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89 V2500 Burb- Camping rig

That's exactly what I was thinking on my way to work this morning. I need to check all my power feed wires to the new harness again and make sure everything is hot when it's supposed to be. I think that the wire I'm using for hot in run may not be hot when I'm cranking it. At least I hope that's all it is! Thanks for your responses
 
socoinslo said:
That's exactly what I was thinking on my way to work this morning. I need to check all my power feed wires to the new harness again and make sure everything is hot when it's supposed to be. I think that the wire I'm using for hot in run may not be hot when I'm cranking it. At least I hope that's all it is! Thanks for your responses
Click to expand...

A clip-lead can test this theory... :)
 
I tested the theory... my run power was hooked up to the old coil wire, which was staying hot during cranking. I then tried running power to the new fuse block straight from the battery for constant and run power... still no fire. I checked the pigtail to the crank position sensor and it looks good but looks may be deceiving. I'm pretty stumped. I saw this motor running the way it is "rigged" right now but can't seem to duplicate.
 
When you turn the key just to run, does the fuel pump run for a couple seconds and then shut off?
 
Yes. The pump runs and I have 58 psi at the fuel rail. I'm not sure if it turns off after a few seconds but I think so because it wouldn't keep pushing air when I bled the line.
 
Ok. I would like to know a couple things. One, does the fuel pump shut back off after a couple seconds. Two, Does the fuel pump start running again when the engine is cranking?
 
I am out of day light right now, but I am maintaining fuel pressure before during and after I try to crank it. I'm not totally sure what you're thinking but I would think that if it's a fuel delivery issue, the motor would at least almost start. Is there something else that the fuel pump running or not would signify?
 
Im thinking a couple things. First off, i want to make sure that the computer is controlling the fuel pump relay. If the computer is controlling the relay, and the relay is being triggered in run and start, then it can be surmised that the computer is wired correctly and functioning properly. If thats all true, then we can move on to other possibilities like stuck injectors (happens pretty often when these engines sit for more than a few months), or something not plugged in/swapped.
 
Ah I see... I will check the fuel pump lead tomorrow to see what exactly it is doing during the start sequence. Not sure if it matters but I did hook up the obd2 reader and the computer is commincating with it but no codes stored since it has not run.
 
Just to add quickly, I have read for sure 3 separate threads regarding a no start issue of fresh swaps where the issue was stuck injectors. In each of those occasions the solution was to either replace them or soak them in seafoam or similar for a day or so. Each one fired up instantly afterwards. So maybe forfun, you could try sspraying a dash of starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it even fires at all.
 
No spark! I guess I should have gone to the basic diagnostics sooner. Now I am not sure why I have no spark. Fuel pump is functioning properly. Any ideas??
 
Is it remotely possible that the cam sensor is unplugged? Or that the coil pack connectors are swapped left to right? I would like it if you could pull one of the coil pack connectors and test to make sure the ground is good going to them.
 
Cam shafts position sensor appears to be plugged in properly and apparent damage done during installation of the motor. I also just went and replaced the crankshaft position sensor to rule it out. What is a good way to test for ground on the coil pack connectors?
 
Well my battery is totally dead and my wife is getting impatient with me working on the truck on a Friday evening so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to keep going. Thank you so much to everyone throwing ideas out there, I really appreciate it.
 
I've had issues with a stock 5.3 having bad grounds for the coil packs. The hold down bolts need to be cleaned and I'd add a ground wire from each ( left and right bracket) side to a good ground.
 
I tested for ground at the coil pack connectors and I'm not getting any ground. I then ran a ground wire to the coil pack bracket. That grounded the coil pack bracket but I still don't have ground at the coil connectors. Wit the engine in run the coil packs should have power at the connectors correct?
 
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