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90 K5 with injection issues...

chuggins143

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Ok, long story short... I was a free member, and had started a thread in "The Garage", but found this area, became a member and now will be moving my thread here...

Old Thread...
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246631

Basic issue..
Bought a 90 K5 and it was throwing code 44.

The O2 sensor was at some point changed to a heated unit, I have disabled the heater so it is a single wire sensor again.

I was having really erratic idle (this is happening when it's cold so the O2 sensor isn't even in the loop... and it was doing it when the O2 is unplugged), revving really high and then down to almost dieing and back up again... I unplugged the IAC and it seemed to idle fine, replaced the IAC this afternoon and it seems to idle ok.

Prior to that I have replaced the temp sensor, and rewired the O2 sensor. Was also told to check to see if the fuel filter was clogged, it was recently changed by the PO. Haven't checked the fuel pressure yet. (still can't believe GM didn't put a port on this dang thing!) but will at some point. The fuel pump doesn't sound like it's surging, but I'll still check it anyway.

Now it will idle, but has absolutly no power when I let the clutch out, just falls on its face and either dies or runs and power surges so the whole truck bounces back and forth. I've looked for wires that might be grounding when the truck surges forward or backward, but have found nothing that's grounding out. I've had other vehicles act like this if the hot wire to the coil was swinging and loosing voltage, but this is different. I can rev the motor, but it just has no power. It's like the second you start to add any kind of load to the drivetrain it looses all torque. I can rev it and stick it in low, but it'll barely pull itself in low with me slipping the clutch and revving the crap out of it. My next step is to look at the EGR valve unless someone has a better idea... ??
THANKS!
Chad
 
Ok, just went out and fired it up and it's doing the idle up and down thing still, maybe not as severe as before, not up quite as high or down as low, but still surging none the less.

I also yanked the large rubber hose that's coming from the EGR valve to the air filter housing and it's blowing air... is it supposed to do this cold? I'd think that you'd want it to warm up first, but I could be wrong on that.
Thanks!
Chad
 
EGR should be hooked up to a solenoid, one side should be vacuum from the TBI unit itself, one should be to the EGR valve. No vacuum should be on the EGR valve side at idle.
 
Good to know, I'll check! Thanks!

On a side note, I found a website that shows how to build a ALDL cable (http://winaldl.joby.se/) , so I went to Radio Smack and bought $13 worth of parts and built one only to get home and find that my laptop doesn't have a serial port! GRRRR! ...anyone used one with a USB to serial adapter??
Thanks!
C
 
Well, I broke down and ordered a ALDL cable with the USB plug on it. I'll report on it's usage and such this weekend.
Thanks,
Chad
 
I also yanked the large rubber hose that's coming from the EGR valve to the air filter housing and it's blowing air... is it supposed to do this cold? I'd think that you'd want it to warm up first, but I could be wrong on that.
Thanks!
Chad
There's no large rubber hose from the EGR to the air filter housing? Maybe a picture of what your talking about will help... the only large rubber hose from the air filter should be to the valve cover and it is a vent for the PCV. If it's blowing air it could be blow by (pistons/rings worn)

Problems in driveability your describing are usually low fuel pressure or vacuum leak...

If you get a serial to USB adapter I have the correct drivers windows will need to make it work. But the USB cable will be easier. WinALDL shows pretty good data for diagnostics.
 
I'll see about taking a pic of what I'm talking about, all I know is that's how it was hooked up when I got it.

I picked up a new TBI base gasket today at lunch.. a whole $4, I haven't looked at the one that's on there, but now I have one if it needs it.

Yeah, I just bought the USB cable. Figured that I'd spend way more than that cable cost to try to get the other working and futsing around with adapters on adapters and such. I'm going to try to get around to hooking it up tonight and will report.
Thanks,
Chad
 
hmm, yeah... there will be no taking it to a shop, I'm on a mission now! It gets fixed or it gets burned to the ground where it sits!!! :D

Didn't get time to hook up the USB ALDL cable this weekend. Ended up tearing the suspension out of my crawler to replace all of the springs with more flexy'r springs... I've broken main leaves in the front of my rig the last two times I've gone out, time for a change! Almost got the front done yesterday and today, just need to fab up some new front shackles and the front will be mostly done... but I digress.
More later,
C
 
Ok, I went out and hooked up the data cable and finally got it to pull data with WinALDL (latest version). The dash doesn't work, and the data flowing is only on the first few lines. Once I got it hot then I'd occasionally get a reading from further down the Raw Data list, but mostly I only got data from the first 3-4 lines. None of the other tabs will give me anything. Any thoughts?? Also, anyone got a list of what all the readings are on the WinALDL raw data screen???

I still haven't installed the new O2 sensor, but since it's doing it cold that's probably not it... I did test the new one on the bench and it works fine.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the throttle body and got no response, so I'm gonna say that the seal is fine.

I'm guessing that the PO installed a new TPS, but don't know if he adjusted it correctly... I'm assuming it needs to be adjusted in some manner. Anyone got some directions as to how to do that?

While I'm on the subject, is there a procedure for installing the IAC... I only ask because I just installed it and plugged it in.

Thanks for any ideas!:bow::bow:
Chad
 
Last edited:
Yep, went to Jonas's site and verified that I was using the correct setting... so unless the PO put in a different computer it should be right.
 
Did you buy from ALDLcable.com ? If so read all the directions that come on the CD. There are many adjustments to your computer that may be necessary.

ALDL USB Cable Instructions​
This package includes an ALDL USB Cable, a
CD ROM with drivers and ALDL software, and
this instruction sheet.. This cable is intended to
be used with cars and trucks using GM
ECM/PCM's originally equipped with 12 pin
ALDL connectors in the 1982 to 1995 era. For
more detailed information on any aspect of this
cable, you can read information from our
website at​
www.aldlcable.com

Quick Start Instructions:​
1. Boot up your PC or Laptop and insert the
provided CD-ROM
2. Plug the ALDL-USB cable into one of the
open USB ports on your PC
3. At this point Windows will detect the new
device and ask you to browse the CD-ROM
drive for the driver. The drivers are located in
the FT232R directory. Choose the correct
operating system folder for your computer
and click OK, then allow the system to
completely install the drivers.
4. After driver installation, open your Windows
System Control Panel and choose the
Hardware Device Manager. Expand the
Ports (COM & LPT) item and look at the
Properties for the USB Serial port and note
which COM port has been assigned to the
unit. You will need to tell the diagnostic
software package you select which COM
port is being used by the ALDL-USB
5. Plug the 12-Pin ALDL cable into your
vehicle’s ALDL port and turn your ignition
key forward to light up the dash. You are
now ready to collect data.
The COM port used will be the first available
COM port, usually COM3, but occasionally it will
be a COM port above COM4. Some ALDL
Diagnostic programs will not work above COM4,
so you may have to select a diagnostics
software package that allows operation above
COM4. If you need to operate on COM3 or
COM4, uninstall devices that are currently using
COM3 or COM4. Next, uninstall the ALDL-USB
driver that is using a high port number then
reinstall the ALDL USB driver to use COM3 or
COM4
The ALDL connector has 12 pins in it, of which
only 2 are wired for use in this cable. Serial data
only flows through one of these pins from your
ECM/PCM to your PC computer. Generally GM
cars that use pin E are communicating at 160
baud speed, and the cars using pin M are
communicating at 8192 baud. The pin locations
are labeled inside of the 12 pin connector shell.
Pin M and pin E of our cables are jumpered
together inside the connector shell and go to the
same spot in the circuit. Again, you are only
using one of these pins to read data, so only one
of these pin locations will be populated on your
vehicle. We jumper these 2 pins together so
that this cable will work for any 1982 to 1995 era
car, regardless of the pin layout in the car.
IF YOU HAVE some other make of car that uses
a GM ECM/PCM, such as Lotus, that uses a
different connector type or certain mid-80s cars
that use Pin D of the ALDL connector, the pin
location will probably be different (see​
for a list of
vehicles which may use pin D). You should buy
the Bare Pin Cable from our web site so you
could plug it in to one of these different shaped
connectors or the data line on any ALDL
compatible vehicle.
A 10Kohm resistor is included on the circuit
board. This resistor is needed to jumper
between the A and B pin locations for some late
1980's cars in order for the ALDL diagnostic
data to start flowing (see the R3 section at

). If you do not
need this resistor for your vehicle, you can leave
it in the normal position as indicated below.
If there is any question of whether or not your
car needs this 10Kohm resistor, try it in the
normal position first to see if data starts flowing.
You can see a list of software packages
available for your diagnostic needs on our home
page at
www.aldlcable.com or on the CD-ROM
included in this package
To use this cable, plug the 2 ends in and start up
your laptop and start whatever data collection or
tuning program software you use, and turn the
car key forward ( but car not running ) to light up
the dash, and start the data stream flowing.
Click the record button in the software package
to start logging data. You can then start the car
and drive around logging data. View data later
on to see and review results.

Trouble shooting​
: If all the cables are
connected properly but you are still not seeing
data, there are a number of things to check.
When testing any cable, simply plug the USB
cable into your Laptop or PC, and then plug the
12-Pin ALDL connector into your vehicle. Start
up the HyperTerminal program (usually under
Start > Programs > Accessories), select the
COM port the USB cable was installed on
(usually COM3, see above), and select a baud
rate close to the ECM's (for either a 160 or 8192
baud, chose either 2400 or 9600, respectively).
As soon as you turn the car key forward to light
up the dash, but car not running, data patterns
start to stream across the HyperTerminal
screen. At that point you know that proper
communication is happening between your
vehicles ECM and your laptop, and any data
logging program should work.
If you are still having problems after this
HyperTerminal test, check under the device
manager of the system control panel on your PC
to make sure your virtual COM port is active and
has not been disabled. If you don't see any
virtual COM ports enabled, or see red Xs or
yellow circles, then you may need to reinstall the
driver. Begin be removing the virtual com port
that is there and also removing the USB device
further down the screen
If you have a 1996 or later vehicle that has a 16
pin connector, it is an OBD2 compliant vehicle
and requires a completely different type of scan
tool and software. Please see

www.obd2allinone.com to purchase.
 
Yep, pretty much all of that came printed on the sheet I was using to get it running... The only thing I didn't change was baud rate, I was assuming it was using the slower rate, but I'll change it and see if that does anything.
THX
C
 
Ok, so I got somewhat motivated today and built myself a pressure tap that I can install next to the fuel filter.... Basically took a 3/8 flare tee and cut the side port off. Drilled and tapped the hole to fit the 1/8 NPT fitting, and then soldered the two together... Install pics to follow!

Fuel1.JPG

Fuel2.JPG

Fuel3.JPG

Fuel4.JPG

Fuel5.JPG
 
Before I get all motivated and go out and take the fuel filter loose... is there a "anti-siphon" type deal on the system? ...or will it sit there and siphon all the gas out of my tank if I don't get it hooked back up quick? Just thought I'd ask before running gas down the street.
:D
 
Mine leaked out constantly from the fuel filter when I forgot to tighten it up...made a nice soft spot in my asphalt lol.
 
Ok, good to know.... I figured that it'd leak, but didn't know how much would pull through the pump.
Thanks!
C
 
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