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89 V2500 Burb- Camping rig

I dont quite remember how that works, but, my suspicion is that one of your grounds is not hooked up or is broken. Pretty sure the coils get there ground from the ground wire in the connector. Not from the bracket. Also, the ground that supplies ground to the coil connector i think gives ground to a few other things. So if there is no ground therre, there might not be ground to other sensors?
 
Should pin out like this.

c148oddcoilssub.jpg
 
Also, that ground isnt controlled by the computer. ITs controlled by the big eyelet. or one of them anyway.
 
Does anybody know where the two main coil harness connectors (one for the drivers side and one for the passenger side) are supposed to get grounded. Somewhere in my harness these ground wires have become disconnected. I have tried to use continuity tests to see where I am losing ground but no luck. I am considering just running new ground wire to the connectors and just tying them into the ground wires on the back of the block. I just want to make sure there isn't supposed to be some sort of switch or something that should be in line with these ground wires. I hope what I'm trying to ask makes sense.??
 
Sorry... all those posts did not show up until after I posted my previous post. Lol. The eyelet grounds are connected to the back of the block. I am only seeing two eyelet grounds but I think that I should have 3.
 
I jumped the ground wire for the coils to the chassis and the motor fired up instantly. Saweeet! Hello motivation lol
 
The ground wire for the coils should have gone to one of the eyelets on the back of the block. I'm guessing it somehow got disconnected. I am going to open up the harness and get it all wired up like its supposed to be then cleanup the other wiring. Thank you thank you thank you to everyone for bearing with my stupid Ness and giving suggestions.
 
Yes it is! It was funny cause I had been trying to start it so many times that I didn't really think it was going to start. It took me by surprise when it fired up and it scared the **** out of my wife.
 
socoinslo said:
Yes it is! It was funny cause I had been trying to start it so many times that I didn't really think it was going to start. It took me by surprise when it fired up and it scared the **** out of my wife.
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Same happened to us! Fired up when we weren't expecting it, I shut it right off. Haha!
 
socoinslo said:
Yes it is! It was funny cause I had been trying to start it so many times that I didn't really think it was going to start. It took me by surprise when it fired up and it scared the **** out of my wife.
Click to expand...

I wondered (when reading the earlier post) if that wasn't going to be how the story ended. :haha:
 
Nice project dude, that 'burb is going to be bad ass when you're done. :waytogo:

How did you wind up setting up your fuel system and evap stuff for the smog inspection? I'll be starting my own 5.3/4l80e swap in a couple of months and already have a pretty good idea what all needs to get done from other people that have done the swap out here. You're pretty close to me and we'll probably be dealing with the same refs so I'd love to hear what you've had to go through with that part of the swap and how everything turns out... :popcorn:
 
Thanks NorCalAnthony!
I have not done the ref inspection yet, but i need to by the end of next month. The way I have the fuel system is like I have seen a couple other people do it and pass the inspection: I picked up a new tank for my truck in order to safely weld in the mounting ring and vent from a newer style tank with the necessary fuel pump, tank pressure sensor and fuel level sensor ( all needed for the evap system check). Then I dropped in a newer stock fuel pump which also provided the fuel pressure I needed. If I remember right, I think the pump and tank were from a 99 suburban, which still had the return fuel system, so I still had to plumb in the pressure regulator/fuel return/fuel filter. The only reason I did not use an even newer fuel pump/tank to pull from is because they switch to Poly tanks at some point, and i didnt want to try to mount plastic to metal. For the evap system, I picked up a used canister with the vent valve and solenoid from a wrecking yard... which i still need to mount near the fuel tank somewhere and plumb up to the tank and the purge valve on the motor. Then the fuel level, fuel tank pressure, and vent solenoid need to be wired to the ecm. Now what I think might prove to be a problem for me is that I believe the evap system check needs to also know the vehicle speed so I will also need to figure that out.
Now, currently the evap system check is set to complete. This is technically not legit, but i think that it has worked in the past, but may not work anymore. I plan to get everything mounted, plumbed, and wired to work the way it is supposed to, but i might give it a shot and see if it will pass without resetting the evap system check. Otherwise I will have to send my ecm out to reset that.
Oh and one other thing that i forgot is I think that the fuel filler neck from the engine year is also required, so i plan to pick one up used and make it fit.
Another thing that I have heard, but dont understand, and hope is not true, is that the transmission that was originally mounted to the donor engine must be used.
Thats what I have going on! I am sure I left a bunch of things out! Eventually, IF I can get this thing all checked out by the ref and I have it all legal, I plan on writing up exactly what is needed. It is very difficult to figure it out because the law is very ambiguous and interpretation is essentially left up to the referee. So what might work for one person may not work for another! And all we are doing is dropping in a WAY cleaner burning engine into our vehicles!
 
I know, this state is crazy with what they require for these swaps. You’d think they’d make it easier for people that are trying to install newer, more efficient engines instead of making it so ridiculous… I’ll definitely be following along to see what all they put you through. Where were you planning on having it ref’d? I think the only one I could find nearby was over at American River College and wasn’t sure if you found any other locations. From what I’ve read, the ref inspections really aren’t all that bad depending on what area you’re in and what ref you get. Most people just go through a visual inspection to make sure you have all the miscellaneous parts in place and then get hooked up to the OBD II port to check for codes and to run through a few system checks/tests to make sure everything’s functioning like it should. I was lucky enough to buy a complete donor vehicle (’00 Yukon XL) that was totaled but still has a good drivetrain for only $1200 so I should already have almost everything I’ll need.

Sounds like you already have pretty much everything figured out but here’s some info on my plan based on my reading and a few conversations with what a few guys that have done a CA swap had recommended in case it helps with what you have left. I’ll be re-using my original tank (’89 TBI) and install a stock replacement sending unit with an EP 381 pump which should be the same pump you used for your ’99 tank. My 5.3 has the return style fuel rail so I’m going to use my K-5’s steel hard lines for feed and return and just replace the short sections of rubber hose with higher pressure rated FI hose or nylon tubing. I was just going to make a small bracket for the vapor canister, vent solenoid, and purge valve next to the tank or possibly mount them on the fuel tank skid plate up high where they hopefully won’t get hit by anything. I plan on installing an in-line tee for the fuel pressure sensor along the evap line between the sending unit and the charcoal canister. I was having a hard time figuring that one out but it was suggested by one of the guys I talked to has successfully done that on all of his swaps so I figured I would try it out.

I hadn’t heard of the fuel level sensor being part of the evap system check before. If it is maybe I’ll get lucky and be able to just splice in a wire between the sending unit and gauge and connect that to the PCM… I’ve also never heard of the fuel filler neck being an issue. At most, guys will just install a fuel cap from the newer donor vehicle to prevent a CEL that most people tune out.

I’ve heard a few people say that you have to swap in the matching tranny when swapping an engine as well but I can’t see how that would matter and when I read what little info there was on the states website they don’t mention anything about the newer transmission being a requirement. I’ve also never heard of anyone doing a CA swap and keeping the old tranny though so maybe you’ll be the first lol. I already have a 4l60e in my donor but got lucky and found a 4l80e for a few hundred bucks because the guy had seized up the engine and was parting out the rest of the ’00 Silverado 4x4 2500. I was also able to pick up an electronic speedo gauge cluster and VSS equipped NP241c from a ’90 ¾ ton Burb with a TH400 to mate up to the 4l80e so I should have everything covered on that end.

If it turns out you do need a vehicle speed signal for your swap to pass the evap check you should be able to pick up one of those transfer cases pretty easily to swap in or cannibalize parts off of. I’ve seen several ’90 & ’91 Burbs and K-5’s at the different Pick-n-Pulls around Sac over the last few months. You can also get an in-line VSS adapter from Jags That Run ($108) or Novak-Adapt ($45) or use a VSS equipped transfer case to transmission adapter that I think Advanced Adapters(?) makes. Lots of options out there just depends on which one you like best

One more thing that I learned that may or may not be of use to you is that the way the smog ref’s determine what smog and evap equipment your vehicle should have is by reading the VIN off your PCM when they hook up to the OBD II port. So if you’re having a hard time tracking down a part or figuring out how to make something work, it may be possible to flash in a different VIN from a vehicle that didn’t have whatever that is. My engine is from a ’00 Yukon XL and originally had EGR and the Air stuff which I didn’t want to keep for my swap and I was able to find the better 0411 PCM from an ’02 Silverado. The ’02 still had the return style fuel rail, cable throttle body, and red-blue connectors like my donor but didn’t have any of the EGR or Air stuff on it anymore. Of course my 5.3 will also be getting some milled 243 heads, a custom spec’d cam shaft from Tick Performance, and a mild tune but I won’t be volunteering that info to the smog ref lol.
 
Not a whole lot of progress to speak of. I have been super busy with work lately and it looks like it is going to stay that way until the end of the year. good problem to have though. I have gathered up all the parts need to get installed for the inspection of the motor swap but i have not installed anything yet. I even bit the bullet and picked up the catalytic converters which hurt the wallet. For Christmas I some how ended up with two winches and a tube bender so I got a little sidetracked from the motor swap and started making front and rear bumpers. Im definitely not very skilled in the metal fabrication department so dont judge! I do however really enjoy making things. Heres a pic of the front. I just added on to the TnA winch cradle.

20150309_180504.jpg
 
And here is the rear bumper. I am actually a little further along with it now but dont have a new pic of it.
 
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