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88-95 14bsf axle swap

I put one from a '91 K2500, six lug under my Jimmy last summer. I like how it looks.
When you install the yoke from the 10 bolt, open up the dust shield so that it clears the seal and housing. I just used pliers to go around it several times until it had about a 45* angle, not the right angle in the shield. I liked keeping it rather than removing it.
I also changed the wheel studs to 1/2 so that there was more room for the lugly nut to seat on the taper in the wheel.
I also changed the fronts to 1/2, but you have to drill the hubs. And I screwed up by thinking that I needed to get a new stud with a step for the rotor, just like factory. I could probably have just drilled the hub and gotten a straight shank stud.
 
Spent Saturday stripping the paint off the diff cover and paining it. Also cleaned up the 90's backing plates and brake parts. One thing I noticed is that the backing plates are identical, not mirror imaged. When placed side-by-side, they both have the parking-brake cable hole in the same place. That means one side goes in the front, like the original 10b, and the other side enters the rear, unlike the 10b (where both cables enter from the front). So on the passenger side, the cable enters from the rear and would mean that the parking brake lever ends up on the front shoe. It's just different than I'm used to. It befuddled me a bit.

Looks like my shim kit for gear setup will be here today, and my ORD u-bolts/plates & upper shock mount reinforcing brackets will be here Wednesday. Now just waiting for the backing plate spacers from CutThroat to arrive.

Maybe this weekend she'll finally get the transplant.
 
Spent Saturday stripping the paint off the diff cover and paining it. Also cleaned up the 90's backing plates and brake parts. One thing I noticed is that the backing plates are identical, not mirror imaged. When placed side-by-side, they both have the parking-brake cable hole in the same place. That means one side goes in the front, like the original 10b, and the other side enters the rear, unlike the 10b (where both cables enter from the front). So on the passenger side, the cable enters from the rear and would mean that the parking brake lever ends up on the front shoe. It's just different than I'm used to. It befuddled me a bit.

Yeah, some axles are like that. My 1997 G3500 van axle is the same way. Identical parts, not symmetrical parts. Are you in need of different ebrake cables now?
 
Gonna have to find out when I start the swap if the passenger cable is long enough to go around the back. Or MIGHT just drill out the other blank pad and move the e-brake lever to the rear shoe on that side. Will see how it goes and post it...
 
Gonna have to find out when I start the swap if the passenger cable is long enough to go around the back. Or MIGHT just drill out the other blank pad and move the e-brake lever to the rear shoe on that side. Will see how it goes and post it...

I think you'll hafta find a mirrored linkage arm for the inside if you drill out the other side. They're bent backwards of each other, they're not the same part.
 
Luckily, they appear to interchange with the 88 K5's OLD 10blt brake parts. I've got at least two 10bolts' worth of brake parts sitting around (from the two broken 10 bolts I have).
 
I put the 10 bolt brake shoes on mine, because as you already know, they are the same part #
 
All else being equal, I believe my old 10 bolt used 15/16" bore wheel cylinders, with the slanted line pad. The ones the guys in the older posts called for are 88-98 model cylinders with the flat line pad. Most of them I see listed for 1/2 ton trucks are 1" bore. I DID find a p/n for a '97 G1500 van, #30169, that's a 15/16" bore. Have any of you guys that have done the swap used the 1" instead of the 15/16" cylinders, and what, if any difference did you notice?... Hydraulics principles would dictate that more piston surface area would provide more force, but at a reduced actuation speed. Seems like that would slow down the rear brake actuation. In fact, Autozone, for the 1500 van, lists one that is 15/16", and Oreilly, for the same year van, lists a 1" bore mc.

Thoughts anyone? Part numbers?....What did you ultimately go with?
 
Well, Saturday it went in. I included a couple of pics. The side view shows what the tire-to-wheel-well position ended up as, since I used ORD's relocation shims to move the axle back 1/2" - that was to get my slip-yoke back to almost the same position it was in with the old 10-bolt. Later, when I get the time, I'll compile and post my complete parts used to do the axle build and swap....

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Notes on my k5 10 bolt --> 14bsf rear swap.

Housing came from an '87 3/4 ton burb. The spring pads line up perfectly, and the shocks mounts are in the right place. It had 8 lug axle shafts. Those were discarded.
Scoured the local Wrench-a-Part, and found 33.25" 6-lug axle shafts in a 90's Express Van. Also took the drums and backing plates (with all its small parts)
The axle shafts had 14mm lug studs. Those were pressed out and a set of 1/2x20 lug studs from Dorman, #610-480, were pressed in.
The new lug studs were just a tad too long for the acorn nuts I chose...Dorman #711-241, so I trimmed most of the stud nose off using a dremmel cutting wheel. The wheel locks included with the Dorman set were iffy for the length I ended up with on the studs. Not going to use them. I probably will get a set of locks that are longer later.
I also scored a good set of gears + G80 from the local Wrench-A-Part out of a 90's 2wd pickup.
Ordered backing plate spacers from CutThroat 4x4. They are 1/2" thick, and move the backing plates outward to line up properly with the drums. The bolts to install those are 1/2"x20x1.5", Grade 8. Those came from Tractor Supply.

Brakes were a slight upgrade. The old K5 shoes are 11"x2" with a 15/16" wheel cylinder. The new brakes are 11x2 3/4" with a 1" wheel cylinder.
Drums I used are stock for mid 90's, but equivalent to Oreilly Part # 2169DGS. They are 6 lug, and are from mid-90's K1500. They are for 11-5/32 X 2-3/4 shoes. The original K5 Drums and shoes are 11" dia also but they are only 2" wide, and couldn't be used because of the length of the axle shafts/backing plate offset/etc.
Brake shoes are Oreilly Part # 473 and are 11-5/32 X 2-3/4 Inch
Wheel Cylinders are Oreilly Part # WC37781. They are 1" bore, and the pad for the flare nut/line is flat, not angled like the old cylinders.

Old gears in the donor housing were pretty worn out, as were the bearings (the Previous-previous-owner probably had never changed or added gear oil). The fresh set of gears from the Wrench-a-part had good wear and great backlash in their donor housing. I took them along with the G80 they were bolted to. The Carrier had decent bearings, but I decided to go ahead and install new ones. I used the old pinion bearings as set-up- bearings (hogged them out with a dremmel until I could just get them on and off by hand with a pretty tight fit. I don't recommend using old bearings as set-up's. Get a second set of identical NEW pinion bearings and make set-ups out of one of those sets. I worked half a day getting the pinion depth & bl set, then put the new bearings on. Things tightened up so much that I had to adjust the shims again.

The old 10 bolt 1310 yoke DOES INDEED fit a 14bsf. I DID have to swap over the dust shield from the 1350 yoke to the 1310 yoke, as the 1310 dust shield was too small of an outer diameter to fit where it needed to go in relation to the housing.

Stock rally wheels fit the 1/2" studs.

Driver side parking brake cable entered the backing plate from the front. It worked fine. Passenger side backing plate only had hole on the rear pad, so my park brake cable had to be fed thru the rear instead of the front as on the old 10blt. Simply had to make sure I used a spare park brake lever that was stamped the right way.

Will post more part numbers and notes later....
 
should have kept the metric studs and done the H3 4 piston brake upgrade up front. Check out cyclics "pure chevy sex" thread.
 
should have kept the metric studs and done the H3 4 piston brake upgrade up front. Check out cyclics "pure chevy sex" thread.
The downside in my opinion is that the metric studs are so large of a diameter that there isn't much actually hitting the tapered part of the seat on the rally wheel lug holes.
Maybe I am over thinking it, but I like how mine is with the 1/2 studs.
 
6872xtc said it - the 14mm studs are too large to have any of the 60° nut tapers in the wheel hole. The 90's axle hubs are smaller in diameter than the old 10 bolt ones. Our stock wheels are "hub-centric" meaning the hub is normally used to locate-center the wheel. When the newer shafts are used, the wheels become "lug-centric" so it really important to have the tapers be able to bottom out in the holes. Otherwise it's possible to pinch them down and not have them be totally centered. BTW I met Cyclic a couple of years ago. I actually got my last 10 bolt from him. He was a lifesaver at the time, as he had just the axle I needed to get me back on the road, and even delivered it to my house for a REALLY cheap price. We talked at length about the 4-piston caliper upgrade, and I've got that on my long-range to-do list. :-)

BTW - I shook her down over the last couple of days close to home. This morning, I drove her 60 miles to work. Nothing fell off, and there were no evil crunching sounds. I think I'm golden now. DID bring my big wrenched with me this morning so I can re-check the U-bolt torque before I make the trip home tonight.
 
As promised, here's the rest of the build list part numbers....
  • Rear Axle Seals: 710105
  • Axle Brgs were good - reused them
  • Pinion Bearing inner: HM804846 Race HM804810
  • Pinion Bearing Outer: HM88649 Race HMHM88610
  • Diff Bearings x2: Set 42 (JLM50681 + JLM506849A)
  • R&P Shim Kit: Advance Auto - Motive Gear diff Mini Install Kit PN GM9.5SSK
  • Lug Nuts: Dorman 711-241 (Set of 20 with wheel nuts & locks - Didn't use locks - they were not deep enough, the studs bottomed out even after trimming.)
  • Wheel Studs: Dorman 610-480
  • Cover Bolts: Hillman 8mmx1.25, trim to match original lengths with dremmel
  • Backing plate spacer: CutThroat 4x4 - 1/2" thick
  • Shock Bolts/nuts: Tractor Supply - Gr8 Hex Cap Screws 9/16-12x3" (3283144) Flat Washers 9/16 (3283186), Lock Washers 9/16 (3283178)
  • Pinion Nut: Powertorq 741A961 (interestingly, the new pinion nut was one socket size larger than the original)
  • Crush Sleeve: PowerTorq 723B034 (order two of them at least - you'll probably need them :-)
  • U-bolts: ORD 177752-ORD
  • U-Bolt Plates: ORD U-8023
  • Axle Offset Plates: ORD U8004 (moved my axle back 1/2", to keep the slip yoke in the same place)
  • Backing Plate Bolts: 1/2-20x1.5" grade 8 from Tractor Supply. Need them to fit with new backing plate and spacers.
  • Drums I used are stock for mid 90's, but equivalent to Oreilly Part # 2169DGS.
  • Brake shoes are Oreilly Part # 473 and are 11-5/32 X 2-3/4 Inch
  • Wheel Cylinders are Oreilly Part # WC37781. They are 1" bore, and the pad for the flare nut/line is flat, not angled like the old cylinders.
 
Going from the 15/16" bore wheel cylinders to the 1" didn't seem to affect my pedal travel significantly, even though that's about 14% greater piston surface area.
 
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