'90 CHEVY SUBURBAN V1500 4X4 - crash81

[crash81]

well here goes nothing i have been working on this off and on for sometime but i thought posting progress pics might keep me motivated so here goes.

this is right after i got it i added tinted windows to it myself soon as i got it. no lift here.


here it is after i redone the sagging headliner




and i just took pics of it with the 6" spring front and 5" block rear lift i installed on it I'll post them as soon as i download the camera tonight.let the comments fly as i can use all help and advice i can get.

Dudley

 

[crash81]

here is a small list of done and to do things I'll be adding as we go.

90 Suburban (DD / Tow rig)
rebuild 350 (done) now a bored and decked 355
tbi mods mill, bore, polish and spacers (done)
high psi fuel pump (done)
torque step headers and 2 1/2" dual exhaust with flow masters
6" lift (done)
35x12.50x15 (done)
4.11 gears
lockers front and rear
on board air (gathering parts as we speak)


Dudley

 

[chevy wrangler]

cool

 

[crash81]

as promised here are the pics with lift installed.


side view


rear view


and a underside of bad drive shaft angel and tell me why the rear shackles are at that angle is that right?

 

[crash81]

anyone lowered there transfer case cross member to get better drive shaft angle?

 

[crash81]

well I'm in he process of ordering a rear shackle flip to get rid of the 5" blocks on the rear and also going to order his motormounts so while i was waiting i snapped a few shots of the radio and amp and speakers i put in it.





jl audio amp


4 X 10 Memphis audio speakers in factory cover


6 1/2 Memphis audio

 

[4x4_76]

Nice Suburban

If you lower the t-case, front d-shaft angle gets worse. You should turn the pinion up, towards the t-case.

 

[swedester]

where did you get those kickpanels?

 

[crash81]

they came from crutchfield. i had to do a Little modifications to get the 6 1/2 speakers to fit but it worked out great. they really helped out the sound in the front of the suburban.

Dudley

 

[throttleissues]

Careful with pointing the pinion up if it's a street driver. This also takes away caster angle unless you do a cut and turn on the inner c's. Is the driveshaft actually binding or is it just hitting the crossmember? Just a note that pointing the pinion up will cause vibration on an application that doesn't have a CV joint at the transfer case, but yours should have that in the front anyway. Dropping the t-case doesn't really help front angles since the t-case then leans farther backward.

 

[crash81]

i see what you're saying about lowering the transfer case. no the shaft is not hitting the cross member but it is close. i do get a knocking sound from the CV joint area when in 4 wheel drive and really getting on it hard but i think i can fix that by clearanceing the CV joint like i read on here somewhere. we'll see I'll try that and then hammer it and see what sounds i get.

Dudley

 

[crash81]

man its been awhile since i started this i got to get healed up and get back to work lol

 

[crash81]

well broke down and put the grill back in.

 

[crash81]

here is the updated project list

Suburban

Drivetrain
Transmission – Monster In A Box
Transfer Case Clocking Ring – DIY 4x4
Gears Front & Rear – In House
Ck on Drive Shafts – Hi-Angle Drive Line
Shocks – Bilstein 5160 Series
Brakes
Brake Line - ORD
Disk brake conversion – in house fab
Suspension
Rear Springs – ORD 6”
Engine And Plumbing
Exhaust – In House
Coolers - Summit
Filters - Summit
Comfort
Ck A/C - In House
Body
Scoop – Summit
Paint – EastWood
Carpet - LMC
Radio - Local
Bumpers – DIY 4x4
Tint – A1
Lizard Skin – EastWood

 

[crash81]

here are a few shots under the hood it is a full space.







and here is the crappy factory transfer case angle this is why i want to clock the 241 up and build new cross member.

 

[crash81]

Well here goes the weekend update, pulled all the rubber molding off the suburban and started to look it over real good and found two rust spots so here is the progress.





here it is after cutting out the rust getting ready for a patch panel.


here is the patch welded in place.


and here is thefiller to allow it to be sanded out flat and smooth.

 

[crash81]

and here it is after sanding it out. now off to the other side.