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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

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just plodding along.... everything is just so time consuming..... tho the new compressor helped a TON this weekend... it gets done the way it wants to get done... the well mount/support is just stupid overkill, but that's "what it called for".... :eek1::haha: but it's pretty sick, and ummmmm, stout... :wink1: I really like how all the engineering worked out.. cab supports, floor, cage flanges, sliders, etc.....

I banged out a fair amount of work this weekend, think the fender, rocker and well mount/support took me about 15 hrs... good weekend next weekend and I might have the whole cab in primer.... once the cage/cab are painted, the build will REALLY change... time to start bolting up a room full of parts! :woot:
 
yup, I have a room to rent, and potentially a dungeon bay spot...... just hate to lose the parts showroom... :haha:
 
oh, here's the indecisive build flip flop of the month.,...


so, I'm totally torn on whether to run an A.I.R system or not.... here's the deal.... NJ just got rid of visual inspection other than a sniffer test... truck wont have an emissions sticker on the rad support.. and it's a questionable year on trucks anyway.... some didn't have it... pretty certain if i'm running single exhaust with a cat and my #'s are good I wont have an issue...

not that i'm utterly opposed to running it... it's just a fair amount more parts, hassle and clutter... i can work the smog pump in on the york serp setup part of the belt system easy enough.. 30mm radius tooth cog is the other setup on the alt and power steering...

gotta decide, ordering headers next week....

opinions?
 
If you can get the #'s without it that is the way I would go. Infact that is how I run mine for year here.
 
I'll just post about the fiberglass hoods. I hated mine and not sure what brand it was but I ended up selling it because it was more of a hassle to work around. (I didn't have a prop rod or anything for it to stay up on its own)

I also found when I went to take it off the mounting pads inside the hood were real loose and almost fell into the hood. We got it bolted back up but it took us 2 hours to get the bolts to line up.

/end hood rant :D
 
it's a pretty big decision to go with glass... not sure if U.S Body wants lighter hinge springs or not.... from my understanding their hoods run heavy, almost as heavy as a stock steelie... that's fine, to me it indicates solid....

I'm not really concerned if it's not perfect, if it needs some tweaking here and there, no big... I've been doing glass work a LONG time... the airbox will be seriously fun to do.. i love that stuff.... a steelie would be much more of a pain for the airpan project..
 
Did they just stop visual testing particular ages of vehicles, or all vehicles? my concern on the AIR is that what if they do decide to look for it in the (near?) future. Maybe keep that in mind to add it if needed, instead of having to replace a set or headers or tap into the tubes for the AIR manifold, and mod brackets and whatever.
If your confident they're done with the visuals for a good length of time(Gov't...who knows) then be done with the AIR system, and run it nekkid as can be.
 
the thing is, I don't even think they would fail it with a visual.... i think they'll be happy with the cat, if they even peek... i suppose i could begrudgingly add the system back in later if it became an issue..

hmmm, header choices....

1 - L&L's $550
2 - Hooker stainless steels... $600
 
dump the AIR. If you dont pass, run 2 cats most modern trucks run 2 or even more cats.
 
ryoken said:
2 - Hooker stainless steels... $600
Click to expand...


scratch that.. i justed realized they're only available for 2WD..... :(


looks like I'm going with the non A.I.R L&L's....



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ooooh, wait how about some super comps


hok-2827hkr_w.jpg





done in extreme sterling from jetthott....




hok-2827-1hkr_w.jpg



that'll be about $600 too.... :screwy::woot:
 
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come on Paul, you've seen those L&L flanges....and 14 ga. tubes. lifetime rust-through....still contemplating?
 
I know, I know.... :haha:

wonder if they'll do weld-on collectors for me?

thats one of the reason's I considered jetthot, get hooker steelies and chop the collector off and weld up a slip-fit with an O2, then ship em off to jetthot...

but if i could get L & L to to do a slip-fit with an O2 fitting, in their coating, fock yeah..... :waytogo:
 
yea, that'd be the third one in the choices... sb I assume, how's the exit points?

and what finish, and how is it holding up?
 
What type of joint sealant or caulk are you useing andy is that better than say using a lead filler or solid weld. Just wondering since im about to tackle the body work on the cab of my k20.
 
it's Fusor seam sealer, the 800Z line... thats what it was designed to do.....

I've done a fair amount of lead work back in the day and there's no way, or reason, I'd lead those joints up... I'm a masochist, but not that much...
 
I have the plain ceramic coating, not the chrome. The finish is not as bright as it was before I took it through mud and snow, but it is very tough. I've scraped it on the frame and have never gone through the coating.

They don't hang down low like alot of other headers I've seen. They are tucked up nice and close. The driver's is slightly shorter to help with Y-pipe fitment for single exhaust.

You can see, they have a nice thick flange. They also have a weld bead around each port to help with sealing.
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Oh, and they go in very easy (once you figure out that you should come in from below.)
 
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