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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

if they stayed looking like the first pic, i'd be ok with that.. what's that mud on em in the second pic?


while re-researching Thorley's last night i did notice something... I knew his new company, Doug's was a bit pricier, but i took a peak anyway... seemed those prices had gone up a bit, maybe $50 to 100... they where up in the $800, 900 range....

ok, let me go look at the Doug Thorley stuff... seemed like their price had gone up a bit too.... the most expensive header for my rig at summit from them was the silver ceramic ones... they where like $650ish..... ouch.......

but..... here's the thing..... I will GLADLY pay an extra $100, 150 for the best coating.. i want them to last..... but for $650, they better damn well hold up...

jetthot wants $350 to coat headers in their best coating.. the extreme sterling..... i could buy hooker comps for 200, mod them to my liking then ship em out too for the same $600..... so i'm still totally up in the air on the whole subject at this point......


but at least i stopped and bought primer and paint today!
 
oh, and here's tonights little build decision... I'm setting the truck up to eventually run 2 alternators..... :saweet::screwy::eek1::zombie15:

one as basically a dedicated welder, but will have backup capability to the systems one....

I'm gonna have a main 30mm Radius Tooth HTD belt

30mm.jpg



that hit's the crank, ps, systems alt and wp (driverside accessories).... with these kinda pulleys..

bg6108.jpg


the second belt will be a 6 groove serp hitting the crank, wp, york and welding alt (pass acc's).... that way, if i ever an issue with the york or welder, i can just pull that belt off and be functional...



oh, and since I'm in a header buying quandry, and I'm trying to get the front clip/rad support/headlight/grill stuff worked out now, I'm bumping the cowl hood over the headers......... :woot:

till I come up with an executive decision pertaining to the tubes of throaty mill growl...... :wink1:
 
I had a set of Headers JetHot coated, loved them no issues, they chipped on me think I did something don't really remember but sent them back they redid them for free. I would recommend them and buy from them again. If your are going the custom route, which everybody knows you will, :D I would build a set and them have them coat them.
 
cool, thanks.. glad to get some real world feedback on em... I've always heard they ruled at that stuff.. and have heard some questionable things about some of the header manufacturers coatings..

i'm really leaning toward doing this... mainly cuz i can do the custom collector and o2 stuff, make sure they fit, etc, then send em out.... i'd more than likely go for the Hooker comps for that gig....
 
now here's a thought...... thinking Seafarer may have an answer for me...

if i'm gonna do the collector/o2 gig, then send em out...... is there any benefit in tuning to have a secondary O2 for the other bank? with megasquirt...

if i was ever gonna do it, now'd be the time to put the bung in, heck, even if i just plugged it for awhile...
 
hmmm, i am seeing some stuff about dual o2 sensing with megasquirt... also thinking egt bung may be in the works too.. gotta go do some Megasquirt research...
 
I would bung them both:whistle:

:haha::haha::haha:

obviously I wont be delving into those fancy aspects of the megasquirt software initially... but I'm not afraid to learn it and utilize it..... I may provide for dual o2 and egt... a setup on each bank...

I see the Hooker comps are a 2.5" collector... that'll work sick... I'm hoping i can do the y-pipe 2.5 out of each bank, and form up to 3" right before the cat...

the plan at this point is to run the passenger side back, angle over the shaft run back to the back corner of the trans, then cut over between the back of the tranny pan and the t-case mount, then form up with the ds as it goes thru the x-member...

basically come thru where the block of wood is in this pic...

joint004.jpg





if i can pull it off, i'll have a single high flow cat, 3" in/out running above the x-member, between the front and back "legs"


done007.jpg




then a single 50 series right behind the x-member...

and that'll leave me a ton of room on the passenger side for an air tank... :woot:
 
oh, and basically the way my collector will work is, slip-fit... the 2 y-pipe entrances will be expanded (i actually own the freakin Snap-on one) so they slip over the welded on collector.... then just a quality clamp.. maybe a band clamp this time round...
 
and yes, I'm building the exhaust myself...

I'm thinking of trying out a Magnaflow this time... always had flows...
 
Paul,

I seem to recall that Doug Thorley sold his company and then started Dougs Headers afterwards.... If that's true, it might change some of your thinking.

The same thing happened to Art Carr transmissions. When he sold the company, the new owners kind of ran the company downhill and unfortunately a lot of people still thought Art Carr was running the show. It's unfortunate when your name is connected with something you no longer have control over. Ulitmately, he started California Performance Transmission and the people "in the know" who still wanted an Art Carr transmission followed him to the new shop.

Doug Thorley may still have the quality that they were known for, but then again they may not. If they end up on your short list of choices it's probably worth confirming if the ownership has changed.

Good info on the coatings....and I'm with you, pulley stuff is a pain to sort out. :D



:usaflag:
 
didn't know Carr was the same kinda gig as Thorley... i forget what his deal was, sold it, lost in a divorce, something.... but since then i've always listened to hear of a quality loss, but i've yet to hear of any.. and it's been a few years now...

right now i'm leaning towards the comps... but i'm still contemplating modifying some super comps.... obviously the tuned part is an aspect, and i think the collector outlets look to be a bit higher than the comps... the only downside to the supers, other than cost, is the 18g tube... but if i get em jethotted, i think that detriment will be diminished...

but i got a couple weeks to decide... I'm also thinking i may send em the y-pipe i'm making to get coated too.... if the price is decent...
 
If you are still planning on running TBI, you don't need two O2 sensors, unless you are running a completely separated (left and right side) intake manifold. I'm not even sure that you would benefit from two sensors in that case...

The dirt is because I haven't ever cleaned the headers. Any mud that gets splashed on them dries off and looks like that.

Here, I cleaned a part off to show you.
IMAG0327.jpg


The two sides are shaped differently as well. Here's the driver's side. (Ignore the mess in the garage, I've been lax in working on the truck and hence the garage since my daughter was born.)
IMAG0328.jpg


Another excellent benefit to coated headers is the drastic reduction in under-hood temps over uncoated.

Oh, and the scrapes you see are just marks on the top of the coating, None of it has ever chipped or scraped off all the way to the metal.
 
they do clean up decent, thanks, ya didn't have to do that... :bow:

as of now, I'm planning tbi.. well, at least bringing the truck back on the road with it....

but I'm gonna be hard pressed not to do a dry manifold setup when I do the stroker motor... I have too much access to MPI marine setups to not think hard about it...

really need to get back to my Megasquirt reading...
 
I'm with Seaferer on this one. I've run both Hooker Comps and I run the Doug Thorley Tri-Y's now. I love the fit of the Doug Thorleys and the nice thick flange at the cylinder head. No leaks.

Mine are the chrome ones though I didn't have the coin to pop for the coated ones when I bought mine... :bow:

-Phil
 
so, just a little auto body product update...... gonna be painting the cab interior, undercarriage and frame in a couple weeks so i picked up a gal of urethane primer...

got my new black paint today.... I had been shooting flattened black Imron for ages on all the satin black i was doing... well, between Imron prices going thru the roof and the difficulty in reproducing the exact satin look from batch to batch, i decide to try another product for the black stuff...


decided to try out the Hotrod Flatz urethane satin black...


black.jpg



about $140 for the kit..... Imron was running me over double that.... i'll still be using chromabase for the copper and Imron clear over that... but it'll be nice to have all the black be a consistent satin from gallon to gallon..

hopefully I'll be squirting it in a couple weeks....
 
Good to see everything coming to a wind up isnt it - Or, at its' closest thus far huh ?

When you prep for spraying, would you mind giving us a list or two of everything you'll be using - from gun to clean up ? I myself have been thinking about spraying my own. If the initial costs arent roof breaking, I may follow through.


Thanks



Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX
 

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