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88' Blazer K-5 Question:

M

MuddQueenK5

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Glenside, PA
My u-joint and output shaft/yoke from t-case broke this morning and my driveshaft is now laying on the ground. I had a couple questions:
Where would I purchase the output shaft/yoke from t-case? Is there an upgraded one to take the place of OEM?

Are the upgraded u-joints worth the extra money also? The ones that are packed with syntethic grease?

Can I replace the output shaft/yoke from t-case without dropping the trans?

What type of trans do I have? The NP205 or 208? My car is an automatic and I believe the 2500 3/4 ton.

Thanks! Sorry for the n00b questions...
 
Questions for your questions.
Do you have a slip yoke or fixed on the tcase? The part that the ujoint is in. Does it slip off of the tcase or is it bolted to it?
Beefy ujoints are worth the money if you keep breaking the cheap ones and they damage the driveshaft.
I dont think the syn grease helps any.
Yes you can remove the tcase with the trans installed.
 
Leper said:
Questions for your questions.
Do you have a slip yoke or fixed on the tcase? The part that the ujoint is in. Does it slip off of the tcase or is it bolted to it?
Beefy ujoints are worth the money if you keep breaking the cheap ones and they damage the driveshaft.
I dont think the syn grease helps any.
Yes you can remove the tcase with the trans installed.
Click to expand...
I believe it's a slip yoke. Here are pictures of the damage:
Yoke:
59ba7f68.jpg

3785390f.jpg


U-join/driveshaft:
DSC01197.jpg

d350185f.jpg
 
its def a slip yolk and its a 208 t case. try a junk yard any yolk out of a 208 will work. the yolk will just pull out so you dont need to remove trans or tcase. also the heavier u joints are def worth it
 
and u walked outside this morning and saw it like that? :haha:

you either have a 208/241 (88 was the transitiong year, could have either).
 
muddybuddy said:
and u walked outside this morning and saw it like that? :haha:

you either have a 208/241 (88 was the transitiong year, could have either).
Click to expand...
hehe no no, I was driving to work this morning and felt a really bad vibration/"death wobble". Then when I went to give it some gas I heard a CLUNK and couldn't move. How would I check to see if it's a 208 or 241?

I am told by a fellow 4X4 friend to remove the drive shaft and just keep it in 4WD to make it FWD. Is this possible? I really need this vehicle up and running in order to go to and from work, etc.

Please double check my shopping list:
2 - U-joints
1 - Slip rear yolk
 
MuddQueenK5 said:
I am told by a fellow 4X4 friend to remove the drive shaft and just keep it in 4WD to make it FWD. Is this possible? I really need this vehicle up and running in order to go to and from work, etc.
Click to expand...

That would work to get it home in an emergency, but I wouldn't suggest it for daily driving
 
Veefour said:
That would work to get it home in an emergency, but I wouldn't suggest it for daily driving
Click to expand...

Well, I wouldn't be driving on it like this for a month. I would say 3-4 days max. I have two jobs so I need this vehicle to get to and from. I was lucky to get enough time in between jobs just to take out the drive shaft. It is now out, and I looked at the metal tag that is stamped on the t-case. It says 208, so I am guessing I need a 27 spline, slip yolk. Anyone local (PA area) know where I could get one at a decent price? And are there upgraded ones?

I am also looking at the drive shaft (sitting in my living room) and was wondering how the u-joints come out? And if I purchased new u-joints would the two things that sit on the end (look like bearings?) come with it? Thank you guys so much for the reponses! :bow:
 
when you get new u-joints, they should look like this:

rep-stdjoint.jpg


This is just a picture I got from online. Your box and joint will probably look a little different. I hope you get ones that are at least made in the US. :D

Rick
 
i def do not reccomend driving in 4wd with no shaft with a 208. remember you have a slip yolk which will fall out and then youll start losing fluid from the tcase and probably kill that two best to just leave till its fixed
 
Thanks for all the responses and technical info. Really helped me out a lot. The U-joints were easy to find and I am going for the higher end/tougher ones (only $7 more). My only concern is that locally, I am not having much luck finding the output shaft/rear slip yoke. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't mind paying a bit more for an upgraded one. :D
 
echos said:
Try John at JBConversions. They are on the web, 337 625 2379
Click to expand...

I hope he has better pricing then the devil...I mean dealer. I just got a quote from them for $184 for just the rear slip yoke :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
I ruined a slip yoke on my 241 when I was 3 hours away from home. Welded it back together and drove home in 4wd to keep stress off of the weld. It broke again 25 feet from home. I bought a new on at the dealership for 158.00. A week later I bought a complete used shaft with slip yoke on Ebay for 60.00
 
shopping list

tranny fluid for the t-case , and a new rear t-case seal . with what i saw i would it would be good ins.
 
Okay, now I am completely flustered. Me and my friends got it up and running/test drove it and everything seemed to be okay. Just as the snow hits and I had to be a bit harder on it, the driveshaft again falls but it fell where it connects to the yoke in the rear axle. The straps (w/ 4 bolts that connect to the yoke) did not break and are not broken, it looks as if the the u-joints slipped right out from the bearing caps.

My thoughts are because we did not use the retainer clips (half moon/half circle) on that part. I was told that it was not needed since those straps (w/ 4 bolts that connect to the yoke) were there. Any ideas?
 
MuddQueenK5 said:
Okay, now I am completely flustered. Me and my friends got it up and running/test drove it and everything seemed to be okay. Just as the snow hits and I had to be a bit harder on it, the driveshaft again falls but it fell where it connects to the yoke in the rear axle. The straps (w/ 4 bolts that connect to the yoke) did not break and are not broken, it looks as if the the u-joints slipped right out from the bearing caps.

My thoughts are because we did not use the retainer clips (half moon/half circle) on that part. I was told that it was not needed since those straps (w/ 4 bolts that connect to the yoke) were there. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
They are required!!!!!!! I spit a shaft out of my Blazer on the way to a Gilmer run. Put the clips in next time.
 
Leper said:
They are required!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Yes they are. Jeeps and other vehicles have a little nub on the yoke that keeps the bearing caps on the ujoint. Now, as you can see, if those c-clips are not on the joint, there is nothing holding them in but the friction of the straps. That is not enough, cause under load, they can change shape. That would allow those to slip out. Definately need to use those clips.

Make sure nothing got damaged beyond repair when it fell out again. And next time, ask a question here before you go off the word on one person. People her will steer you in the right direction. Wacth out, it could get expensive though :wink1:.
 
Thanks guys fortunately I only gunned it only to get over a snow mound. It still broke down in my apartment complex. I got another u-joint and installed all 4 retainer clips. The only thing I am scared of now is to gun it again hehe.
 
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