GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Can anyone help with this problem?
CK5
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89 K5 Blazer Running Rich and Idling High
- Thread starter GalDemSuga
- Start date
getting a check engine light? Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned to run, but the engine is not started?
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Yes it does and goes out after the truck is turned on. I was just reading a post by another member regarding vaccum leaks and checked that out.
There are none visible but when I hit the base of the TBI with brake cleaner towards the radiator, it immediately sucked it into the TBI and the engine bogged for a sec.
I intend to stop at the auto store tonight and see if I can get her scanned.
Brake cleaner should make the engine pick up since it's combustible.
However, if it did suck it up, then you've got a leak. No reason to scan it, fix the leak, see if that solves it.
However, if it did suck it up, then you've got a leak. No reason to scan it, fix the leak, see if that solves it.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
I am planning on replacing the Gasket and adding a 1" spacer beneath the TBI. Still going to pull the codes to see if there are any other things that may need addressing.
Fix the leak and forget the spacer, the spacer is more hassle than it's worth. Raising the TBI changes the throw ratio of the TV cable and unless you're able to reset the TV cable correctly you will toast a trans in short order.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Not all brake cleaner is combustible. Most of the stuff I use isn't. I have seen combustible brake cleaner though.
Check the codes yourself!
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240425
Don't use brake clean, use starter fluid outside, no wind, short small spray at all possible leak spots. Before you even do this check all vacuum hose connections, tighten TBI bolts, pinch off big hose going to brake booster, clean PVC valve and shake it, listen for little rattle. Be very very very careful spraying starting fluid, if it finds a vacuum leak the motor will rev right away. But do not spray near alternator because it will flame up and go boom, so little bursts.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Yes I would definitely have to re-adjust the TV cable. I only just replaced it and the accelerator cable. I will seek the help of a trans shop with the TV cable.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
I did several better. I removed the TBI and overhauled it; new gaskets and o-rings everywhere. I put in a new crankcase breather and PCV valve, cleaned the TPS, MAP and EGR, and replaced the air filter as well as changed the motor oil.
Unfortunately, while the leak at TBI is now solved, the motor still idles high (although lower than before) and runs rich. I depressed the EGR bladder with the motor running and it hesitated for a min and I let go. I then pulled the hose from ontop of the EGR and nothing happened. No stall no nothing.
I grounded the diagnostic terminal and the only thing I'm getting is CODE 12. I'm still looking for help!
Unfortunately, while the leak at TBI is now solved, the motor still idles high (although lower than before) and runs rich. I depressed the EGR bladder with the motor running and it hesitated for a min and I let go. I then pulled the hose from ontop of the EGR and nothing happened. No stall no nothing.
I grounded the diagnostic terminal and the only thing I'm getting is CODE 12. I'm still looking for help!
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Has the minimum air set screw been tampered with? Is it still plugged or has someone removed the plug and tried to adjust the idle (minimum air setting, not idle)
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
The Idle screw is still plugged. I dont know where this air set screw is located.
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The base idle screw is located behind the plug. If the plug is still there it's doubtful that you need to mess with that screw as your problem is elsewhere usually.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
I just decided to throw some parts at her since there are no Codes. I will be replacing the IAC, EGR Vacuum Solenoid and EGR Gasket, as well as all the hoses.
Hope for the best.
Throwing parts at it is stupid. You can test and rule out every part you think is bad. Get yourself a Chilton book or something similar and start checking and ruling out parts rather than just throwing money at it. Sure once you throw enough money at it you'll eventually end up replacing the part that's giving you trouble. If you were to test each piece it will increase your knowledge on how everything works and be much more helpful to you in the future, it just takes a little time to understand what you're doing.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Awesome idea. Where can I locate said book? I would like to increase my Chevy/GM knowledge.
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just do a search online for either Chiltons or Motors manual. Either of those are a good book that will give detail on how to test each item. I'm not talking about the small generic manual for only your type vehicle, i'm talking about the thick manual that covers all kinds of vehicles within a specific year range.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Well I installed the new parts and still idles high. I got frustrated at not having any engine codes etc and removed the plug for the idle speed. I backed it out and nothing happened. Truck still continues to idle high, so I readjusted the screw back to its orginal position.
Now! I got oil leaking at the intersection of the Torque Converter and Engine. Really Blows!
There's only one more thing I can think of! Is your throttle returning all the way to the stop screw? The Minimum air screw you set back to exactly where it was before you removed the plug. Get up over the engine and look in there and you can see the metal linkage hit the other end of the screw I'm pretty sure. Once I saw one bent to raise idle to compenstae for another problem.
