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'89 Blazer problems

L

Luehrs1

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OK. '89 Blazer with a 350 bored 30 over with a stroker kit.
- Cant get the timing right. Suggestions?
- The engine stutters and when gas is fully depressed the engine doesnt run
- Diagnostics say the O2 sensor is bad or the computer has a short
- Replaced O2 sensor but no change. Should i replace the computer?
- Transfer case 241C
- Broken tail shaft housing and output shaft bearing housing and GM doesnt
carry them anymore. Any suggestions?
- Transmition is a 350
- In order for it to shift i have to let off of the gas and sometimes it still
wont shift. Suggestions?

Thats all for now. I really appreciate any of the help i can get.

Luehrs1
 
sounds like you have a bad comp...

as for the tcase problems try a big local tranny shop... I dropped my blown np241 off for 100 bucks so there has to be parts available at a big shop somewhere.
 
Ok, to start with you need to have a chip burned for the stroker engine. Secondly, are you disconnecting the EST wire before you're trying to time the vehicle? About your transmission, unless someone has changed it it is a 700R4 and not a TH350. If someone did change it over to a TH350 then i would be checking for a loose or disconnected vacuum line or checking and or replacing the modulator valve.
 
Yea the prev owner put in the TH350 so ill look at those vacuum lines.

And about that chip how would i go about getting that?

Thanx
 
Diagnostics say the O2 sensor is bad or the computer has a short
Click to expand...

well if the diagnostics say the o2 is bad or the comp has a short and you replaced the o2 you might want to check it again and see what it says. The chips you can get 3 ways. 1 burn it yourself(not recommended if you haven't done this or don't know anyone who has) 2 call up somebody like jet chips or superchips and give them all the specs to your motor and they'll send it to you, 3 you can go to a local efi shop and get one burned after a couple dyno runs with an air/fuel meter. 3 is the most accurate way to do it... 1 you can get em almost ded tits if you know what your doing. 2 is the least accurate way to do it and if the chip doesn't work you have to pull it send it back and wait for another one.

I would check the comp before you spend 400 on a chip... might not need one.
 
I just redid my 241 bearing/seal, range fork, chain all for about $250...

Got my parts from www.nationaldrivetraint.com They should have anything else you should need.

You can get an exploded view of the 241C at www.motivegear.com (they are wholesale only)

The TC is all about snap rings and patience...Very easy...

The locals around here wanted $600 to $700 to rebuild one...and $300 at the wrecking yards

I replaced my 02 with a Bosch...it was bad right out of the box...got a Delco, and life was good...cost me an extra inspection fee, and I was out the cost of the piece of $hit I got from Autozone...I bad mouth Bosch at every opportunity
 
Ok. Took the computer out and it already had a modified JET chip. The car is acting like it is going off the calibration chip (it runs enough to get me home) So i was thinking of getting the original chip from Chevy then going from there. Does that sound like a good idea or should i just find a chip for it that has the specifications of my engine? Thanx.

Pat
 
when you put jet chips or hypertech or any chip that is made for a 350 on a 383 it will actually perform better with the stock computer. I know of a mechanic at my local chevy dealer who put a hypertech on a hot 383 and it killed the power. He put the stock back in and it ran considerably better than it did with the hypertech... if you want it to run like it should you need to get a custom chip fit to your cam, heads, headers, compression ratio, cid, manifold, tbi, injectors, etc. I would suggest taking it to a local efi shop with a chassis dyno and having them burn one from a couple dyno pulls. they can see exactly where your air fuel ratio is at and burn you a chip to match you setup exactly. Then you might want to invest in burning them yourself, especially if your not done modding this motor.
 
thirdgen.org in the prom and dfi forums. Don't ask questions without READING and SEARCHING, or you will get no answers at all. Just reality there. There is a tech article by TRAXXION (one X?) about PROM burning. It's really good, and will get you started. The forum search/reading will take over from there.


You ARE setting timing with the bypass wire disconnected, right? I didn't see your answer to this...it very well could be that it's way too advanced and is retarding the heck out of timing all the time.
 
yes i did disconnect the wire. but i think the tin with the timing marks is the original and not the one for the new harmonic balancer that came with the stroker kit.
 
You have to be able to get your hands on a labtop to burn your own chips... thats why i have to get mine done at a shop.
 
Not sure how you can check the timing with the tab being off, if it is.

I have never looked at my scanner, I don't believe it shows timing.

You should be able to get to 0* by hooking up a timing light to #1 plug wire, key in run, timing bypass disconnected, distributor loose, and turning distributor until the timing light fires when #1 is at TDC. That will get you close to 0*.

I have a feeling something like winALDL is going to be the only way you will see what kind of timing the engine is running if you suspect the timing tab is wrong. Won't give you base timing, but will show how bad knock is if present, (which is what advancing base timing too much will do) and what the timing is once it's running.
 
you can hook up a vac gauge and adjust timing to get the highest vacuum, then get it to drop 1 hg of vac.

Or you can use a stick on number one cylinder and crank it over and find out when the stick is out of the cylinder the highest. You will be off a couple of degrees, or try doing it a few times and get the average. Then you can mark off where 0 degrees is at.


o sensor can fail for several reasons. If you have a scantool or a scope. You can backprobe it and see what it is telling the computer.


The codes you read from the ECM are very generic. You need to do further testing.
 
Still having problems

Good news all the problems are fixed and it's running great. Ended up being a faulty fuel pump and had to tweak the timing. Thanx for all the help.

Patrick
 
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