Normally on this I would cut the letters in reverse on the backside so the face is smooth, but I think it's doable. PM me a list of everything you need.
CK5
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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
as long as they would be visable on the smooth side, that would be even better.. much easier to keep clean... ya know with a black background behind it...
I guess I could go even thinner with the material too, if it would help show thru.. like 1/8" thick.. tho that's getting a bit thin.. on your end I guess.. than if I need thickness I can add a blank one to the back to get the 1/4"...
ok, sweet... i'll work on this over the next week or so and shoot ya a pm with details.. thanks man..
I guess I could go even thinner with the material too, if it would help show thru.. like 1/8" thick.. tho that's getting a bit thin.. on your end I guess.. than if I need thickness I can add a blank one to the back to get the 1/4"...
ok, sweet... i'll work on this over the next week or so and shoot ya a pm with details.. thanks man..
If I went thinner, it would be 3/16". That's the thickness we use for 90% of the acrylic (plexiglas) stuff we do.
newbie79
1/2 ton status
What page is the battery tray on or better question did u build or buy it. If its built can u send me some good pics and measurements if it was bought where did u get it from. Thanks
ok, good to know... biggest issue is the width of the LED's I use... but a single sheet of 1/4" is perfect for em on the side.. so I have no problem adding a 1/8 backer behind it to makle up the dif...
3/16 is fine and how I'd wanna go, especially with you guys using it all the time.. we'll talk details in PM...
but do you think that would be visible with no LED's on? just the cut on the backside with a black background? or is it such a smooth cut from the machine, it's not as noticeable as the sandblasting is?
I just really want them visable in daylight too.. and I'm sure at night, the amber, and even the darker green, will show up AMAZING...
but I'm concerned during the day you wont see em, even with the lights on... I suppose the amber, with black background, would probably be seeable.. if my dash panel is any indicator..
I just wanted to avoid those lights being on during the day if possible.. but I will run em if I have to..
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built it.. it's WAY early in this thread.. within the first 5 pages depending on how many per page... actually, it's first viewing is post #14..
and, it's already painted...
ummm, it's in the closet in the garage..
i'll measure it tomorrow for ya.. it's stupid simple.. think it's 1/8" plate.. 3 bolts on top, 2 on the bottom.. set up for #27's.. low center wall..that set up requires a 4" triangle hole cut out of the well... cuz they're 27's, it hangs a bit farther.. 24's, it wouldn't have happened... it's no big deal tho.. I just cut it.... when assembled, I just run a bead of caulk around it...
really the kind of job I would have sold small children to have a decent metal shear for cutting the panels out... plasma, clean up on a grinder took WAY more time for the 6 panels..
The router cut will frost the clear so it will be visible.
ok, sick.. that's what I wanted to hear... 
that's what we'll go with.. reverse on the backside of the 3/16..... that's gonna look sick at night... 
thanks.. i'll get working on the layout details and bug ya in a week or so.. I'm trying to dig out all those notes I took designing the system for this rig.. it's the final location of switching that I'm not 100% on..
and no rush in getting the project out the door... I'll be too busy on Mutt to mess again with this for awhile..
that's what we'll go with.. reverse on the backside of the 3/16..... that's gonna look sick at night... thanks.. i'll get working on the layout details and bug ya in a week or so.. I'm trying to dig out all those notes I took designing the system for this rig.. it's the final location of switching that I'm not 100% on..
and no rush in getting the project out the door... I'll be too busy on Mutt to mess again with this for awhile..
newbie79
1/2 ton status
Thanks again for the help
i'll drag it out morrow.. in retro, I woulda gone just a bit thicker.... 3/16th's or so, next time.. it's fine, plenty strong, but...
hard to keep that 1/8 flat with all the cutting/welding heat I put to it... I had to beat the sh*t out of that a few times in it's construction to keep it mostly flat..
than again, my implements of destruction at the time may have been lacking too...
hard to keep that 1/8 flat with all the cutting/welding heat I put to it... I had to beat the sh*t out of that a few times in it's construction to keep it mostly flat..
than again, my implements of destruction at the time may have been lacking too...
eesh.. the things I do to myself..
if you only knew than, what ya know now, right?
I may be moving some stuff around...
the glove box is perfectly set up for the label tags...
the dash, and possible the overhead console need shifts/adjustments to the switches to properly fit the lighted tags.. yay 
it doesn't affect the layout decision process for the tags themselves, but now I've gotta, grind, glass, recut, prime/paint them to get it all to fit/work/look right on assembly...
it's not a huge f*ckup, but extra work none the less... the real annoying part is I just finished redoing the right side of the dash.. now I'm gonna fill it in...
if you only knew than, what ya know now, right?
I may be moving some stuff around...
the glove box is perfectly set up for the label tags...
the dash, and possible the overhead console need shifts/adjustments to the switches to properly fit the lighted tags..
yay it doesn't affect the layout decision process for the tags themselves, but now I've gotta, grind, glass, recut, prime/paint them to get it all to fit/work/look right on assembly...
it's not a huge f*ckup, but extra work none the less... the real annoying part is I just finished redoing the right side of the dash.. now I'm gonna fill it in...
newbie79
1/2 ton status
Do u have a rough idea of how much or big of a piece of flat stock I would need from the metal shop. And I think it was u that said something about McMaster Carr. The catalog is something like 4-5 inches thick. I love it
it's a fairly big sheet of metal.. probably need a 2' x 3' hunk.. you can do the math yourself.. it measures 15" wide x 14" high on the back panel..
13" front to back... you can also see here that I put the floor, up/in a 1/2" from the wall bottoms to facilitate welding and strength..
the front and middle wall are 4" high.. you can also see I just used some 1" angle iron with the ends closed in for a bat holddown.. works awesome..
McMaster Carr's catalog is affectionately referred to as the "bible" in the marine biz...
just put an order in yesterday for myself, not always the cheapest, but a stoopid selection.. and actually Joysey, so quick shipping for me...
13" front to back... you can also see here that I put the floor, up/in a 1/2" from the wall bottoms to facilitate welding and strength..
the front and middle wall are 4" high.. you can also see I just used some 1" angle iron with the ends closed in for a bat holddown.. works awesome..
McMaster Carr's catalog is affectionately referred to as the "bible" in the marine biz...
just put an order in yesterday for myself, not always the cheapest, but a stoopid selection.. and actually Joysey, so quick shipping for me...
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so.. it looks like the overhead may be ok, but the dash will need a bit of work again...
here you can see a layout I'm playing with on the overhead... that's a size 12 arial bold font... 1" x 8.5"
it's gonna work much better turning all the labeling to face the driver... I also like that "personal" aspect, like the gauges in the side of the cowl.. a non-equilateral approach...
your head is just a bit forward I would say from this pic angle...
no labeling for the breaker row along the back..
here you can see a layout I'm playing with on the overhead... that's a size 12 arial bold font... 1" x 8.5"
it's gonna work much better turning all the labeling to face the driver... I also like that "personal" aspect, like the gauges in the side of the cowl.. a non-equilateral approach...
your head is just a bit forward I would say from this pic angle...
no labeling for the breaker row along the back..
oh, and keep mind, switch color is mostly up in the air at this point... with the tool, the covers pop off in a 1/2 second and I have endless choices...
just gotta feel out what functions should be what colors.. it's only gonna have a couple reds and grays.. I want the "heat on" one red, etc... the majority will be black..
just gotta feel out what functions should be what colors.. it's only gonna have a couple reds and grays.. I want the "heat on" one red, etc... the majority will be black..
lookin good as always.. i havent touched my truck in a few years since i cant get it to pass inspection.. sniff sniff..
so those switches.. contura right..where u get them from ???
so those switches.. contura right..where u get them from ???
I don't even remember... I bought a bulk amount like 4, 5 yr's ago... pretty readily available..
I'm not as nearly worried about inspection anymore.... it was always gonna be questionable with this rig... running 38's on a 1/2 ton is illegal no matter what bumper/door height...
but I'm still keeping the same plan.. I'll try to find a way to drive it on the street.....
only now I've taken serious steps into making it a trailer queen if need be with the building of Mutt..
albeit a cummins and trailer away from it...
finished overhead..
newbie79
1/2 ton status
Where r u stationed and when did ya join
