What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

88 350 tbi starts but dies immediately

K

k5floyd

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 6, 2004
Posts
315
Reaction score
0
Location
Friendswood, Tx
my 88 k5 sat in my driveway for about 3 and a half years after rebuilding the transmission. it ran great before sitting.

i replaced all the vaccum lines, put a brand new battery in it, new fuel filter, drained all but a few gallons of gas and put 20 fresh gallons in it.

it started right up and idled great everything sounded good. couple days later started it up to let it warm up a bit before i changed the oil. well it ran fine for a couple minutes and then just randomly died. tried to start it back up and it started up for a couple seconds and then died. did the same thing everytime after that.

got my step bro to start it as i tried to keep it running with starting fluid but same thing kept happening. i could see the injectors spraying fuel and i can hear the fuel pump turn on when i turn the key forward. so im thinking its got to be an ignition issue. checked all the fuses, they were good.

then i pulled the distributor cap and everything was rusted and corroded so i replaced the cap and rotor and the icm and cleaned the rust off the reluctor(?) with a wire brush. tried to start it up and same thing. and now it just fires up for a split second and does not really start up.

i have tried two different spare coils, a spare msd ignition box, brand new map sensor, spare fuel pump relay, and i have unplugged just about every sensor one at a time, and still same thing, it fires for a split second and dies. the fuses are all still good.

anyone have any ideas or know what else i can do?? thanks
 
also i have tried starting it with my foot on the gas a lil bit to half throttle and still same this just fires but doesnt start
 
Maybe the EGR valve opened during the first initial start when it ran long enough to warm up,then never closed again?...that would make a large vacuum leak and keep it from wanting to stay running...

I saw one engine that had a bad oil pressure sending unit,actually the truck had two of them,one for the gauge and another that was wired in with the electric fuel pump and computer,I guess it kills the fuel pump when the engine stalls and the key is left on,when it detects no oil pressure??..once we tried another sending unit it started up and ran ok again..
 
Bad MAF? I know too much starting fluid can ruin em. Also, grab a can of 44K from napa and run it through the tank... That stuff works wonders. Check for corosion on distributor. Replace plugs and wires. Check the coil. Sometimes water can get down in there, freeze, and crack and cause the same problems. (dont ask me how I know!)
 
I have a very similar problem on a 87 K5. Starts up and dies within 5 seconds. Does this several times for a minute or so. Let it sit for 3 minutes and it starts right up and runs perfectly.

I'll state what I have replaced to fix different issues, while this has been happening to maybe help you figure it out.

Dropped/inspected fuel tank.
Changed out fuel sender due to broken float... no change
Replaced battery... no change
Replaced ICM... no change
Checked distributor, and wires... removed all corrosion from inside rotor cap, and no change
Replaced Ignition Coil... no change
Installed Salad Bowl... no change
Replaced Spark Plugs... no change

Things I plan to look into.
Install fuel pressure gauge (will use this to determine if fuel pump is questionable)
Install fuel pressure regulator

This problem only started after I dropped the tank. There is a possibility that the source is the fuel pump, or that 2 inch hose issue on the pump/sender.

I'll look at my EGR tomorrow... maybe I'll get lucky.
 
Did some work on the Blazer today... So here is an update to my previous post...

Changed spark plugs... still dying within 5 seconds of start up (I did find some really old champion plugs in there thanks to the PO, and the spark plug gap was no where near right, replaced them with AC Delco CR43TS)

Checked EGR... responding fine, but I think I have a vacuum issue as I the hoses look cracked in several spots. Checked all hoses, and decided to just replace all of them. Decided to go to the local auto parts store, and bought new vacuum hoses. So for $20 on hoses, I have the main vacuum system maybe working right. I'll know tomorrow if it helped.

Decided while I was poking all around the TBI to go ahead and take it apart. Very easy to take apart (I did have the haynes book handy). Went only as far as removing the Fuel Meter Cover, and taking the injectors out to spray them down with some TBI Cleaner. I realized that the fuel meter cover gasket was dry and cracked like hell so I am going to pick up a TBI Rebuild Kit tomorrow morning to replace all the gaskets.

I am also scheduled to have fed-ex dropped off an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Fuel Gauge Adapter tomorrow from CFM Tech. I hope to get in the truck tomorrow as well, which should help me determine if the fuel pump is faulty.
 
so i havnt had anytime to work on my truck again since posting this because of school and finals coming up.

diesel4me, i will check the egr valve when i get a chance. also i had the oil pressure switch go bad and replaced a year or so before the truck sat, it was popping one of the ecm fuses. however i know its getting fuel because if i get one of my buddies to crank it i can watch the injectors squirting fuel into the throttle body

one other thing a that has been mentioned to me is the IAC, so i guess i will check that also. tho i have tried starting it with half throttle or so and still same thing, so unless my understanding of how the IAC works or what it does exactly is incorrect, i would think that would rule out the IAC. anyone have any input on the IAC or how i can test/check it?

To me it seems like an ignition problem. I already have new plugs, cap and rotor, and icm. I have also tried a spare msd box, two different spare coils, and a new map sensor. The wires are msd and were used for only a year or two before sitting.

I am probably going to tear down, clean, and rebuild the throttle body when i check or replace the IAC as well as install an adjustable fuel pressure reg and gauge.

Thanks guys
 
k5floyd said:
my 88 k5 sat in my driveway for about 3 and a half years after rebuilding the transmission. it ran great before sitting.

i replaced all the vaccum lines, put a brand new battery in it, new fuel filter, drained all but a few gallons of gas and put 20 fresh gallons in it.

it started right up and idled great everything sounded good. couple days later started it up to let it warm up a bit before i changed the oil. well it ran fine for a couple minutes and then just randomly died. tried to start it back up and it started up for a couple seconds and then died. did the same thing everytime after that.

got my step bro to start it as i tried to keep it running with starting fluid but same thing kept happening. i could see the injectors spraying fuel and i can hear the fuel pump turn on when i turn the key forward. so im thinking its got to be an ignition issue. checked all the fuses, they were good.

then i pulled the distributor cap and everything was rusted and corroded so i replaced the cap and rotor and the icm and cleaned the rust off the reluctor(?) with a wire brush. tried to start it up and same thing. and now it just fires up for a split second and does not really start up.

i have tried two different spare coils, a spare msd ignition box, brand new map sensor, spare fuel pump relay, and i have unplugged just about every sensor one at a time, and still same thing, it fires for a split second and dies. the fuses are all still good.

anyone have any ideas or know what else i can do?? thanks
Click to expand...
Try swapping out your coil.

I bought a brand new MSD Coil 6 month's ago.
Over time it got worse It thru me for a loop since it's "Brand new".
After a new fuel pump, 2 distributors 3 cap & rotor it finally would not start.
I had the old stock coil still... For tickles & Grins I placed it in temp. and the truck started right up.
 
Well, after a lot of money thrown at items that did not fix my issue of firing up then dying within 5 seconds... I now have it fixed.

When I tore into my TBI, and discovered all the cracked, and dated gaskets I decided to pick up the TBI Rebuild Kit from my local parts shop. When I took apart the pressure regulator I immediately noticed my broken pressure regulator spring, and heavily corroded pressure diaphragm. I ordered two pressure regulator springs (1 for spare) from Mr Injector http://www.mrinjectorparts.com/tbi-parts.html and installed it today back into the TBI.

Fired right up, blew some white smoke for about 3 seconds then settled into a nice idle. I took it out for a drive for 20 minutes, and it is running better than it ever has since I bought it in March.
 
finally had some more time to work on the truck this morn and i still cant figure this out.

has brand new plugs but pulled them anyway and they were a lil bit cruddy but not to bad. cleaned them up and reinstalled.

pulled the ecm out and checked for any leaking resistors, or any other signs of a fried ecm and everything looked ok.

also checked to see if egr is stuck, but it moves fairly easy

again, i have tried two different spare coils, a spare msd box, replaced cap and rotor and icm and has new plugs. also have tried a new map sensor. have replaced all vaccum lines and fuel filter as well.

truck still turns over and fires for a sec and but is not actually starting. when i got my buddies to crank it i can see both injectors are squirting fuel. have also tried to keep it running with starting fluid. have also tried starting it with throttle about half open. same thing everytime.

anymore ideas??
 
k5floyd said:
my 88 k5 sat in my driveway for about 3 and a half years after rebuilding the transmission. it ran great before sitting.

i replaced all the vaccum lines, put a brand new battery in it, new fuel filter, drained all but a few gallons of gas and put 20 fresh gallons in it.

it started right up and idled great everything sounded good. couple days later started it up to let it warm up a bit before i changed the oil. well it ran fine for a couple minutes and then just randomly died. tried to start it back up and it started up for a couple seconds and then died. did the same thing everytime after that.

got my step bro to start it as i tried to keep it running with starting fluid but same thing kept happening. i could see the injectors spraying fuel and i can hear the fuel pump turn on when i turn the key forward. so im thinking its got to be an ignition issue. checked all the fuses, they were good.

then i pulled the distributor cap and everything was rusted and corroded so i replaced the cap and rotor and the icm and cleaned the rust off the reluctor(?) with a wire brush. tried to start it up and same thing. and now it just fires up for a split second and does not really start up.

i have tried two different spare coils, a spare msd ignition box, brand new map sensor, spare fuel pump relay, and i have unplugged just about every sensor one at a time, and still same thing, it fires for a split second and dies. the fuses are all still good.

anyone have any ideas or know what else i can do?? thanks
Click to expand...

I would replace the distributor. Set the motor up with #1 at TDC and pull your dist. out take it to a parts store AZ O'RY that can test it (Only the module can be tested) if it passes or not get a new one (it comes with a module & pick up coil) If your cap & rotor are ?able then get a new one. Give that a try.
 
Did you check the pickup coil in the dizzy? When mine went bad, the symptoms were pretty much the same:
Fire up, run, sputter & die.

The guy that helped me out with it said you could watch a timing light just go out when it started to sputter.

Replaced the pickup coil... and voila! Runs like a charm again. Well, the HEI module was on it's way out, and after replacing that with the Accel unit, it's still running like a top.

Good luck, just one more thing to check...
 
Mine did that. Fortunately I have a complete extra engine. I started swapping parts, always changed them back if it didn't fix it, till I found the problem. The new distributor I had put in it a few months earlier had the module fail, It had maybe 30 minutes running time on it.
 
Have you explored WINALDL at http://winaldl.joby.se/ ? I found the program useful in solving my issues. Two of the screens are shown below.

JiminyData1.jpg


JiminyData2.jpg
 
just thought id update.

turns out even tho it looked like i was getting plenty of fuel i only had about 4 psi so i replaced the fuel pump and installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

now that i no longer have a fuel issue my timing is also off. ive never set timing before tho. i know i need to unplug the single black/brown wire on the firewall, i know the timing should be set at 0 degress, and i know i have to set my timing light at 0 also. what i dont know is where on the tab on the timing cover the mark on the balancer is supposed to line up at?
 
Clean everything first. Then take some white paint and paint ONLY the timing mark on the dampner. Make the paint mark as thin as possible and ONLY in the groove. Then look at the tab on the timing gear cover. It's marked in degrees BTDC, TDC and ATDC. Find the zero degree mark and paint it white, again keeping it only on the zero degree mark. Then use the light.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom