crash81
1/2 ton status
i might be wrong but i think those are test ports to troubleshoot the older trans.
thought i'd touch on this, and ask a couple questions.... so the early cases have a port for each gear?
I definitely wouldn't want it for the main reason of multiple pressure lines... more fail points, bulk, etc...
and i'm not really understanding the difference.. my understanding is that with the manual vb, it runs at full line pressure all the time, so I can't really see a benefit to it.. other than possibly knowing which fluid circuit might be having an issue?
I'm assuming that gauge will stay steady thru all gears, with maybe just a tiny bump up as it shifts gear? would you see a prob in an individual gear? like full pressure in neutral, first gear, then low pressure in second, and back to full in 3rd and OD, indicating an issue with 2nd gear?
Yeah, I was just joking about that, but the early cases have a test port for every gear. They were there for diagnosis purposes.
Martin
yup... all the black ano-tuffs and steelbraided.. #6 on the trans and p.s, #10 on the engine.."
Is the steelbraid rated for a high enough pressure to work on the p/s? And r the Ano-Tuff rated high enough as well?
missed this.... 1500 psi
iirc, most ps systems run in the 5 to 700 psi range, upwards to 1000.... with pressure relief valves set in 1300 to 1400 range..
I built a pretty bad ass TH700R4 in college. Had every upgrade, plus a reverse manual valve body and clutch brake. It was an early case, and we ran it on the dyno, but that was so long ago, I really don't remember.
Martin
how'd that run? what'd ya put it in?
missed this.... 1500 psi
iirc, most ps systems run in the 5 to 700 psi range, upwards to 1000.... with pressure relief valves set in 1300 to 1400 range..
hmmmm, I'll re-type this one for future readers, musta got caught up in the rolled over, flaming server crash!
this was a brainfart, disregard.... after re-looking at my plumbing diagram, all the AN stuff is on the return side, so it'll see 50, 60 psi.... the pressure side will be JIC and 2200 psi hose....
pressure sides are always what i said, it's based on the pump.. usually 5 to 700, but upwards of a grand... i'm guessing a run of the mill tired stock pump might be as low as a couple hundred...
I was looking around at other coolers the other night, but forgot about those, i'll have to take a peek... i'll be hardpressed not to go with the Earl's, like i said, i ran one and was highly impressed with quality and it's capability per inch.. the Fluidynes are nice looking too, but big bucks...
a ton of it has to do with needing/wanting specific dimensions/configuration...
just got a MONSTER electric bill from heating the dungeon, so i've got a couple weeks to shop/mull it over....
probably about 20 g's.... maybe a bit under that...whats an estimate of how much you have put into this thing since you started this thread?
Well I've got a newer stock pump, but might as well get a "built" line while I need to get one anyway, then I'll be good for future upgrades.
My electric went up about 35$/month and I pay flat rate every month. I got into the red in a hurry this year it seems. Fab stuff, and more heat I guess??? To me its worth every penny to walk into a relatively comfortable shop though.
probably about 20 g's.... maybe a bit under that...
it'll be 25ish when it comes back on the road... and it'll be 40ish, at least, in the end...

I'm a marine mechanic... and don't be mistaken, I am by NO means well off... I take home about 8, 900 a week... I've just lived like a pauper the last 2, 3 yrs... pay the bills, everything else goes in the rig.... heck, I DD a 1988 Chevy Nogo.
hopefully i can have a productive diligent weekend, lot's on the plate...

