alloy steel, AISI 4140/4142 quenched and temperedB8Class 1 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated.B8MClass 1 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated.B8Class 2 Stainless steel, AISI 304, carbide solution treated, strain hardenedB8MClass 2 Stainless steel, AISI 316, carbide solution treated, strain hardened

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

GradeSizeTensile ksi, minYield, ksi, minElong, %, minRA % minB7Up to 2-1/2 12510516502-5/8 - 41159516504-1/8 - 7 100751850B8 Class 1All75303050B8M Class 1All75303050B8 Class 2Up to 3/412510012357/8 - 11158015351-1/8 - 1-1/41056520351-3/8 - 1-1/2100502845B8M Class 2Up to 3/41109515457/8 - 11008020451-1/8 - 1-1/4 956525451-3/8 - 1-1/290503045

RECOMMENDED NUTS and WASHERS

GradeNutsWashersB7A194 Grade 2HF436B8 Class 1A194 Grade 8SS304B8M Class 1A194 Grade 8MSS316B8 Class 2A194 Grade 8, strain hardenedSS304B8M Class 2A194 Grade 8M, strain hardenedSS316










Carbon steel has approximately 60% shear strength of its given tensile strength, not what that means for Stainless grades?
 
well thats just not copying the way it looks at the site, just clicky it.
 
thanks for the tensile tech.. :D

it's about 1 1/4" from the sheetmetal.. thats not quite exactly where it's gonna be... need to make a minor adjustment at the b-52 mount point... the tube is actually gonna drop 1/2" and go forward a 1/2". still need to trim the sheetmetal to the bottom of the tube after too...
 
guess I'm just not seeing it right. keep em coming.
 
glove box/dash

Hey Paul, while randomly thinking sh!t today, I was wondering if you used a gelcoat after fiberglass layup, and finishing?
 
not on the truck... all the composite work in the truck gets urethane primer over it, then topcoat...

now work, thats another story... you CAN paint over gel, I do it all the time.. But on automotive apps, generally your best off with standard priming systems... gelcoats inherent thickness, lends itself to cracking on cars...

when I do aftermarket fiberglass hoods, etc, I'll generally sand 90% of the gel off...
 
todays activities....


stinger001.jpg




you can see the stinger on the ground, awaiting my notcher (this week)

stinger002.jpg




stinger003.jpg



stinger004.jpg



stinger007.jpg




thoughts for the day.....

4' bar kicks your arse, 5' aint bad, 6' easy...

had to unbolt and spin the dam bender around a couple times for the main tube.. that sucked, and it was shredding my concrete anchors after running em in and out a bunch...

got a plan for that tho... gonna bolt down an oversized plate with 8 studs sticking up, so i can clock the bender easily if need be..

hopefully I'll have the bumper done, in primer next weekend.. than I can hang my axle and get to the cage...
 
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believe it or not, I've been quite busy on a few other "side projects" on the truck not pictured..

gotta say, getting the bender, new welder, plasma, chop saw and now, tube, have given me BOATLOADS to do.... once the bumper is done, and bolted back up for good, they'll be tons of progress..

I thought about it last night, between the bumper, front suspension, cage, floor/tunnel, I figure I'll be a VERY busy boy the next 2, 3 months... I figure I can throw 5 to 700 hrs at it EASY.. I'm already prepping to get the drivetrain back in for mockup purposes..

the only thing uncertain at this point for me, is whether I'm going to, or even CAN (without crazy chit) clock my 205 behind the 700r4...
 
I know that feeling. I have just about everything lined up in OEM steel to redo the entire body on my Blazer. Then, since I will have it torn down for paint and the interior stripped, might as well rewire the whole thing. Then there is the audio/video setup, then I really want a 383/700r4/205 setup. I have axles at the house to go in, as well as a 4" lift. Currrently doing a skim coat of bondo over the top to repair the flaking gelcoat.

Right now I easily have 700 hours worth of work to do, and I am still working on more parts.
 
I'm hopeful that this huge amount of labor I need to throw out now allows me to get together the funding I need to get it back out on the road by the fall...mainly gears, tranny, shocks, headers and shafts.. mainly... :wink1:

need to start getting some productive weeknights in, instead of post-work boozing, not just pound tons of hrs on the weekend... :doah::haha:
 
Dude... as always, I love this thread. I love your dedication, creativity and fab skills.

But PLEASE change the title of the thread. Every time it pops up in my User CP I see "Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? toys & tube..."

But since a lower case "t" and an upper case "L" have a similar shape (minus the cross) my mind sees "toys and LUBE".

:D :doah: :haha: :rotfl:

Oh yeah, lookin' good... :thumb:

<snickers>

:haha:
 
nice..... :haha:






some bulletproof bling for Ryoken today...




flanges.jpg




hopefully brown santa will have my notcher tomorrow..... :saweet:
 
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