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'91 K5 - 700R4 Tranny will not shift up, only have 1st and reverse - UPDATE: TV issue

.... All shift points are done with spacer plate/valve body.

Shift firmness sure but shift points are from a combination of T.V. and governor pressure.

He's my $0.02. Replace cable and T.V. plunger/sleeve in the valve body. More than likely that is what is sticking. Should be stamped "94" on the end. Avoid "93". Sonnax makes a "hi-performance" one for another option.
 
........ :) I realize with a replacement governor the shift points could be "off" slightly compared to the one that has been riding in the trans for a while, any kind of pre-installation adjustment aside from making sure the teeth are good and the springs/weighs look OK?

As long as it was for your vehicle (ie: they didn't give you one for a diesel or a 4cyl), give it a little prelube and it should be good to go. You can get adjustable ones with different springs to fine tune it to your liking too.
 
Shift firmness sure but shift points are from a combination of T.V. and governor pressure.

He's my $0.02. Replace cable and T.V. plunger/sleeve in the valve body. More than likely that is what is sticking. Should be stamped "94" on the end. Avoid "93". Sonnax makes a "hi-performance" one for another option.


Is this something that is do-able for a novice? I've replaced the governor, which wasn't too bad since I had lots of clearance to get at the cover.

I haven't yet dropped the tranny pan, but it is easily within reach. Got to do a lot of pre-cleaning all around the tranny first to make sure there is no contamination. Would I need to watch for the check balls falling out into the pan?

The cable looks easy enough to swap, based on good illustrations found here and linked to elsewhere. Not sure yet about the actual valve assembly.

As a side-question, do any of you recommend better fluid than standard Dex-II/III for a tranny this old? Didn't know if they had a premium brand of ATF that anybody would recommend. I'd pay the extra if it was worth it.
 
Rebuild it!

I'd recommend getting your existing tranny rebuilt. At least you know where it's been.

A Friend of mine just had the exact same problem. It was caused by a broken clip inside the tranny. Something to do with the connection between 1st and 2nd. He got his 700R4 rebuilt with the addition of a shift kit for $350.
 
I'd recommend getting your existing tranny rebuilt. At least you know where it's been.

A Friend of mine just had the exact same problem. It was caused by a broken clip inside the tranny. Something to do with the connection between 1st and 2nd. He got his 700R4 rebuilt with the addition of a shift kit for $350.

were you referring to my latest post or the post about smitty's mufflers? When I left that post I was considering a diff tranny before I leared more about this T.V. cable and how supremely important it is to the workings of my 700R4. Figured my tranny was hzoed back in May. Now I have hope that I can keep it.

I've been driving about 70mi each day the last few, to work and back to get a feel for how the tranny is running now. I've been driving late model Buick Lesabres the last few months so I was totally out of sync when I hopped back into a full size truck! :wink1:
 
If your TV sticks, you need to do something about it. I would try lubing and/or replacing the cable to see if that does it. If the problem is internal, check and see if there is junk in your fluid. If a part is wearing, it can throw off shavings which will stick the valves up. The TV is the first to stick because the inner-most valve in that assembly is free floating (no springs).

There are ways to address this, but that is getting ahead of the game.
 
Also, they are plug and play. All shift points are done with spacer plate/valve body.
There were different governors for different vehicles. The springs/weights set the differences in shift points between those vehicles. The diesel trucks got heavier weights to lower the shift points and Corvette/Camaro got smaller weights to shift higher up. You can also buy kits to tune them. So it is important to get the right governor for your application.
 
There were different governors for different vehicles. The springs/weights set the differences in shift points between those vehicles. The diesel trucks got heavier weights to lower the shift points and Corvette/Camaro got smaller weights to shift higher up. You can also buy kits to tune them. So it is important to get the right governor for your application.

See post 21 and 22 ;)

Is this something that is do-able for a novice? I've replaced the governor, which wasn't too bad since I had lots of clearance to get at the cover.

I haven't yet dropped the tranny pan, but it is easily within reach. Got to do a lot of pre-cleaning all around the tranny first to make sure there is no contamination. Would I need to watch for the check balls falling out into the pan?

The cable looks easy enough to swap, based on good illustrations found here and linked to elsewhere. Not sure yet about the actual valve assembly.

As a side-question, do any of you recommend better fluid than standard Dex-II/III for a tranny this old? Didn't know if they had a premium brand of ATF that anybody would recommend. I'd pay the extra if it was worth it.

The cable is very easy to swap. You don't have to worry about check balls if your just dropping the pan. Once the pan is off you can see how easy it is. The TV valve is retained by a roll pin, you may be able to replace it without removing the valve body. I have a spare 700 in the garage, I'll try to remove it leaving the VB in place and see if it's possible. Never tried it with the VB on. Been working on 4L60E's so I can't remember if it's even possible. I know it has the TV valve linkage bracket bolted over it. I'll let you know. Any Dex III is fine, don't waste your money on good advertised synthetics. I'm running TCI's Max Shift fluid cause I got it free with torque converter. But it's not synthetic. Dex VI is the only "upgrade" if you can find it.
TV valve Jeff at Procare is good people.
 
how does one remove a roller pin in that tight of a space?

Thanks for the link for the "94".

Once I have this tranny under control I need to start replacing parts of the electrical. 20 years of outdoors has not been kind to most of the wires underneath.
 
Once your in there. Unbolt the linkage bracket and I think the roll pin is underneath it. Haven't gone out to the garage yet. To remove it, I wedge a small needle file in, twist and pull. Take note on how it comes out. If you can wait a little bit I'll take some pictures. May be tomorrow though.
 
Once your in there. Unbolt the linkage bracket and I think the roll pin is underneath it. Haven't gone out to the garage yet. To remove it, I wedge a small needle file in, twist and pull. Take note on how it comes out. If you can wait a little bit I'll take some pictures. May be tomorrow though.

That would be FANTASTIC my friend. I appreciate the effort for your fellow man! :bow:
 
Ok to replace T.V. valve first remove bracket bolted on it covering the roll pin.

The roll pin will stick up a little bit so it's easy to remove the roll pin by twisting and pulling.
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When reinstalling make sure the spring sits in the pocket and not hung on the side.
 
You can see the slot must be lined up right for the roll pin to go back in. I took the pictures as you would see it from underneath. The valve body does not have to be removed. Good luck.
 
Impossible. The reactions sun shell is meshed to the rev. input drum and then splined to the reaction carrier sun gear. They always break at the splines or strip out at the splines. The 2-4 band clamps and holds the reverse input housing from spinning. It is all splined/meshed together. You lose the sun shell it is impossible to have any one of the gears.




Apparently the stock sun shells are junk... they machined them too skinny around where the splines meet the rest of the shell.
 
Impossible. The reactions sun shell is meshed to the rev. input drum and then splined to the reaction carrier sun gear. They always break at the splines or strip out at the splines. The 2-4 band clamps and holds the reverse input housing from spinning. It is all splined/meshed together. You lose the sun shell it is impossible to have any one of the gears.

You only lose R, 2, and 4.



Apparently the stock sun shells are junk... they machined them too skinny around where the splines meet the rest of the shell.

Yep, I've broke one.
 
My brother just broke one.... we just got his tranny back in a couple weeks ago. I couldn't believe that thing broke... don't know wtf gm was thinking.

And yes.... he did have 1st gear when his went.
 
You can see the slot must be lined up right for the roll pin to go back in. I took the pictures as you would see it from underneath. The valve body does not have to be removed. Good luck.

Thanks for the great pics. Something like this needs to be placed in a HOWTO section for others to view.

Good to know that I won't have to remove the valve body to check on all of this. Taking the pan off for a tranny n00b is scary enough.

I have the link for the "94" sonnax TV kit, would you have any recommendations on where I should pick up a replacement TV cable assembly? If we're going to work on the valve, I'd prefer to have a new cable too.
 
so the bracket that is covering the plunger, found a pic online for this.

by pulling on the cable at the TB, that releases pressure on the plunger, which in turn relaxes the spring and allows the actual TV valve to move forward (toward the front of the vehicle).

gosh, I wonder how long they expected that spring to actually hold up? expecially if the vehicle had been sitting for some time.

tv-bracket.jpg

tv-bracket.jpg
 
Cable attaches to the case here. Only one little bolt.
Ck5cable.jpg




Inside, the cable simply hooks to the bracket. When you're in there you will see exactly how it works.

ck5plunger.jpg
 

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