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88 k5

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SonnyB

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ok guys, Well let me start out by saying hello, My name is Sonny and i have an 88 K5 blazer.

I boutgh it for 1800.00 from some moron and now i have to fix EVERYTHING!! lol... well I got it home after a VERY long, smoky & stinky(fuel and burning oil) 4.5 hour drive. Now im trying to ultimatly make it a very great truck, but right now i just need it to run good enough to pass California Smog. It was running WAYYY TOOOO rich, so bad that your clothes would smell after driving it, and the check engine light was on, Also it leaks oil pretty bad and blows on the pipes thats where the oil smell comes from. Well the first time the check engine light came on I checked the codes and it was an O2 code. So once i found an O2 that fit the headers that are on there i needed to locate the O2 wire, (because it was "somewhere up there" acording to the guy i bought it from). Well once that was done it still ran like crap i tried to check the timing and was unable to because the guy had put some dumb ass crome cover that doesnt have timing marks on it so... I did my best. I know I have the timing retarded (to burn less fuel) and now the check enging light is shows a code 45 for too rich and a code __ for knock sensor. Now if im corect, The knock sensor is on the passenger side of the motor and if it is then its not connected. And from what i have gathered, if the Sensor is not connected, then the ECU will retard the timing up something like 18 degres, now it thats the case why the hell is it still sooooo rich? Now after puting that O2 in place it did help ALOT! but now anytime we give it more throtle than normal there goes the light.

I found a wire near the knock sensor that i though maybe went to it but it was cut so i extended it and connected it but no luck.

What do you guys think my next move should be?

I took it to a guy that was supposed to be "the blazer king" and his buddy looked at it and said that it was time for a complete resto. I beg the differ. It has good power and it doesnt burn oil at all. the only smoke coming from the tail pipe is Dark DArk black and smels like fuel. and its only when you get on the gas. (it was all the time especially at idle, not anymore)

Also, I know the EGR is frozen. But it dont know if it would affect it that much.

Anyways, Ask any Questions and any feedback would be greatly appreciated! thanks!!!
 
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Start with your basic tune-up, (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, oil change). Then if this has long tube headers you're going to need a heated 02 sensor that is 3 wires instead of a non heated 1 wire. You also need to change the EGR valve for a good one. Once you've done all that then post back and maybe we can help you further.
 
I'm going to have to somewhat disagree on that. If installing a new O2 sensor made a difference, then heated isn't necessary.

The ONLY way to know if you need a heated O2 sensor or not, is to hook it up to a scanner and see if it ever goes closed loop. Since in this case a new O2 sensor helped, it is obviously going closed loop, and doesn't need heat.

Poster, you need to make sure you know what wires do what before just connecting them. You were probably right, and it was the knock sensor wire, but that's a guess. You need to be able to set timing back close to 0*, by ear isn't going to cut it.
 
Dorian, i will agree with you but also remember that many times people have a false sense of something because they want to believe that they've made a difference in the part that got changed when in fact there was no change.

I agree the only way to tell closed loop is to have a scanner or a laptop with winaldl hooked up so you can see.
 
Guys, Thaks for the input.

They are long tube headers, And i know the O2 sensor has made some what of a diffrence. How much? I dont know.

Now, I dont have access to a compression gauge and Ive already bought the new Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, oil and filters (fuel and oil). Well see if it helps, If not, im sure it prolly needed it anyway.

Well thanks again, and ill post back after the work is done.

OH! can someone please maybe take a pic of there timing marks so at least i have an idea of where the notch should be in refrence to maybe... the center of the crank, or "so many inches to the left" somthing like that.
Thanks!!
 
Buy yourself the bolt on timing tab for the diameter harmonic balancer you have and set it correctly.
 
oh sh*t, you them buy them acording to that? I thought i was gonna have to replace the timing cover. ok, does it just glue on or something? I'll look for one.

Thanks.
 
ok, So I did all the work that i said i was gonna do, change: (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, Oil And filter). and it seemed to run ok from my cousins to my house. (about 12 miles) but nothing diffrent. Now, right before my house i have to go up this slight grade thats about 3/4 of a mile, and about 1/4 of the way up "the light" came on. After i parked it I checked the codes and they were code 43 and a code 45. I didnt mess with the timing, Im gonna get that tab first, and the EGR is still stuck i belive, but...
... what now?

Thanks!!
 
Well, you need to fix the EGR valve first. The EGR helps to reduce cylinder temps which will help with reducing spark knock. The code 43 could be one of 3 thing, ESC (Electronic Spark Control) this is the module on the passenger side of the TBI unit, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) mounted on the passenger side of the throttle body having a 3 wire connector, or the knock sensor which is on the passenger side oil pan rail. I know you said the wire was missing and that you found a wire hanging there and hooked it up without knowing if it is the correct wire so check that out also. The code 45 is oxygen sensor circuit - rich exhaust.
 
It would really help you if you bought a scanner. It is cheaper in the long run to buy a scanner than throw parts at your engine hoping to fix it. Auto X Ray is a good brand. But any scanner that shows real time operating data and trouble cods will work. Or if you have a laptop you can DL win ALDL for free and buy or make a cable to hook it up.
That being said. heres one thing more to look at.
Check the coolant temp sensor. its located in the front of the intake manifold by the thermostat housing. It could be bad or unplugged.If it is telling the ECM the engine is cold you will run real rich.
As said before you have to have it timed right Timing by ear wont work for FI.
When you do get the timming plate issue done. When you time it be sure to disconnect the timing bypass wire when you set timing to 0. It is a tan wire with a connector sticking out of a big wire loom on the firewall by the power brake booster
 
ok, So i priced out the EGR and its only gonna be about $30-$50 so i'll prolly change that this weekend.
Yeah the knock sensor... ...I dont know. Im not sure if i should run a new line from the ecu (or where ever it comes from) to the sensor, or If I should just replace the sensor and leave it connected to the wire "i think" maybe it. The code 45, I dont understand because the timing i know is retarded but why is it still soo rich? About the timing, I bought a "timing tab" from pepboys today! sweet so i may put that on tonight and see what happens.

As far as a scanner goes, I do have a laptop so more than likly ill go that way, Ill look into it. Thanks

Last night, We took the blazer out of town (only because my trucks tranny is DOA) and the whole way there is kinda up hill and it took awile for the smoke to clear wile we were barly pushing 55! then we got to where we were going and everything seemed cool. When we let we were crusing down the freeway doing about 60 (downhill) and i could feel somthing kinda "not right" and i noticed that i couldnt really accelerate. the more gas i gave it the worse it was untill the pedal was almost to the floor and then it would drop a gear or two and take off, but it wasnt smoking as much as before. whel we got into town, we stoped to get some fuel and the thing was barly staying running! so we made it home and havent drove it since.

Im on my lunch break right now, but im thinking I may try to get it to my garage (about 12 miles away) tonight so i can put that timing tab on and time the dam thing. Start there i guess..

..Any more ideas?
Thanks again guys!
 
Stop driving it before you ruin something costly, like an engine. Get it fixed before you keep driving it.
 
Well I have no tools here at my home, (I live in an a Condo) Thats why i have to drive to where my tools are. No Shops will work on it because It has a 6" lift on it and the x-member was lowered with random nuts and washers as spacers, and now its a liability. I was told by one shop that the drive shaft was too short and thats why the x-member was lowered. Also i Only have untill the end of this month to smog it. Plus i cant really afford to have it fixed somewhere, thats why im trying to do it.
Thanks for looking out though, I see where your coming from, but im kinda stuck.
 
Sweet! I'll have to order the USB model Because my Laptop doesnt have a serial port, Only a printer and a Monitor port. But I'm gonna Order it this weekend. Im not exactly sure how to use the software but im sure after a few, I'll find something thats not working right. Thanks!!

Oh, and BTW Thunder, My Temp and Oil Pressure gauges dont work, I just thought i would let you know since you mentioned checking the Temp sensor. I just dont know if its the Gauge or the sending unit.
 
The coolant temp sensor is not the same sensor as for your temp gauge. Your temp gauge sensor is in the driver side head, the coolant temp sensor for the ECM is in the intake manifold.
 
Can someone please take a picture of there stock 88 engine? I dont think that the engine in mine is the right one. Thanks!
 
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