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88 full-time hubs

bleever1

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OK. I blew out a hub. I just want to get it back on the road so I can plow some snow. Do I hafta go to a manual locking hub? My Auto Zone Parts Pro says so. Then I guess its a TCase conversion, right? I was happy with stock Full time hubs. Maybe its time to get upgraded. :confused:
 
An 88 has Auto locking hubs not full time hubs (also know as drive slugs). You will have to either find someone selling a used pair of auto locking hubs or buy manual locking hubs. The auto locking hubs usually gave up the ghost when you really need them so most people that is the first upgrade they make is to rid of the problemsome auto locking hubs.
 
I've got a set of Auto hubs in working condition. Just need to pull them off the axle. Interested?
 
Ok, so what is such a big deal about switching to manual locking hubs? I've done that several times with other trucks, no biggie...but they already hadm..

all the reading and searching I'm doing says I gotta modify my TCase, I guess I don't get it. What would it hurt if I ran 'em locked allatime, and just controlled my 4wd with the floor shifter? Or whats wrong with turning diff's and U-joints going down the road...

I just use the truck to plow, and hunt and fish a few times a year, it's notta daily driver...I guess if it was, I would spend a weekend jakking round with a TCase...I just need to get on the road B4 it snows again, (8 storms in Feb$$ruary) BL
 
Sorry guy, I'm new to the forum, I see you are in Virginia...its starting to look like I'm going to Manual lockers, just tryn 2 get educated. BL
 
That is only if you have an NP203 transfer case which GM quit using in 1979. If you have an '88, you should have an NP208. No transfer case modifications are required. Swapping the lockouts on is simple, and they are much better than auto hubs.

Martin
 
That's what it should be, and I can't see why anyone would swap an NP203 in. An NP203 will be a cast iron case, and does not have a 2HI selection on the shifter. An NP208 will be an aluminum case. Also, there should be a red tag on the back of the transfer case that says what it is.

Martin
 
Martin,

do you think I need to remove the inner snap ring and washer which sits behind the old auto hub? It seems I didn't have the clearance for my new locking hubs unless I did...BL
 
Martin,

do you think I need to remove the inner snap ring and washer which sits behind the old auto hub? It seems I didn't have the clearance for my new locking hubs unless I did...BL

Yes you need to remove them. You will install the stub axle snap ring on the end of the stub axle AFTER you have the hub body installed. Warn's instructions tell you about this if you read it carefully.
 
U R rite! it worked as you said..thanks for the help...finished it in a snowstorm in my driveway, with a headlamp...(isn't that how it usually seems to go?) thanks again...BL
 
You made the right choice dumping the auto hubs. Buddy of mine just bought a GM truck with them on the front. I told him the first thing he needed to do was dump the POS auto, go manual hubs. He didn't " said "they work just fine". Got a "you were right about the hubs" phone call from him the other day. He got in a situation where he needed 4x4. Hubs would not engauge. He fianally got the hubs to work and got out. Soon as he got back on the street. Hit the local 4x4 shop and bought a set of Warns.
 
ive actually got some drive slugs for a D44-10 bolt... dunno where they came from and I have no clue what to do with them lol
 

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