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89 blazer problems out of ideas.

travis565

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las vegas
alrighty, to start this off.
i started my day with a simple oil change and injector cleaning and now 3 days later and 500 bucks she barely runs. i started off spraying the seafoam injector cleaner on the tbi. and it started to run a lil funny then cut out. couldnt get it really running right after that. so i just assumed i got it in a nono area . so i rebuilt the tbi and changed plugs wires cap and rotor fuel filter map sensor idle air control valve coolant temp sensor (the right one) and the throttle position sensor eventually changed the computer which had a jet chip in it from the previous owner. i reinstalled that in the new one. when i rebuilt the tbi i learned the hard way how the injectors go in. so after fixing that and rebuilding it again i got rid of the flooding and leaky injectors. well the flooding not so much but they dont leak anymore. :whistle: so the reason i even went this direction was its been running a lil funny to where when it first started it had a lopey idle. until it warmed up and acted fine. and it seemed to run a lil rich . it still has the egr but no cats. the egr seemed clear but when its running and i pull the line from it i get no change.the motor also has shut off when its idling and the injectors go crazy with clicking and start spewing gas in to the throttle body after the motor has quit and they only stop when i shut the key off. thats why i said the flooding is semi fixed. :dunno:. so i videoed that and showed a mechanic shop and he said that to him that could be a computer problem. so i bought a new one to see. nope still doing the same thing. now i can get it to turn over and idle. when its cold it will be fine idling until it warms up then i get a dead miss and the idle get erratic to tries to cut off but it seems to compensate for it buy adding more fuel. if i drive it the miss becomes worse and has no power. im not sure if i could of washed the spark plugs from all the flooding or if the mis is coming from a faulty ignition control module. i havent changed that yet. nor have i changed the fuel pump. i figured it was flooding so i should have enough fuel pressure even though i havent put a guage on it yet. if i drive it i get a lil ways maybe a half mile or so and she will try to die on me but a lil throttle saves it. if it does die out when i go the crank it again it will just turn over like its not getting spark then it will flood and i disconnect the injectors and turn it over until it cranks and burns the fuel in the motor off. then i reconnect the injectors and try again. this goes on 2 or three times before i can get it started again which usually ends up having to be jumped off.

sorry guys this a run on cluster paragraph here. im beat down and frustrated as to where to go now. im over 500 down a day loss of work and 3 total days on this thing. if i still had a shot gun and slugs i prob wouldnt be typing this right now id be calling the junk yard. so the only things i can think left to change is the ignition control module the fuel pump and the o2 sensor. im just trying not to throw any more cash at it unless its a definite thing. this is one of my daily drivers. any help you guys may be able to throw my way would be much appreciated. ive been a googling turd the past three days thats why i replaced all the things i did because of other problems people have had and said it was a maybe.
 
On your list of replaced things I didn't see O2 sensor. Also, did you set up the IAC so it has range to operate? There are procedures to set it up, or you can instrument out and see what the IAC system is doing while it's running.
 
Put your plug wires on correctly (proper order, don't ASSUME where number 1 wire should be) then check back with us.
 
Thanks for the replies. I havent changed the o2 sensor yet. Its on my list to do today. Im going to pull the egr today and clean it.out. I took it off a few weeks ago and looked at it but i looked at the wrong port to.see if.it was clogged. So im going to do that first then.o2 sensor if no change from egr. I got the ignition tested today it tested fine. Hahaha yea the plug wires are on where they belong. even though i know the order i only replace one at a time. Im leaning towards the egr i was reading today the symptoms of a messed up egr and it fit the bill. So we will see here in a bit. Ill repost the happenings
 
Ok update. I replaced the o2 sensor and cleaned the egr. Seemsto be fixed she runs with no missing and doesnt shut off. However on the egr i could put my finger over the vacuum line out and depress the plunger and it would move freely. if i took my finger off the hole when i pressed the plunger i could feel air blow out but when i put my finger back i wouldnt feel vacuum. Not sure if its supposed to be that way or if the egr is broken. It idles ok and stays running drives fine but when in park it seems the idle bounces up and down maybe between 550 to 700 or so its not extreme but there is a noticable change in idle. Not sure if thats from the egr creating a vacuum leak or not. what do yall think with a lil more experience with egr's?
 
And if i eliminate all the smog stuff would i need to get a new chip to reprogram the computer? Im thinking of registering it this year where i dont need smog check. Since i have the option.
 
Yes, if the EGR is removed, the computer will get confused because it compensates when EGR is enabled. Not sure how much an EGR valve is, but you've replaced everything else...
 
The EGR valve also helps to cool the cylinders and help prevent detonation which will KILL an engine.
 
Yea mastiff youre right about that lol. Im just gonna buy a new one and leave everything on it until i do the head cam and intake swap. Then ill figure it out after that. I def appreciate the help from yalls suggestions. If the egr is leaking then its was the o2 sensor the whole time. Good thing that replacing all those parts was useful anyways most of them needed to be replaced just to stop from breaking in the future so nothing went to wast except maybe the computer but oh well new is better hahaha 500 bucks to find out it was a 15 dollar part the whole time. Even though it should have been the first thing i replaced since right after i sprayed the stuff it started acting up. So apparently the seafoam spray isnt o2 safe. Well peace of mind its all new so i should be good for a while:thumb:
 
Whelp i thought she was fixed. I took it for a longer drive than around the block. And got about 2 miles down the road and she started to hesitate and sputter. A lil backfire but not much. So i limped her back home. She made it and tried cutting off but i saved it by feathering the pedal. But she shut off when i went to back in. She cranked right back up and let me pull in. Then shut back off. I didnt smell rich gas or anything. So im curious if the culprit could be the fuel pump. She ran fine cold but as soon as she heated up she started to act up. Unless the egr valve being bad can do that too. Tomorrow morning new fuel pump and egr. Hope thats it.
 
Fuel pump is a major job, I personally wouldn't just throw a part at that. Having a problem after heating up could be consistent with EGR since it doesn't kick in until warm. If EGR isn't it, I'd get a pressure gauge and see what's going on. Or throw a fuel pressure regulator at it first. Or did you do that one already?
 
I rebuilt the tbi which has the regulator in it right? Ahhi see i thought the egr worked during warm up. If thats the case im prob getting a bad leak when it tries to open up. Im gonna replace it in a few min along with the ignition module even tho it tested fine it might jack up wgen it gets hot. I have a fuel pump trap door lol takes me about 15 min hahaha
 
Update. i swapped the pump out of the housing and put a new egr vale on it. The old one def was broken. Started up fine went for a test drive and all seemed ok but after about 3 miles i stomped it to put it through the paces and after it had the slight surging and missing. Although it never tried to shut off. It seems like the surging is.less but if i romp on it there is no surging or miss just happens low to mid throttle. Withbit doing that maybe it could be a slight intake leak? Even though the problem has gotten better and i can drive it at least but still not 100%. . At this point if its a leaky intake i planned on puting a new one on in a few weeks ill just limp it until then. Im out of money for it now after all these parts
 
I run Fords, so I don't have the problems you guys do. I have a different set........

BUT if there is one thing I have learned here, is never test an ignition module. If it tests bad, then its usually bad. If it tests good, you have no idea if its good or bad.

There are dozens of threads here where the module was eliminated by testing, and turned out to be bad after many other things were tried.
 
Yea def true. It seems a lil old. Its the last thing i have to replace that deals with all of this. . Ill prob change it tonight just for craps and giggles. They can make it run intemittent like that if they are going out right? Kinda sputtery like
 
Yep, it can have an effect on both the ignition and the functioning of the injectors.
 
OH, and be sure to clean the mounting surface good and then put a film of the heat sink compound between the module and the mounting surface.
 
Hahaha she just broke down at the gas station. Seems like she isnt getting spark. Im going to let her cool off then try to limp to the parts place and buy a new one and change it there
 
Wells seems it was the ignition module. Changed it out and actually drove the truck 25 miles with no probs. Hopefully she stays problem free for a while. Thanks again yall for the help
 
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