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89 K5 with a 96 350 Vortec

O

omgwtf2

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Morrison, IL
Hello to all,

I recently did a swap for a 96 350 Vortec with GM TBI to Vortec intake.
Here's my setup:
Re-used all my original sensors, Headers, ECM, TB and Distributor.
Put new A/C Plat Plugs & Wire. Base timing 0 Gap 35
Started up Idled smooth gave it some gas back-fired from both ends.
raised the fuel pressure from 12 to 16 and the back-fire stoped.
Took it for a ride and it pulled strong ater about a hour I had it parked and idling the engine stumbled then 10-15 seconds later it shut off. It started right up idled fine. Took it for a ride again got up to 30 mph and she started surging and like a small rumbling back-fire from the exhaust floored it and only got worse eased off the pedal and she limped back.
Replaced the Dist Module and spark plugs changed to startard risis. gap was 35.
Tried it again but got more driving time out of it before it started the same problem.
Codes 32 EGR 44 Lean o2 the EGR is not piped yet.
The TB has the AFPR, Pod spacer and Bore ridges removed / polished.
Any Ideas?
 
chevydan3 said:
The egr sucking in clean outside air and leaning out the mixture?
Click to expand...

The vortec heads don't have a exhaust crossover. for me to use it I would have to weld/run a pipe from the rear of the header on the driver side to the front were the EGR is mounted (By the thermostat housing).
The port is plugged so when I move the EGR there is no change in RPM.
Thanks.
 
first bumping the pressure that high is dead heading the pump and causing it to pulsate, you need to swap the pump to a EP-381 pump. Also you'll need a chip burned for that motor since your heads make much more power than before.
 
xpndbl3 said:
first bumping the pressure that high is dead heading the pump and causing it to pulsate, you need to swap the pump to a EP-381 pump. Also you'll need a chip burned for that motor since your heads make much more power than before.
Click to expand...

I just ordered that pump.
Not to go off subject but while reading thru the forum I seen someone post a link for TV cable adjusting. http://www.tvmadeez.com/index.php
I did some reading on it and took the K5 out but I payed attention to the shifting while the truck was still cold there was no issue.
I was cruising around 55 once the temp got up the truck started to surge I gave it a little more gas and it got worse I then place it in "N" reved the motor fine then in "D" it started again.
So the trans is confused (Like the driver) it's does'nt know what gear to be in by refrencing the TV cable.
Weather permiting I have a TB spacer I want to install and I'll give adjusting the TV Cable a try till the pump gets here.
 
bailey9r said:
isn't 35 way too narrow? shouldn't you be around 60
Click to expand...

I searched to see what the gap was for it and yes it said 60 then alot more reading and I don't remember what site said that GM was having a problem with that and recomended to do 40 I had the ACDelco stock plat. at that and one fouled. a friend mention that I should use standard Risis. Type with the same heat range and keep the gap at 35 so that's how I got it now.
 
Made the adjustments to the TV cable now it shifts like a Cadillac no surging.(Can I use that word here
As xpndbl3 mention I'll replace the fuel pump when it arrives.

???? What should the fuel pressure be set at 16 or higher?
 
You have to read the spark plugs to see what it needs for fuel pressure. Could also be running way to rich or way too lean. We're doing a buddies truck right now and having a chip place burn him different tunes after recording data with a wideband 02 and datalogging it.
 
xpndbl3 said:
You have to read the spark plugs to see what it needs for fuel pressure. Could also be running way to rich or way too lean. We're doing a buddies truck right now and having a chip place burn him different tunes after recording data with a wideband 02 and datalogging it.
Click to expand...

I get the same codes 32 & 44 Egr and reading lean I'll hook up the EGR during spring or summer due to it being run from the back of the header and across the intake.
Thanks.
 
K85 Octane said:
is it having trouble while cold or hot?
Click to expand...

Cold start a little putt here and there. When Hot you have to feather the throttle to much it starts back firing "underload' in "N" it doesn't/ very little.
I wonder if this has a "limp" home mode ?
I do the rest like this:
I run the engine till it reaches temp 195 then shut it down disconnect the battery for a minute or two then reconnect and let idle for 10 minutes.
Take it for a ride up to 55-60 very easy on the pedal.
The SES light comes on, if I give it a little more gas it's starts to back fire.
All up to that it runs great.
Once the pump comes in I'll pop a hole thru the bed and install it see if it runs better.(Back bed panel are going to be replaced as the floor pans this summer LMC etc)
Thanks
 
omgwtf2 said:
Made the adjustments to the TV cable now it shifts like a Cadillac no surging.(Can I use that word here
As xpndbl3 mention I'll replace the fuel pump when it arrives.

???? What should the fuel pressure be set at 16 or higher?
Click to expand...

Spoke to soon on the TV cable.
But that would have to be a new thread.
 
Installed the new fuel pump, Truck wouldn't start. I can see fuel being sprayed I checked the fuel pressure it's at 18, Checked spark.. It was there.
For tickles & grins I swapped out the 6 month old MSD Coil with the old stock one.
Started right up ran smooth. Checked timing (it's at 0).
I went for a 15 mile ride. No backfiring no surging ran great. On my way back I plugged the MSD coil in just to confirm and it started back firing and running like crap.
I would have to say (For now) my problem was the MSD since the get go.
I'm glad that I replaced the fuel pump as xpndbl3 recommended doing so allowed me to replace the wiring for a more secure connection.

Thanks
 
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