88 K5 Build Thread - 4BTA Cummins Swap - 05/18 Dory is delivered to Alaska!!

[kdoske]

Its in!!!! Test fit was a success. Instead of just painting this part of the frame I decided to wait and paint the whole frame--well most of it. So, I coated this part with Ospho until the whole frame is ready for paint. Since the shackle flip is essentially done. Tomorrow I will start will drilling the holes for the engine Mount, Grind the frame in the engine bay, test fit, remove engine mount, start grinding the rest of the frame for paint, then coat with Ospho.. If I have time, which I doubt, I might start removing the 3 inch body lifts that are in there now and replace them with the ORD no lift body mounts I purchased.

 

[sixb]

The plasma cutter is my weapon of choice, but since it is not something everyone has access to , I have had decent luck drilling them out. I use some good sharp bits , center punch the rivet as close to center as possible, drill it through with a 1/8 then keep stepping up in bit size, ending with a size over the rivet hole size, don't drill all the way through, just up to the bracket. Then you "should" be able to punch out the remainder of the rivet and one to the next one. I removed my front hangers this way and I think start to finish it may have been a little over an hour.

I heat the rivets until there glowing and about dripping then hit them with my air chisel You just have to be careful of where the heads land

Your engine is beautiful by the way
That TH475 should fetch some extra funds for your project.

 

[kdoske]

This is what worked best for me.

1. Use a thin wheel on a grinder and cut as many lines in the rivet as you can in one direction. Then do the same thing perpendicularly on the rivet.
2. Repeat step 1 to all rivets.
3. Take a chisel and banged the Sh!t out of them with a small sledge until the rivet heads pop off.
4. Put a grind wheel on the grinder and grind all rivets flush to the rear mounts.
5. Take the chisel and place it between the frame and the rear mount near one of the rivets and hit with sledge to separate it from the frame. Then take a large punch and hammer and hit rivet out from frame. (Follow threw with your hammer really does make a difference).
6. Repeat step 4 to all rivets.
7. Drink a beer, you've earned it.

 

[Stomis]

This is what worked best for me.

1. Use a thin wheel on a grinder and cut as many lines in the rivet as you can in one direction. Then do the same thing perpendicularly on the rivet.
2. Repeat step 1 to all rivets.
3. Take a chisel and banged the Sh!t out of them with a small sledge until the rivet heads pop off.
4. Put a grind wheel on the grinder and grind all rivets flush to the rear mounts.
5. Take the chisel and place it between the frame and the rear mount near one of the rivets and hit with sledge to separate it from the frame. Then take a large punch and hammer and hit rivet out from frame. (Follow throw with your hammer really does make a difference).
6. Repeat step 4 to all rivets.
7. Drink a beer, you've earned it.

Thats my method...

So what was your source for the motor? I'd really like to put one in my truck.

 

[kdoske]

Ok, so today I started the 4BT engine mount from Autoworld.

Drilled holes for new mounts

Both base mounts mounted

My frame seemed to be a little bowed out so i used some ratchet tie downs to pull it inwards and meet up with the engine mount holes.

I had to tighten it so much my Harbor Freight tie down handle collapsed under the pressure!!!!

Ok so after I got the frame pulled in I had to drill the two remaining holes. After they where drilled I noticed how hard it was going to be to hold the nuts on the underside of these holes while screwing the bolt on the top side.

I ended up pulling out the electrical tape and macgyvering this fancy tool....(on a side not im baffled how good this picture came out on my Iphone)

Me using my Mcgyver tool to hold the nut while I insert the bolt on the top. Its blurry but the nut is being held right against the bottom hole.

OK, so all the holes are drilled and its all mounted in.

The next step was breaking it all back down because the frame has to be repainted. It was drizzling/raining all day so I decided to skip grinding the frame I decided to mount my Advanced Adapters 4L80E to NP205 adapter.

So when I put the adapter next to the transmission it was clear that I would have to trim it to clear the pan. (This kit is made for a 2x4 4L80E and I have a 4x4 so I guess that's why it doesn't match up quite right).

I just marked and measured each side and put a grinding disk on my angle grinder and carefully trimmed it away. I think it came out pretty good.

Here it is all installed

I had some Ospho leftover in my cup from painting the rear frame for the shackle mounts yesterday so I decided to use it and paint one of my rear break drums to see what would happen. When I woke up the next morning it wasn't pretty!!! Although it looks like its been thrown in a fire the Ospho actually just converted the rust into some rock hard black crap.

 

[kdoske]

Today I changed out the RPM spring on my fuel pump for my 4BT. Looks like a simple thing but it probably took me over an our just to get that thing on and cover back on. The 4BT stock has a max RPM of something like 2000 RPM. Normally this is fine because the 4BT hits is max HP and TQ at 1500 but from what I have read some transmission have a hard time shifting in that low of RPM range. This new spring ups my engines RPMs to 3200 which should allow my 4L80E to shift smoothly.

Old:

New:

 

[kdoske]

Thats my method...

So what was your source for the motor? I'd really like to put one in my truck.

Sorry I missed your question. I got mine locally from an old Frito Truck that had 170K miles on it.

 

[CUCV2]

Subscribed. Nice choice for the crossmember . They are pretty good guys at AutoWorld and will work with you if you have something special going.

I like the idea of a 4L80E behind a 4BT. Have you decided on a standalone controller yet?

 

[Stomis]

Sorry I missed your question. I got mine locally from an old Frito Truck that had 70K miles on it.

Its alright. I'm having a hell of a time finding one, not that I'm really looking to start doing it right now. How did you get your hands on the truck? I keep reading that you can get on a list to purchase one of the vans from Frito-Lay really cheap but I dont know where...

Plus the "dove bid" wholesale website doesnt have listings like it used to.

 

[kdoske]

Its alright. I'm having a hell of a time finding one, not that I'm really looking to start doing it right now. How did you get your hands on the truck? I keep reading that you can get on a list to purchase one of the vans from Frito-Lay really cheap but I dont know where...

Plus the "dove bid" wholesale website doesnt have listings like it used to.

Unfortunately I just knew a guy that knew a guy so I'm not really of any help.

Subscribed. Nice choice for the crossmember . They are pretty good guys at AutoWorld and will work with you if you have something special going.

I like the idea of a 4L80E behind a 4BT. Have you decided on a standalone controller yet?

Yeah this cross member is super nice but its way overkill for a 4BT. Its cool though because it gives me the option to upgrade to 6BT later. I am going to use a Optishift Controller. Its supposed to be here by the end of the month. Its the cheapest by far and its very customizable.

http://www.optishift.com/

 

[kdoske]

So today I painted the frame and laid the cement slab that will allow me to put the engine in my car with my engine hoist.


Its not perfect but it doesn't mater. Its only here so I can get the engine in, then its getting broken all up, lol. My backs already hurting from digging up this mud under the truck, it was definitely not easy!

I have decided I am running out of time for my Alaska move so I didn't grind down the whole frame and paint it. I only painted the areas where parts of the frame where drilled. Maybe after I move I will repaint the whole thing.

 

[84CUCV]

just wondering what did you 4bt cost?

 

[kdoske]

just wondering what did you 4bt cost?

The truck was 4 grand. Got 600 for scrap metal and sold another 200+ in random odds and ends from the truck on eBay. This made the engine cost about 3100-3200. You can find them cheaper I'm sure.

 

[ZukiJohn]

LOVE the concrete! under the truck!! Gota do what ya gota do!! Keep up the good work!

 

[kdoske]

With the new frame paint all dry I decided to permanently mount the shackle flips today. I still have to purchase some new shocks and a new breather for my diff but after that I should be good to go.

After the shackle was done I decided to fab up the bracket that would hold the Throttle Position Sensor for my 4L80E. I started with a 2" wide piece of steel and bent it to the right position.

Then I welded on another piece and drilled two holes to line up with the engine block.

Next I drilled out a 1.5" hole for the TPS sensor that lined up directly with the throttle on the fuel pump.

Here is the TPS sensor mounted in the new hole. The 1.5" diameter drilled hole was perfect.

Next I had to work on what would connect the TPS to the throttle linkage on the pump. I decided to use a steel pipe. Seems like 1/2" fits perfect in the TSP sensor.

I cut off the threads and then cut grooves in it with a cutting wheel to match the imprint of the TPS.

Fits like a glove!

I cut the pipe to the correct length and then bored out the inside to match the diameter of the bolt I will be welding it too.

Here is the bracket bolted to the block with the pipe piece mocked up on the throttle bolt.

And here it is with the TPS mounted on top.

I still have to weld the pipe to the bolt and figure out where my thrid mounting point is going to be to stabilize the bracket. Chances are I will be cutting of that second bend but I decided to leave it for now just in case.

 

[kdoske]

LOVE the concrete! under the truck!! Gota do what ya gota do!! Keep up the good work!

LOL, I know right! Thanks man.

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Nice fab for the TPS

 

[84CUCV]

let me ask you this. just trying to see what i have and what is a good price for it.. came from the same truck. 83k runs perfect. also have a new injection pump with it.. i was thinking maybe 1700 thanks

 

[kdoske]

let me ask you this. just trying to see what i have and what is a good price for it.. came from the same truck. 83k runs perfect. also have a new injection pump with it.. i was thinking maybe 1700 thanks

1700 is cheap for a 80k mile 4BT. Especial with a new fuel pump. Everything on a Cummins engine is expensive and the Fuel Pump is not an exception--rebuilt VE pump cost about $750-800. 4BTs are actually more expensive then a 6BT. Its a supply and demand thing. There just isn't a ton of them around that were made for vehicles. Do you know if it has a VE or P style pump? This would make all the difference in the world for engine cost. If the engine is complete and it has a VE pump I'd say you could get 2500+ easy. With a P pump you can get 3500+. If its a P pump just put it on ebay and go on every relevant forum you can and advertise because a P pumped 4BT is very rare and very desirable.

 

[84CUCV]

good into thanks how can i tell if i have ve or p pump