88 K5 Build Thread - 4BTA Cummins Swap - 05/18 Dory is delivered to Alaska!!

[kdoske]

good into thanks how can i tell if i have ve or p pump

Heres a VE Pump (located on the drivers side of the engine)

Here is a drawing of a P-pump. So rare I couldn't even find a picture, lol.

The P-pump is just like the ones seen on the Dodge 6BT minus 2 ports. The reason its so desirable is that it allows you to very easily increase the power output of the engine.

 

[84CUCV]

i can hope mince is a ve

 

[kdoske]

Finished the TPS bracket today. I decided to not even do a third mounting point. Once it all together its very stiff and I don't think its needed. So for now I am just going to leave it all as is and paint it up this weekend.

I also put the belt tensioner, alternator, and all the coolant and oil lines on the engine today. The only thing left to do on it is install the steering pump and torque the exhaust manifold bolts!

 

[Greg Ducato]

Sexy looking little stump puller. I have a 4BTA that I am plotting a swap with myself, I am anxious to see how you like your conversion.

 

[kdoske]

Today I permanently mounted the engine crossmember for the engine. It all went pretty smooth but it took a good 2 hours because of the limited access to the nuts and bolts once the mount is in place.

Here are the bottom supports for the mount installed with there fresh coat of paint!

Heres the mount all in using the ratchet tie downs like I did in the test fit to straiten my frame.

Here it is all installed--finally! Washers were only used where the bolts heads or nuts touched the frame.

Since its was pretty cold today and it was dark I decided to call it a night. Tomorrow I pick up my my NP205 from Pensacola, FL. Gotta admit I am not looking forward to the 3 hour drive there and 3 hour drive back.

Sexy looking little stump puller. I have a 4BTA that I am plotting a swap with myself, I am anxious to see how you like your conversion.

Thanks, pretty sure I'm gonna LOVE it.

 

[y5mgisi]

How did i miss this so far?!? Love it, Subscribed.

 

[kdoske]

Today I finally pulled the np208, cross member, and shifter.

When I was doing this I realized I don't have rear drive shaft with a slip on it like the front has! This really sucks because it means I will have to get a custom drive shaft made. What really sucks about that is I have to move out of this house at the end of march to head to Alaska. I won't know the exact size I need until the engine, tranny and transfer case gets put in. Since I am waiting for parts that won't happen till next weekend. So, that means after next weekend is when I can measure how long it needs to be. I'm just not sure a shop can get one to me in less then 20 days. Anyone know if that possible? If not I'm not really sure what I'm going to do.

This picture below is the extra fuel pickup I installed for my Espar engine coolant heater I am going to install some day after I get to AK. This heater will allow me to preheat my coolant in about 30-45 mins so when I go to start her in the ice cold Alaska weather she will start right up. I'm an idiot, I should have put it in the corner diagonal to it. because It would have not been in the way of the fuel filler tube and the pickup tube would have not been in the way of the baffle in the gas tank. Where I have it now makes the baffle in the tank not be able to swing and inch or two back.

I was really frustrated when I went to drill this hole for the pickup. It required a 1" hole and I purchased a milwaukee hole bit to do this. In my years I have collected 4 hole saw bits, you know the black bits that the hole saw screws on to. Why is it that 1" one I just purchased didn't fit on any of them and all the other milwaukee bits I own fit just fine? It makes no sense and it really pissed me off. So, instead of running to the store and purchasing ANOTHER one I decided to just tack weld it to one of the 4 with 4 of 5 tacks all the way around. I figure 3 bits is enough anyway right! After that was done I drilled the hole and it worked great.

Heres the 205 I picked up yesterday. its a 32 spline long input shaft with a fixed output shaft(this is the main reason I'll need to purchase a new drive shaft). Anyway, its a GM 205 but it has a ford tail housing. It really doesn't matter but I thought it was odd. For those wondering the Ford tail housing doesn't have threads for the speedo cable, its just a cable with a plug at the end.

Below you can bear witness to the ultimate 4L80E to NP205 combo mated together. I wonder how many of these combos actually exists. Something tells me its not many.

How did i miss this so far?!? Love it, Subscribed.

Thanks for the comments, I'm glad everyone is enjoying the build. I think I would be enjoying it alot more if I didn't feel so rushed right now.

 

[manchildau65]

A driveline / driveshaft company should be able to make a balanced shaft in less than 5 business days. If you have any good yokes or parts you want to reuse, it could save you time and money taking the parts and pieces to them as well.

I had one made in three days... I took the yokes / spline I had with me, they supplied the pipe.

 

[Stomis]

A driveline / driveshaft company should be able to make a balanced shaft in less than 5 business days. If you have any good yokes or parts you want to reuse, it could save you time and money taking the parts and pieces to them as well.

I had one made in three days... I took the yokes / spline I had with me, they supplied the pipe.

Last car we had a custom driveshaft made for was done the next day. Tell the guy you're moving and have got to finish a project. The soon he can do it the better.

Its looking good man. Are you planning on putting this thing on the road and heading out!?

 

[sixb]

Thanks for the comments, I'm glad everyone is enjoying the build. I think I would be enjoying it alot more if I didn't feel so rushed right now.

Definitely enjoying it over here.
Yeah the last time I had a drive shaft done was next day service, I think you'll be fine if you can get a good shop to do the work. Maybe check a local off road board for references to a shop??

 

[Cruz89K5]

I love the build. Quick question. What is the length of the input on the 205? Thanks to your wonderful chart I'm going to put my 32 spline 205 behind my 4l80e with a northwest fab spacer and my th400 adapter, I just wanted to make sure I've got the long input.

 

[kdoske]

I love the build. Quick question. What is the length of the input on the 205? Thanks to your wonderful chart I'm going to put my 32 spline 205 behind my 4l80e with a northwest fab spacer and my th400 adapter, I just wanted to make sure I've got the long input.

It should be around 3.5 to 4 inches from the exterior of the case. The short shaft is like 2"s or less from the case. Not trying to sell here but I purchased a Northwest adapter and a Long spline for my build but I found a 205 figure 8 with a long shaft already in it so I went the other way. If you wanted/need them let me know.

Its looking good man. Are you planning on putting this thing on the road and heading out!?

No I am actually getting it shipped and going to finish it there. Unfortunately the car has to be self propelled for transport.

 

[kdoske]

My torque converter came in the mail today so I filled it with ATF and installed it.

I also got my Used Destroked Adapter and Flexplate in the mail today. Unfortunately it didn't come with any bolts so I think I am going to have to contact them and see if the can send me some because there is one whole on it that my stock bolt doesn't work in. Also, I don't have any of the starter bolts. I guess I could just figure that one out though with some bolts from a shop. I also realized I don't have any torque convert bolts or bell housing bolts today. So I guess I am going to have to call shops around and find those too. More delays!

 

[Cruz89K5]

It should be around 3.5 to 4 inches from the exterior of the case. The short shaft is like 2"s or less from the case. Not trying to sell here but I purchased a Northwest adapter and a Long spline for my build but I found a 205 figure 8 with a long shaft already in it so I went the other way. If you wanted/need them let me know.

Thanks for the info. Mine is just shy of 4" from the case. You have a PM.

 

[kdoske]

So today I went to mount my Bilstein shocks and I must of ordered the wrong ones because they have a stud shaft on one end of the shock end instead of just a hole to slip over the shock mount on the frame. See below to get a better Idea of what I mean...

Here's the shock up close

Here's the mount on the frame

On another note I got the Adapter Plate and Flex Plate mounted today.

I went to install my new transfer case output shaft and new seal but I was pretty stumped about how to remove the output shaft seal. Anyone have any ideas because this seal isn't moving. I'm sure its easy enough I just don't know the trick.

 

[JDNobodi]

The shock mount stud on the frame should unbolt, but it looks like the PO welded the stud onto the frame.
Where is that previous owner missile.

 

[CUCV2]

Will the bolt come out of the shock?

 

[kdoske]

The shock mount stud on the frame should unbolt, but it looks like the PO welded the stud onto the frame.
Where is that previous owner missile.

Dammit your right. I went out and looked after your post. I brushed away the crud and it is welded to the frame. You can tell its definitely not factory, wtf!

Will the bolt come out of the shock?

Not without destroying the shock I don't think. I guess I will see if I can cut the bolt out of the frame. Something tells me it would just make an unrepairable mess. If the bolt doesn't come out after that I guess I will just drill a new hole next to it and use that. Yet another delay--dammit!

 

[tRustyK5]

That seal likely had some lock-tite applied before it was pressed in. Try some gentle heat, like a plumbers torch from 6-10" away to get it warm, then try again.

Rene

 

[kdoske]

That seal likely had some lock-tite applied before it was pressed in. Try some gentle heat, like a plumbers torch from 6-10" away to get it warm, then try again.

Rene

Well I heated it up like you said and it popped right out--thanks New Seal Installed Below...

After that was done I went to mount the Transmission to the Adapter Plate but as soon as I rolled them together I could tell the Torque converter was not fully seated on the transmission. So I gave it a good shake/vibration clockwise spin and it seated.

After that was done I decided to mount it up. Everything went smooth till I got to the last bolt on the torque converter. Some how I ended up cross threading the screw! Anyway, to make a long story short about 2-3 hours later I fixed the problem and got her all mounted up. It looked like I may of had less then 1/16 of engagement for the torque converter. I think its because of the thickness of the Flexplate. I've read that having this little of engagement can be bad but I think I'm gonna take the risk. Below is a pic of all the parts mounted together. You gotta admit, that there looks pretty damn sexy! Sorry its so blurry.

On a side not I decided to name my truck Dory today. It came to me when the torque converter bolt cross threaded. Right when it happened for some reason I said to myself, 'You are definitely a delay fish'. I have no idea why that popped into my head but for those of you havn't already figured it out yet thats a line from the movie Finding Nemo and it was said to the fish Dory--the delay fish. So, there ya go. Her name is Dory.